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Found some pics of my truck, it's not as I remember it but not bad for a 10 year old? I may have been younger? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

No I want Gary spotter and the fat bird stoned signed by stevie wonder lol

Meerkat for sale lol http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/182887-harrods-meerkat/

Here's my old one with a CRT.5 wing And in orange to match the springs

I just did a deal for this:

So after a trip up to the lakes... and back, I finally have a Baja. I think just about every part has been changed on it! - Everything is modded lol.. so 6hrs driving later............. RPM arms all round, Savox servo's on both.. Nice Baja.

tamiya tb02 drifter brushless kit nanotech 2s 5800 lipo losi 2.4 radio some spares all in great condition runs great price

If you import items from outside the EU the Tax man wants his cut as he missed out by you not buying from the UK. Depending on the item you may be charged a combination of import duty and/or VAT. Items valued at less than $15 (including postage) are allowed in with no charge. Anything over that *may* be charged, although it's not guaranteed. You may get lucky and have lots of items allowed in with no charge, or you may get unlucky and everything gets charged. I, for instance, have never not been charged for something from the USA, but almost never get charged for items from China/Hong Kong. You can get an idea of what sort of import charge to expect here: http://www.dutycalculator.com/ You should also budget for being charged a flat

Ohhhhh I like bikes lol dispite my slender figure lol pm me bill

Don't think engine had it,be something with fual,by the sound of it. Goldman

Jas, this is the shell I was thinking about getting for the xray before I sold it: http://www.kamtec.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=390&category_id=34&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53&vmcchk=1&Itemid=53 Might need a bit of butchery and bodgery but I thought it might work.

Thats right mate lol they on ebay for about 70 quid so hes a bargain

Still going after many hours of stick from the kids

I currently have both. I got to admit both WERE VXL. Both had the VXL system taken out as its rubbish and both are now brushed. IMO the Summit is a much better little truck than the Merv but thats probably more to do with where I mainly run. The brushless system is too much for these little things unless you are into speed runs, they break far to easily at the speeds that the VXL propels them to and this is why they become expensive. Merv now has a 19T brushed motor with a center diff in it and the summit has locked diffs and runs a 55T motor. I still use the Summit more than the Merv though as its great fun off road even as a crawler due to it being small and EVERYTHING can be used as an obstical.

Got loads mate pm me and I will sort summit out with yah cheers

Haha cheers mate sounds like a best get it collected ASAP

personally if your using the kit shocks, about 3/4 full of 30wt oil will do the job nicely. with some added weight in the wheels it will improve articulation no end as for weight, the "norm" is 200 to 400g in each front wheel and 100 to around 250g in each rear but..... this is a very personal thing, i run 400g in each front an 300g in each rear on my d90, it keeps the wheels planted and articulates just fine and the big winner is it keeps the heavy shell stable, its rare that it does topple over but they cant withstand the odd ooops moment. have you seen the new cab for the honcho cage, cant for the life of me remember where it was or what it was but i think it was a 650 raptor like the sc trucks, looks great too

coming together nicely!

I'd be up for racing if it wasn't taken so seriously.

Another WR8 owner here. Found an awesome deal on a secondhand one with a lot of spares (Enough to build a second car). Didn't like the Abu Dhabi livery in combination with the color so i removed it. Still don't like the color but atleast it looks better now Can't wait to test it on Tuesday on our 'track'.

thanks for the info. im gonna see if i can source the battery tray and work from there

Alittle late but wow your ram looks nice i love it theres 2 in 1 ad on ebay im watching but im not sure yet. The flaming gear cover you have looks very cool too I dont really know much about lst type trucks so dont really see the extent to the upgrades but I imagine its fully loaded. Its a shame your having so many issues with escs ide be gutted as you said bl is ment to be effortless but suppose when you get to that level of elecs a 1000 more variables come to play. A stock 2s set up still baffles me lol. Ill stick with nitro for awhile longer.

Could just get a pinny for now and get a spur gear at a later date. Will defiantly help with more top speed. http://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-1.0-module-pinion-19-teeth-for-5mm-shaft/rc-car-products/34370 Don't forget to lock tite it and leave over night.

Thes 2 in north shields

Liking that shot. Looks very promo style. I'll get some of you in action at the end of the month. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheeky one of my FS01.

