HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!

[everclear1984]

I hit the ramp for the first time with the Trophy today, now that I've added an extra rear anti bend rod end captured them with a nut on top it takes the hits like a champ!

 

 

Video footage coming soon

[everclear1984]

As promised

 

 

(I thought I'd posted this here earlier but must have put it in the wrong thread)

[dazp1976]

6 hours ago, everclear1984 said:

As promised

 

(I thought I'd posted this here earlier but must have put it in the wrong thread)

Nice ramp  

[dazp1976]

Got my tin of liquid elec tape or plastidip today so hopefully get round to coating my esc circuit board soon, prob cock it up

Serviced most of the Truggy now (the one with the big bores), swapped the Leopard 1600kv 4082 out for a skyrc 1550kv 4074 to see if my front lifting problems are to do with too much torque and not the BB shocks.

Thought I'd try 8 hole 1.2 pistons this time but it's gone really soft now, will need some major oil in those with them pistons but I think I'll run it like it to start with and work up. It will hit the ground hard tho. If it still does the lifting thing the shocks are off!!! Done my head in for ages, can't steer the damn thing and blows front tyres. Haven't had any handling problems with stock shocks but I bend shafts all the time and that in itself is a bigger p.i.t.a.

Might actually get it out by the time the clocks change.

 

[pug=309]

Blimey, you got that thing pretty high, i didnt realise that electric rc's were that noisy.

 

 

Superb ramp

 

 

Allan

[everclear1984]

The spur and pinion are metal-on-metal, plastic spurs are much quieter.

[andy_m]

Been "tweaking" my Trophy...

 

I have come to dislike the e-clips holding the suspension shafts in place as I find them just too fiddly for my liking:-

 

 

And on my last bashing session one of them fell off.

 

So I have replaced them with  a stainless steel cap head screw:-

 

 

As well as that, I decided to replace the stock bolts that came with my new Big Bore shocks because I felt that the nyloc nut hardly gripped any thread:-

 

 

So they now look like this :-

 

 

Perhaps too much thread showing now and I may crop them down a bit later, but they'll do for now.

[dazp1976]

18 minutes ago, andy_m said:

Been "tweaking" my Trophy...

 

I have come to dislike the e-clips holding the suspension shafts in place as I find them just too fiddly for my liking:-

 

And on my last bashing session one of them fell off.

 

So I have replaced them with  a stainless steel cap head screw:-

 

As well as that, I decided to replace the stock bolts that came with my new Big Bore shocks because I felt that the nyloc nut hardly gripped any thread:-

 

So they now look like this :-

 

Perhaps too much thread showing now and I may crop them down a bit later, but they'll do for now.

Hopefully those front steering arms go the distance as you've already sussed the short bolt length.

 

Those are the longer standoffs, that's why the bolt was too short needed the M3x25mm. I had those with my sets too so got the shorter ones off the Vorza as well which also look a bit tidier.

Those e-clips are the bane of my existence also  

 

A little info.

On 1/26/2016 at 13:41, everclear1984 said:

E-clips Front lower and I think the rear lower is missing one too. I'll get a pack of each, thanks.

Bolt on jobbies.

Front + rear 4mm inner proper job 109848 (uses 3mm nut)

Rear outer 3mm proper job: 68184 or Hobao 3x50 H90028 (uses 3mm nut)

Front outer nothing with good availability.

 

For nut and bolt mod minimum lengths required, longer can always be cut with dremmel.

Front + rear 4mm inner: M4 x 80mm + M4 nut

Rear outer: M3 x 50mm + M3 nut

Front outer: M3 x 40mm + M3 nut

Edited March 12, 2016 by dazp1976

[andy_m]

Hi Daz,

 

The stock bolts, by that I meant the replacement bolts that came with the Big Bores, were M3 x 25 long and I replaced them with M3 x 30 long St.St.

 

I was a bit disappointed with HPI for providing bolts that were too short.

 

For the outer pins, front and rear, I used M3 x 50 long St.St. bolts

 

I've also bought some M4 x 80 long black bolts for the inner shafts but I hardly ever remove them so I'm going to hold off changing them over until I need to

 

I'm currently getting all my fasteners from http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/ and they work out cheaper for what I'm doing

 

 

 

[dazp1976]

3 minutes ago, andy_m said:

Hi Daz,

 

The stock bolts, by that I meant the replacement bolts that came with the Big Bores, were M3 x 25 long and I replaced them with M3 x 30 long St.St.

 

I was a bit disappointed with HPI for providing bolts that were too short.

 

For the outer pins, front and rear, I used M3 x 50 long St.St. bolts

 

I've also bought some M4 x 80 long black bolts for the inner shafts but I hardly ever remove them so I'm going to hold off changing them over until I need to

 

I'm currently getting all my fasteners from http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/ and they work out cheaper for what I'm doing

 

 

 

Sussing a few things out 

I use Boltbase on Ebay mostly and buy various sizes in packs of 50. I get the longest bolt the car uses in each size and head type say M3x20 countersunk and cut them down with the Dremmel if I need a shorter one. 

