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HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!

henzy190

By henzy190
in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums

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TT83 Apprentice

TT83

Posted
Posted

Just had a quick go with the 17t pinion and it's pretty quick, can't wait for a go tomorrow :-D

How's the throttle response...???

bashing time!!!

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stevo2551 Explorer

stevo2551

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Seemed pretty good, but I only did 2 passes down the street and back, didn't seem to loose much acceleration wise in that short test but I'll know more later as long as the rain holds off for a bit

Edit: had a 10 min blast on a big gravel carpark after dropping the Mrs at work, I'm quite impressed, it's gained a fair bit of speed with very little loss of acceleration, temps seemed fine from that quick go I think but the battery/esc connections were fairly warm...

Edited by stevo2551
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stevo2551 Explorer

stevo2551

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Had a blast up at the quarry and im happy with the gearing and speed for now, but I've gained an esc problem instead. It randomly cuts out complety but comes back on and goes through the bleeps like when you turn it on? Had a fiddle with the wires and things and things at the time but still did it, was hoping to get both cars out tomorrow with the Mrs for a bit but now I guess I've got some tinkering to do first...

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savageking Apprentice

savageking

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Had a blast up at the quarry and im happy with the gearing and speed for now, but I've gained an esc problem instead. It randomly cuts out complety but comes back on and goes through the bleeps like when you turn it on? Had a fiddle with the wires and things and things at the time but still did it, was hoping to get both cars out tomorrow with the Mrs for a bit but now I guess I've got some tinkering to do first...

Sounds like the overheat protection.

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savageking Apprentice

savageking

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Hey guys...

What 3 piece clutch type...

Aluminum or plastic???

And why???

Thanks...

bashing time!!!

Alimium, had plastic in my savage and metal in my trophy, the metals will grip so much better, and you feel this as you run, they grip and the car gets perky, metal shoes dont cost that much anymore, just make sure to debure them every now and again and you willl be fine.

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dazp1976 Proficient

dazp1976

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Had a blast up at the quarry and im happy with the gearing and speed for now, but I've gained an esc problem instead. It randomly cuts out complety but comes back on and goes through the bleeps like when you turn it on? Had a fiddle with the wires and things and things at the time but still did it, was hoping to get both cars out tomorrow with the Mrs for a bit but now I guess I've got some tinkering to do first...

 

Sounds like the overheat protection.

Or the notorious switch is starting to fail.

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stevo2551 Explorer

stevo2551

Posted
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I'm hoping it's nothing to do with heat protection as none of the bits are even warm, motor, esc, batts, connections are all fine. I'm thinking it's to do with the switch, there's no 'button' to slide power on and off as it snapped before I got it but had no problems using a tooth pic up till now, it's like I'm disconnecting the battery and plugging it back in with the way the esc is going through the motions and bleeps at power up. I'll have a look shortly and see about removing the switch if it's not repairable

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dazp1976 Proficient

dazp1976

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I'm hoping it's nothing to do with heat protection as none of the bits are even warm, motor, esc, batts, connections are all fine. I'm thinking it's to do with the switch, there's no 'button' to slide power on and off as it snapped before I got it but had no problems using a tooth pic up till now, it's like I'm disconnecting the battery and plugging it back in with the way the esc is going through the motions and bleeps at power up. I'll have a look shortly and see about removing the switch if it's not repairable

One of the most irritating flaws is that switch and deliberately you cannot buy a replacement without buying an esc. I had one with the slider missing but I sold the combo straight away as I had a better one. I did buy a Hobbywing switch to try but didn't get around to it as the esc is a Hobbywing 80a rebadge.

If you bypass it you will lose ability to change settings via the set button and will need a box. The Hobbywing led type works perfectly fine with it if needed.

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stevo2551 Explorer

stevo2551

Posted
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stripped and cleaned the esc top, and fan (noticed a chipped fan fin) and stripped the switch and cleaned it up, I'm pretty sure it is something to do with the switch itself, even though I found a little bit of a chafing mark and a showing white wire that I insulating taped up and refit everything. Powers up as normal and stays on when I wiggle things about. I'll be fed up if I walk up to the bumpy quarry and it does it again haha.

I've never messed with the set up button as I couldn't find a 'cheat sheet' and someone to explain the motions it goes through, but how would I bypass the switch if I chose to do so, and I'm sure if the parts were kept could be reversedif need be to alter the settings?

