HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!

[m4inbrain]

Weeeee, christmas came early this year - proud owner of a trophy nitro truggy now

 

Just one, really stupid, question. Where on earth are you supposed to put in the aerial? The picture in the manual isn't really helpful and shows a roughly 30cm long aerial, there's none of that in the vehicle oO

[crazyfrog]

7 minutes ago, m4inbrain said:

Weeeee, christmas came early this year - proud owner of a trophy nitro truggy now

 

Just one, really stupid, question. Where on earth are you supposed to put in the aerial? The picture in the manual isn't really helpful and shows a roughly 30cm long aerial, there's none of that in the vehicle oO

Same place as the old one. The 2.4ghz shorter aerial should fit in a hole in the radio box. If the previous owner was rubbish he might have put a screw in that hole.

[m4inbrain]

It's brand new, and my first one ever - so no idea where the old one went either

Gonna figure it out, same with the stuff that came with it that didn't get mentioned anywhere in the manual, weird clip things, metal rings and other bits and bobs.

[dazp1976]

There is no hole in receiver box itself. Run antenna out of the box where the servo cables are. There is a black part on the orange servo top plate with a little grub screw and a hole. Put the antenna tube in and then screw the grub screw in the hole next to it to hold it in place. Grub screw may be in there already so it will need taking out first. Black clip thingys go on the shocks above the springs for adjusting ride height. The round rings are shims for your diffs, check they have been done already by putting your hand in the back, put a finger on either side of the diff on an outdrive and if it wiggles a lot side to side then it hasn't been done.

Edited December 1, 2015 by dazp1976

[m4inbrain]

Brilliant, thanks so much. Got the antenna mounted already, the correct way. The clippy thingies are good to know, have to figure that out after running it in. 

[dazp1976]

1 minute ago, m4inbrain said:

Brilliant, thanks so much. Got the antenna mounted already, the correct way. The clippy thingies are good to know, have to figure that out after running it in. 

Have added a bit about the rings

[m4inbrain]

Gonna go and check now. 

Just wondering though, why wouldn't they put that in the manual? Seems kinda important. All that's in the manual is "put batteries in, make sure range is okay, then break in the engine". 

Coming to think of it, they actually don't tell you to put the airfilter on either. For a beginners kit (their words), that's a bit.. meh (and obviously i oiled the filter and put it on). 

[m4inbrain]

Okay, the outdrives are tight-ish. They have a little bit of play, like half a mm to the sides. 

[m4inbrain]

Bit scared, primed engine, started, and idles so high that the wheels are spinning like mad. Can i adjust the idle and leave hsn and lsn alone?

 

edit: didn't smoke either, heatgunned the header first.

Edited December 1, 2015 by m4inbrain

[dazp1976]

1 hour ago, m4inbrain said:

Okay, the outdrives are tight-ish. They have a little bit of play, like half a mm to the sides. 

Sounds about right. Without the shims in they would wiggle like mad.

[m4inbrain]

Just now, dazp1976 said:

Sounds about right. Without the shims in they would wiggle like mad.

Any idea why it's idling so high? I assumed it's setup out of the box (as the manual says), but it spins the wheels like crazy. Tried to adjust the idle needle, but no idea how far i can go there, and if i can break something. 

Is there something on the remote that could make it idle high, even if everything is set to neutral/factory?

[dazp1976]

10 minutes ago, m4inbrain said:

Any idea why it's idling so high? I assumed it's setup out of the box (as the manual says), but it spins the wheels like crazy. Tried to adjust the idle needle, but no idea how far i can go there, and if i can break something. 

Is there something on the remote that could make it idle high, even if everything is set to neutral/factory?

Check trim for throttle on the radio set, (TH-TR) and turn it anti clockwise which should push the throttle closed a little. If that doesn't move it then adjust idle screw anti clockwise and that will pull throttle closed. Take air filter off and look at the gap it should be about 1/2 to 1mm gap.

Engine manual is here: (exactly the same engine just a different clutch)

https://www.hpiracing.com/assets/documents/instruction_manuals/111598-f46_v2-glb-m-v1.pdf

This manual may be useful. Different car and parts but controls and principles ie building diffs are the same.

https://www.hpiracing.com/assets/documents/instruction_manuals/115878_vol02_hpi_d8s_rtr_060115.pdf

 

Edited December 1, 2015 by dazp1976

[m4inbrain]

Well.. Got through the first tank. The wheels were spinning on the block, but it apparently wasn't enough to actually move the car forwards while standing on the ground. Misjudgement on my part, never done this before. It obviously runs very rich (smokes nicely too) - but when i gave it a touch revs (quarter throttle, if that) - it idled higher than before, until i apply brakes. Is that normal? The idle screw is almost a complete turn out. 