Modelfixings prices are pretty good and have a few unusual sizes I could do with.

I stick with Tensile these days.

[everclear1984]

Can anyone give me a rough value on this, assuming all diffs are present and correct, etc.

 

Edited March 12, 2016 by everclear1984

[crazyfrog]

8 hours ago, everclear1984 said:

Can anyone give me a rough value on this, assuming all diffs are present and correct, etc.

 

About £60 to the right buyer it's missing a ton of parts though. 

Bodyshell £20

rear shocks £18

rear hub £7

rear driveshafts £7

front cvds £26

Force engine £60 +parts

Exhaust manifold £15

Other brand wheels £12 

 

[crazyfrog]

On 3 February 2016 at 08:27, pug=309 said:

 

 

That is the way to do it,   sod cleaning that up though

 

 

 

 

Allan

Omg get an air compressor it throws off all the soft stuff in the suspension arms so you only need to wipe over the smooth surfaces

[dazp1976]

6 minutes ago, crazyfrog said:

About £60 to the right buyer it's missing a ton of parts though. 

Bodyshell £20

rear shocks £18

rear hub £7

rear driveshafts £7

front cvds £26

Force engine £60 +parts

Exhaust manifold £15

Other brand wheels £12 

 

Where you been buying your bits from?

I haven't got much left now but for example:

Fr cvd pair £18

Rear shocks £14.75

Full engine mounts + fixings £10

Chassis plate + guards + f/r braces £25

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/maybee_baybee/m.html?item=191804470349&ssPageName=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

[everclear1984]

Thanks, I'm not looking to get it running, I'll be stripping it to use what I need and sell what I don't. I'll post a sale ad tomorrow but if anyone sees something they need in the meantime make me an offer

[Sully]

I've generally strip mine down and clean it mainly because I've gone a bit to hard a broken something

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bertberr]

18 hours ago, dazp1976 said:

Sussing a few things out 

I use Boltbase on Ebay mostly and buy various sizes in packs of 50. I get the longest bolt the car uses in each size and head type say M3x20 countersunk and cut them down with the Dremmel if I need a shorter one. 

Modelfixings prices are pretty good and have a few unusual sizes I could do with.

I stick with Tensile these days.

Tell me, re inner / outer arm shafts is it important to have smooth (non threaded) shanks or would any high tensile bolt the right size work? I want to change all my e-clip shafts on my Hyper 7 but the Hobao parts are a tenner and not easy to source, so I was thinking just buy some HT steel button head bolts in M3/4 from local fastenings store and cut em down to size. Would the arm still pivot freely enough though with threaded bolts?

[everclear1984]

I'm running threaded bolts on mine, no issues so far

[andy_m]

3 hours ago, bertberr said:

Tell me, re inner / outer arm shafts is it important to have smooth (non threaded) shanks or would any high tensile bolt the right size work? I want to change all my e-clip shafts on my Hyper 7 but the Hobao parts are a tenner and not easy to source, so I was thinking just buy some HT steel button head bolts in M3/4 from local fastenings store and cut em down to size. Would the arm still pivot freely enough though with threaded bolts?

 

See my post above about this very subject:-

 

I would have preferred to have had a smooth shank with just the very last bit threaded, but I am with everclear here and I'm not having any issues so far.

 

You could, if you wish, go for a much longer bolt so that most of the shank is smooth and then crop of what thread you do not need.

 

And don't forget the lock nuts... I only tighten mine enough so that the screw can still freely rotate.

[andy_m]

I was cleaning my car this morning... Nothing major... Just removing grass from the shafts.

 

While I was at it I checked some of the screws for tightness and one of the lower screws in the steering arm was loose but still in place.

 

I had used Loctite 248 in the thread so it hadn't worked in this instance, although the screw in the other steering arm was still tight.

 

So, I took this as an opportunity to try out some new M4 x 12 long screws and 4mm spring washers that I had ordered from http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/

 

The stock screw is an M4 x 10 long, but, as I have said elsewhere, the screw stops at least 1mm inside the steering arm casting and I partly blame that for recent problems with thread stripping.

 

Here's the new screw on the left and the stock screw on the right:-

 

 

And here is the old screw in the steering arm, tightened up to the collar:-

 

 

As you can see, there is still at least a millimetre of thread left to use in the steering arm casting.

 

This shows the new screw assembled but not tightened and you can see the collar and spring washer:-

 

 

And this is tightened up:-

 

 

This is looking inside the steering arm and you can see that pretty much all of the thread is used but the top of the screw does not intrude into where the shaft will be:-

 

 

I'm a lot happier now that I have sussed this little problem out although it remains to be seen if it stops the thread stripping problem. And I'm not likely to find out any time soon having splashed out £50 on a pair of billet steering arms.