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TT83 Apprentice

TT83

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Posted

Alimium, had plastic in my savage and metal in my trophy, the metals will grip so much better, and you feel this as you run, they grip and the car gets perky, metal shoes dont cost that much anymore, just make sure to debure them every now and again and you willl be fine.

What did you mean by "debure them"....???

bashing time!!!

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savageking Apprentice

savageking

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What did you mean by "debure them"....???

bashing time!!!

Plastics will just wear away, but the metals will form a sllight lip around the edges of the shoe as it wears, you have top get rid of this with a file every now and again so it doenst cause issues with binding clutch and ect,  But dont let his put you off, you defo feel the difference between plastic and metal shoes, the metal shoes will make the truck pull much much more and you will feel more of the engione power.

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stevo2551 Explorer

stevo2551

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Good call on the droop screws, I've had mine this way for a couple of weeks but and it seems to work ok, but over time I think they push through so I've got a large head countersunk ones on, could always shim it out with washers to get and keep the desired setting :-D

I think I've solved my issue, saldered some new deans connectors on to the batterys instead of using the bullet to deans (which was not a propper one it was a hk knock off that went bad over time)

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dazp1976 Proficient

dazp1976

Posted
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Good call on the droop screws, I've had mine this way for a couple of weeks but and it seems to work ok, but over time I think they push through so I've got a large head countersunk ones on, could always shim it out with washers to get and keep the desired setting :-D

I think I've solved my issue, saldered some new deans connectors on to the batterys instead of using the bullet to deans (which was not a propper one it was a hk knock off that went bad over time)

Glad to hear your issue may be solved :)

I'll put countersunk screws on there at some point to give it more surface area.

I Don't really like the Deans even though they are fine (crap at soldering). I'm a 5.5 bullet user, however... I must remember NOT to drop the + on the charger psu while taking the battery off!!!!!!

I've always (well, so far) taken the - off first because the + plug is exposed. Lesson learned eh. Going to go to the more covered EC5 I reckon.

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stevo2551 Explorer

stevo2551

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To be fair I thaught they were matching deans connectors, but the guy in the shop had a look over it and said they're a bit iffy. I've not lugged it back up to the quarry again today I'll have a test on some bumpy bits out front and go up for a blast tomorrow on the Mrs day off.

I broke a Lipo by sparking it a while ago, but I'm a lot more careful now

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dazp1976 Proficient

dazp1976

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I DO NOT recommend using a more recent ATX psu for your charger. They don't build anything like they used to!!!

I had a 300w 17A one from years ago which had served me for a year charging 6s at 10A all day long until a mishap with a battery connector.

Now. I got another one which was 700w 36A very cheap and hooked it up exactly the same which should do the job easy.

The voltage was weaker by over 1 volt under load compared to my old one and as I was checking input voltage on the charger display the psu went bang within 1 minute.

Not  viable using more recent PSU's.

Luckily the charger is OK.

Daz.

My old one didn't need a resistor, maybe this one did!!! :36_11_13[1]:

Edited by dazp1976
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Shiesty2000 Apprentice

Shiesty2000

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi guys my pull start keeps slipping I have just put new 3 peace clutch and shoes on everything seems ok with that can any on help

Sounds like the one way bearing is either bad or dirty

Sometimes the backing plate leaks and allows oil to get on the bearing which makes it slip. Pull the cord all the way out and Take some nitro spray and shoot it into the hole for a few seconds. Should help for now unless the leak or bearing is really bad

Edited by Shiesty2000
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stevenb2675 Apprentice

stevenb2675

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Sounds like the one way bearing is either bad or dirty

Sometimes the backing plate leaks and allows oil to get on the bearing which makes it slip. Pull the cord all the way out and Take some nitro spray and shoot it into the hole for a few seconds. Should help for now unless the leak or bearing is really bad

Thank you might sound stupid but what is nitro spray and where can I get hold of it ??

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dazp1976 Proficient

dazp1976

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Thank you might sound stupid but what is nitro spray and where can I get hold of it ??

Think he means that nitro cleaner spray stuff you get to clean the nitro gunk off of your chassis and plastics:

http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/CC-FAST02N.html?gclid=CJPk0fjkxcUCFernwgod614ANw

If you have any WD40 lying around you could take it apart and try that on OWB first. (Don't get WD in engine though). Get it clean / dry afterward and get the backplate as spotless as you can. Refit and see how it is.

Then try some of the spray if it's still pants, it is useful anyway.

Edited by dazp1976
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rctech132 Contributor

rctech132

Posted
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Just finished my rebuild of a Trophy Buggy/ HB lightning 2 

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