Gap is between .5 and 1mm. Next tank i'm supposed to drive half throttle in circles, considering that it actually doesn't move at quarter throttle, i guess that's okay. I assume it's because it's running way too rich?

[dazp1976]

3 minutes ago, m4inbrain said:

Well.. Got through the first tank. The wheels were spinning on the block, but it apparently wasn't enough to actually move the car forwards while standing on the ground. Misjudgement on my part, never done this before. It obviously runs very rich (smokes nicely too) - but when i gave it a touch revs (quarter throttle, if that) - it idled higher than before, until i apply brakes. Is that normal? The idle screw is almost a complete turn out. 

Gap is between .5 and 1mm. Next tank i'm supposed to drive half throttle in circles, considering that it actually doesn't move at quarter throttle, i guess that's okay. I assume it's because it's running way too rich?

Yep. Well rich outta the box. If it won't move at 1/4 throttle I'd be tempted to give the HSN a 1/4 turn in if you've had a couple tanks through already so it can coast without cutting out. A guy near me was breaking one in earlier and he was constantly starting it. I'd say constantly cutting/starting it is gonna kill it first.

I'm thinking of selling up on my brushless and going back to nitro myself. I have a good 3 in parallel 6s in 40mins charge setup but 8 mins run time per pack is beginning to make me lose the love of electric.

[m4inbrain]

Gone through the first rolling tank now, damn those things run forever

It didn't cut out at all though. It was getting dark, so i'm not sure it was even puffing while idling - it was smoking like a truck while on half throttle (and 3/4 throttle which i couldn't resist but totally didn't do even though i know it's bad). Full throttle the engine bogged, as it's supposed to in the current setup if i read that up correctly. 

Started on third pull, idled and drove through the whole tank no issues. Just one thing is making me a bit insecure right now, when you pull the start after priming the engine, it makes a very, VERY distictive metal-y clunk sound. Is that normal? I don't recall hearing that ever in videos.

[dazp1976]

1 minute ago, m4inbrain said:

Gone through the first rolling tank now, damn those things run forever

It didn't cut out at all though. It was getting dark, so i'm not sure it was even puffing while idling - it was smoking like a truck while on half throttle (and 3/4 throttle which i couldn't resist but totally didn't do even though i know it's bad). Full throttle the engine bogged, as it's supposed to in the current setup if i read that up correctly. 

Started on third pull, idled and drove through the whole tank no issues. Just one thing is making me a bit insecure right now, when you pull the start after priming the engine, it makes a very, VERY distictive metal-y clunk sound. Is that normal? I don't recall hearing that ever in videos.

That sounds about right then. I think the metaly clunk is when the pin on the back of the crankshaft comes round on each revolution to it's locking point on the backplate and springs out as it goes round and round. Nothing to worry about.

[m4inbrain]

Just now, dazp1976 said:

That sounds about right then. I think the metaly clunk is when the pin on the back of the crankshaft comes round on each revolution to it's locking point on the backplate and springs out as it goes round and round. Nothing to worry about.

Brilliant. Still gonna record the sound and upload it tomorrow, just to make sure - don't wanna ruin my new baby, i've actually never even seen a nitro before. Just to clarify how "much" experience i have with them. 

But it's ridiculous fun, need to figure out things one after another now. Gonna 1/2 throttle two more tanks now, after that i'll (at least i think) try and get the tuning right. So far, i think, i'm doing it by the book - apart from me not turning the dry engine over to get the fuel going, i blew into the pressure line thingy off of the exhaust. After second tank (too dark to drive now ) i took the glowplug out, dripped 5 drops of after run oil in, glowplug back in, 3 pulls on the starter. 

Next to figure out is setting up the suspension, ordering the correct diff-oils (and shock oil, only have 35wt available which might be too light), and obviously getting the engine to run properly.

[dazp1976]

1 hour ago, m4inbrain said:

Brilliant. Still gonna record the sound and upload it tomorrow, just to make sure - don't wanna ruin my new baby, i've actually never even seen a nitro before. Just to clarify how "much" experience i have with them. 