 

I'm also not sure how well the spring washer will work. For now, on the side that I have installed the above, I am seeing how things fair without the thread lock. I've got plenty of spare screws and lock washers now, just in case one falls out. I will now check to see if the screw has come loose after running a tank of fuel off.

 

I may revert back to using the thread lock, but still use the spring washer because it stops the 12mm long screw from sticking into where the shaft runs...

 

 

I'll report back soon on this

[mydoddy69]

1 hour ago, andy_m said:

I was cleaning my car this morning... Nothing major... Just removing grass from the shafts.

 

While I was at it I checked some of the screws for tightness and one of the lower screws in the steering arm was loose but still in place.

 

I had used Loctite 248 in the thread so it hadn't worked in this instance, although the screw in the other steering arm was still tight.

 

So, I took this as an opportunity to try out some new M4 x 12 long screws and 4mm spring washers that I had ordered from http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/

 

The stock screw is an M4 x 10 long, but, as I have said elsewhere, the screw stops at least 1mm inside the steering arm casting and I partly blame that for recent problems with thread stripping.

 

Here's the new screw on the left and the stock screw on the right:-

 

 

And here is the old screw in the steering arm, tightened up to the collar:-

 

 

As you can see, there is still at least a millimetre of thread left to use in the steering arm casting.

 

This shows the new screw assembled but not tightened and you can see the collar and spring washer:-

 

 

And this is tightened up:-

 

 

This is looking inside the steering arm and you can see that pretty much all of the thread is used but the top of the screw does not intrude into where the shaft will be:-

 

 

I'm a lot happier now that I have sussed this little problem out although it remains to be seen if it stops the thread stripping problem. And I'm not likely to find out any time soon having splashed out £50 on a pair of billet steering arms.

 

I'm also not sure how well the spring washer will work. For now, on the side that I have installed the above, I am seeing how things fair without the thread lock. I've got plenty of spare screws and lock washers now, just in case one falls out. I will now check to see if the screw has come loose after running a tank of fuel off.

 

I may revert back to using the thread lock, but still use the spring washer because it stops the 12mm long screw from sticking into where the shaft runs...

 

 

I'll report back soon on this

 

£50 you got robbed mate there is nothing wrong with the ones on bay for like £25 i have used them and never broke one ever !!

 

14 hours ago, everclear1984 said:

Thanks, I'm not looking to get it running, I'll be stripping it to use what I need and sell what I don't. I'll post a sale ad tomorrow but if anyone sees something they need in the meantime make me an offer

 

Just take the front and rear end off the rest you can sell on oh and the steering assembly is different on the nitro to electric .. what's left isn't worth much but you might get £20.

[andy_m]

5 minutes ago, mydoddy69 said:

 

£50 you got robbed mate there is nothing wrong with the ones on bay for like £25 i have used them and never broke one ever !!

 

 

 

Hiya

 

Have you got a link for those ebay steering arms? I couldn't find anything when I searched last week.

 

cheers,

 

andy

 

 

[dazp1976]

8 minutes ago, mydoddy69 said:

 

Just take the front and rear end off the rest you can sell on oh and the steering assembly is different on the nitro to electric .. what's left isn't worth much but you might get £20.

I didn't want to depress him by saying that  

Glad Andy_m sussed the bolt lengths out early on, I bet there's still many a rtr runner still ripping them to bits and haven't noticed. Bit naughty of HPI to use them bolts really. That extra 1mm makes a difference and yes the GPM ones are fine with a longer bolt. I only  modded mine so I could make use of the stripped ones I had lying around   1st ones I did are still going  

 

[mydoddy69]

Just now, andy_m said:

 

 

Hiya

 

Have you got a link for those ebay steering arms? I couldn't find anything when I searched last week.

 

cheers,

 

andy

 

 

 Hopefully this will work 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=rcworld&hash=item5666b76472%3Ag%3AHg0AAOSwBadTq-8U&item=371090482290&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC1.A0.H0.Xhpi+trophy.TRS0&_nkw=hpi+trophy&_sacat=0

 

 

[andy_m]

1 minute ago, mydoddy69 said:

 Hopefully this will work 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=rcworld&hash=item5666b76472%3Ag%3AHg0AAOSwBadTq-8U&item=371090482290&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC1.A0.H0.Xhpi+trophy.TRS0&_nkw=hpi+trophy&_sacat=0

 

 

 

Thanks,

 

I hardly use ebay, and apart from a recent purchase from hobby king, I've never bought anything from Hong Kong, so I'd be a bit nervous about that.

 

But thanks for the link and I'll think about that for the future. In the meantime I'm hoping my expensive steering arms will last me a good while yet

 

cheers