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HPI Trophy Truggy and Buggy Owners Club!


henzy190

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I went up to the quarry for a hour earlier and managed to not break anything, that's an achievement for me. and the pinion stayed put this time too. All dusty and ready for a clean again tomorrow haha

I've got a spektrum s8000 servo in mine, I don't know how anyone else rates them for price/quality but had mine in for over 6 months and works well for me

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So I just bent the outer front pin HPI101021 and now I'm having trouble finding a replacement. Any idea what I can use?

I haven't found an alternative suitable replacement part for the fronts yet. Maybe a 3mm threaded bar cut down with a nut on either end will do until you find some.

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I appreciate your help but I live in the states and I'm not sure if they will ship here and I'm sure the cost will be high if they do

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Try this...

E clips suck...

https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/68184

On what part of the states are you?

bashing time!!!

As Shiesty said. Those are sweet on the back but too long for the front unless you are running D8T front arms like I was for a short period. 109848 are a perfect fit on the inner. 109850 also go on the rear if you fit a plastic spacer that comes with the rear hubs to compensate for the 5mm extra length as these pins can be a bit cheaper than the 68184.

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im trying to fit a savox servo in my truggy ive took the old one out but this is a few mm too tall which is poo haha

Go to HPI website and look at part no 101175. See the small thin flat block in the set, something like that is what you need. I use a 10mm wide 1.5 - 2.5mm thick alloy flat bar that I cut and drill with the Dremel to make a decent solid spacer for raising things like servos and motor mounts. A length of something like that doesn't cost much (aka B&Q). I do the same for my drive pins and uj's from 2.5 - 3mm round steel bars.

Talking of poo, I think my SF-50 is taking a dump :(

Edited by dazp1976
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im trying to upgrade to the 3 shoe setup using the (67525) flywheel and (8059) clutch nut with the savage 17t vented bell. At first I noticed the pins in the flywheel were hitting the clutch bell and if i shimmed the clutch bell out the shoes would be showing. So I ended up grinding down the pins and now the bell fits fine but it seems like I need a bunch of shims to push the clutch bell out far enough and when I do that the shoes will end up sticking out again. If I put the shims on the outside of the clutch bell then the teeth won't have a good bite on the spur gear. Should I just but a savage flywheel, and nut and use that? I'm so confused on how to fix this

Edited by Shiesty2000
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I can't help you on that one I'm afraid shiesty but I'm sure someone on here can.

Took the flux out for some abuse yesterday in the sunshine....it's currently in bits in a box as the pinion came loose again (after being re tightened with blue locktight) I noticed a different noise as it went past so I investigated and it had slipped down and rubbed on the motor mount a little. Fixed it on site and carried on (what a pita that was) also noticed the chassis is twisted at the rear and I'm not confident that all my diffs are ok either. I can't really describe why, it's just a feeling haha so I know what I'll be doing this week...

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im trying to upgrade to the 3 shoe setup using the (67525) flywheel and (8059) clutch nut with the savage 17t vented bell. At first I noticed the pins in the flywheel were hitting the clutch bell and if i shimmed the clutch bell out the shoes would be showing. So I ended up grinding down the pins and now the bell fits fine but it seems like I need a bunch of shims to push the clutch bell out far enough and when I do that the shoes will end up sticking out again. If I put the shims on the outside of the clutch bell then the teeth won't have a good bite on the spur gear. Should I just but a savage flywheel, and nut and use that? I'm so confused on how to fix this

Can u not shim the flywheel collar?

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Dose anyone know of a reason why the gears inside a diffcase would stop touching?

 

It is a Hot bodies lightning pro diff case with hardened gears, i thought that i might of blew the diff but the gears are all fine.

 

 

Cheers

 

 

 

Allan

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Dose anyone know of a reason why the gears inside a diffcase would stop touching?

It is a Hot bodies lightning pro diff case with hardened gears, i thought that i might of blew the diff but the gears are all fine.

Cheers

Allan

Did you open the diff and try to spin the cup to see if they spin?

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Dose anyone know of a reason why the gears inside a diffcase would stop touching?

 

It is a Hot bodies lightning pro diff case with hardened gears, i thought that i might of blew the diff but the gears are all fine.

 

 

Cheers

 

 

 

Allan

You talking about the internal spider gears or the main ring+pinion gears?

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Did you open the diff and try to spin the cup to see if they spin?

Aye, everything appeared to look normal, main gears at both ends were seated fine and the wee bars that go threw the cups were intact, the "planet gear" (the little ones) again were sitting in the correct locations, the bars that they go on to were again undamaged. When you remove the pinion gear and place the big internal gear from that back into the diff, apply a little pressure with your thumb and turn the other cup, you can feel the gear moving as it is suppose too, also putting the gear back into the pinion and holding it while turning the pinion cup, you can see/feel the internal gear turning with the cup

 

You talking about the internal spider gears or the main ring+pinion gears?

the internal gears

 

 

 

Allan

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I paid 150 for my buggy flux off a friend about a year ago with a couple of batts and 2 chargers, it'd been well used before I bought it and now it lives a better life. The bottom of the chassis will show how it's been used providing it's still on it's first (i've re-straightened mine a few times) and also the bottom looks like a cheese greaters been at it, but I also use it hard on a stone/gravel quarry :-D

I've just about finished putting it back together after the last outing so I'll put some pics up shortly.

I said something didn't feel right and I had a leaky front diff that lost a bit of oil from the bottom of the plastic diff cup. New seal in and re oiled again, checked the other diffs and they were fine without a top up.

batterys on charge....ready to go again :-P

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