But it's ridiculous fun, need to figure out things one after another now. Gonna 1/2 throttle two more tanks now, after that i'll (at least i think) try and get the tuning right. So far, i think, i'm doing it by the book - apart from me not turning the dry engine over to get the fuel going, i blew into the pressure line thingy off of the exhaust. After second tank (too dark to drive now ) i took the glowplug out, dripped 5 drops of after run oil in, glowplug back in, 3 pulls on the starter. 

Next to figure out is setting up the suspension, ordering the correct diff-oils (and shock oil, only have 35wt available which might be too light), and obviously getting the engine to run properly.

I'd take off the air filter and put some drops of after oil down the carb intake too for the bearings and crankshaft.

[m4inbrain]

1 hour ago, dazp1976 said:

I'd take off the air filter and put some drops of after oil down the carb intake too for the bearings and crankshaft.

Not the worst idea, i assume i turn over the engine a couple of times after that as well, yes?

[dazp1976]

14 minutes ago, m4inbrain said:

Not the worst idea, i assume i turn over the engine a couple of times after that as well, yes?

Yep.

[m4inbrain]

Done, thanks for the tip. Can't wait to get back out again tomorrow. 

And, as someone who's used to 1/10 electric.. Damn that thing has presence.

 

edit:

 

 

These are all the things i got with the car (i know it's not the truggy) - some parts i can guess, like the servo arms, but i can't find any information on what basically all the bottom stuff is. The metally rings are shims for diffs, the small black rings next to it i assume are some seals, next to that there's some.. suspensionpart, grubscrews, and to the right there's those clips which i assume are to preload the suspension. 

 

.. right? Damn i feel stupid, but i feel like that's something that should be at least on a part list somewhere, as in "what's included" or something. :/

Edited December 1, 2015 by m4inbrain

[m4inbrain]

Another question (who would've thought).. The brakes seem to be, lets say.. A bit underwhelming. I looked around youtube and the interwebs for tutorials, not much to be found except a video that is 240p, and  you can't see anything.

The servo for throttle/brakes has two linkages with small "stoppers" with grubscrews on the end. Am i correct with the assumption that if i loosen the grubscrew and push them further up the linkage, it will improve braking? I mean, maybe i'm a bit delusional, but i can push the car standing on the ground, brakes fully applied with little force, that shouldn't be right?

Or is that where i get told that i need a better servo? :/

And is there a trick to adjust brake bias properly, or is that more a "that'll do" kind of thing? 

Edited December 3, 2015 by m4inbrain

[dazp1976]

12 minutes ago, m4inbrain said:

Another question (who would've thought).. The brakes seem to be, lets say.. A bit underwhelming. I looked around youtube and the interwebs for tutorials, not much to be found except a video that is 240p, and  you can't see anything.

The servo for throttle/brakes has two linkages with small "stoppers" with grubscrews on the end. Am i correct with the assumption that if i loosen the grubscrew and push them further up the linkage, it will improve braking? I mean, maybe i'm a bit delusional, but i can push the car standing on the ground, brakes fully applied with little force, that shouldn't be right?

Or is that where i get told that i need a better servo? :/

On the Truggy instead of undoing the grub screws you can turn the actual linkage shaft clockwise to tighten the brakes. The block on the plastic servo horn where the linkage goes into is threaded. Same principle as the D8. Page 11

https://www.hpiracing.com/assets/documents/instruction_manuals/115878_vol02_hpi_d8s_rtr_060115.pdf

If that don't help much then change servo lol.

Edited December 3, 2015 by dazp1976

[dazp1976]

17 minutes ago, m4inbrain said:

These are all the things i got with the car (i know it's not the truggy) - some parts i can guess, like the servo arms, but i can't find any information on what basically all the bottom stuff is. The metally rings are shims for diffs, the small black rings next to it i assume are some seals, next to that there's some.. suspensionpart, grubscrews, and to the right there's those clips which i assume are to preload the suspension. 

 

.. right? Damn i feel stupid, but i feel like that's something that should be at least on a part list somewhere, as in "what's included" or something. :/

 

Spot on except those little black rings next to the shims are used on the D8's and Vorza. They are spacers bundled and used with the rear hub carriers for changing the wheelbase length.

[m4inbrain]

Thanks for the D8 manual, didn't know that there's compatibilities. 

Don't understand though why that gets explained in the manual for the D8 - but not in the one for the truggy. Man, this thing will be alot of work, hehe. Sadly couldn't drive today, rain. Like, alot. Obviously the day after my baby arrives. -.-