How does one upgrade from a Baja to a Baja? Sorry to nit pick but that bugs me, just because it's not made by HPI, doesn't mean it's not a Baja, it still is, same with KM and all the rest of them... Still Baja 5B's, just not HPI's

Well, all I can say is 2650kv and the wpsc8 on 3s works perfectly for me...but what do I know lolol

12 hours, good going indeed... There are a lot of quality sets out there.... Just got to watch pricing on the bay, as we've seen sets go for ridiculous money. I'm not against buying a set with 'substitute' pieces in, then rooting through our own box for the right parts, and, if we don't have them, buy in. My only gripe is cleaning the sets when they arrive...some have been truly minging in terms of dust and children's finger muck lololol. I want the big crane now....damn you!!!!

that motor 'cba' xD Great build though whats wrong with the purple motor plate?

On my slash 2wd, I just ziptied the shocks down to limit the movement on tarmac and took them off for the rough stuff

Anyone else wish this was a kit?

ive done the 8ight tekno scene with my old buggy, looks amazing mate but i didnt like the way the hinge pin holders were on it, there much much stronger when you can put a nut on the end of the hinge pin, as i managed to send my hinge pins through the holders which was an expensive replacement... appears that durango is the same but my god its gorgeous, need something strong is the issue, im not sure that durango is up to the jumps i like doing

will do matey

Yep I thought that as I was posting it! Tbh I tried a used roller & after I'd have finished with it it'd be a whole new car & I'd have the original now in a spares box! So I sold it on & planned on the platinum, but if you say it's a good deal then that's good enough for me nitro! Now my next question is on wheels, I like the pro line trenches but I'd like them as small as possible to keep it slash like rather than monster truck like if you know what I mean, so what sizes are stock wheels & tyres? Cheers for the help guys.

To be honest...it's a good deal. You are getting a brand new car with RPM upgrades and heavier springs. Add in the cost of the motor/ESC combo, wheels and shell, and it's pretty close to the cost of a new stocker. Only you got RPM parts, a wterproof ESC that isn't a Velineon, and you get to choose your own shell. You are not going to get a massive bargain, but if it's what you want...then it's a viable option. The alternative is to get a used roller, and overhaul it. That's what I would do

This thing isn't going to be any heavier than a 1/10th buggy and they have plenty of 'umph' with a 2 pole 540 sized motor. But it does need to be a good one - which the one supplied won't be.

Cheers for all the kind words on the build Just fired her up on a old 3s I have, all good and no smoke but the centre drive sounds a bit rough, but thats a job for tomorrow

Maybe you could get a cheap roller and you can gradually build it up in bits over time. Hard to imagine you'll get anything but a jalopy for

any details of how to get to the wick bash site ? and what type of car do most people bash with ?

Funny thing to my post back in 2010. I own a Baja 5B now & plan on getting this chassis!

that looks loads better mate search "bender customs axial 4 link servo mount" or similar on evil bay, strc do a good one too and solve all your issues and get rid of a real weak point on your truck

Just an update, And info about the "Other Proceedure" of fitting the Tray where you can keep the use of the 52T spur if you wish, That opens up the Lower range of gearing for the Hyper ST with this Style of conversion. These screw Positions on the Battery Tray Line up with these positions on the Chassis Plate With no mods at all. And can be used for Securely holding down the Battery tray 100% still and secure so it can't shift at all while you mark out the other drilling points with a small drill bit (Carefull to mark with the drill straight as possible, and avoid any angle) through the holes in the battery tray you drilled earlier..... These "No mods required" screw points from both ways of converting the tray, Can even be used for a Low strength purely for gentle testing battery tray fitting, so you can do a little testing with Both ways before you commit to one or the Other..... Avoid jumping or crashing though.... And the Liberal use of Cable Ties to help secure them to the Chassis and reduce stress on the limited screws while you test is reccomended.... Heres a pic hinting at the one additional mod that you may have to do with this new method.... That will Likely involve dremeling away some of the sunken portion of the engine mount screw point, In order to then be able to screw an Engine mount screw into the tray through this less than perfect screw Position on the chassis. As you can see, you will have to just grind away alittle and the M4 Should Work perfectly into the Hole visable in the Tray through the Engine mount hole on the Chassis. If you are a fan of overkill, Theres also a battery tray screw post underneath the clear area on the chassis between the Fore and Aft engine mount screw positions. Which Could in theory be drilled through the chassis to, and countersinked, Similar to how you are going to do the single M4 at the Front end of the battery tray anyway..... If your not confident enough yet to attempt this slightly trickier method... (but still easy, even for me when I was starting out) You only need to spend a Tenner or so on a Hyper 7 Diff from Ebay, and use the Slightly easier Original method and plan your Gearing appropriately to compensate... Good luck to anyone who fancies Brushless converting A Hyper St Or ST Pro via either of these methods, And as Always I'm happy to help with any individual Problems you may have :-) And if you Live anywhere round Penmaenmawr In North wales I'll happily Help out in brushless converting yours personally X-)