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Car accelerating on its own when started and more...


andyt1992

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Hey everyone,

new to nitro so need some help, when i start the engine it starts 2nd pull on the pullstart but when it does start the wheels start spinning madly and when i adjust the trim on the transmitter they dont stop i dont think it's the throttle linkage setup thats the problem as it isnt opening up the carb when throttle isnt pressed on control. Car is an acme condor self build

Also is it okay to leave fuel in the tank for 2-3 days?

Thanks,

Andy

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not wise to leave fuel in take for x,y,z days :confused:

the thottle issue maybe you need to reverse ch2 on radio via micro switches(you will have remove servo horn from servo to reset its position an also reduce the idle from carb, doing that carb should open when apply thottle an pulling back on stick or trigger applys brakes.

Edited by R46
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not wise to leave fuel in take for x,y,z days :confused:

the thottle issue maybe you need to reverse ch2 on radio via micro switches(you will have remove servo horn from servo to reset its position an also reduce the idle from carb, doing that carb should open when apply thottle an pulling back on stick or trigger applys brakes.

So i have to reverse channel 2 on my transmitter? then take off the servo horn? then put servo horn back on and start it like normal?

Thanks.

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tried switching the channel 2 switch all it does is puts the brakes on when i press the throttle and gives throttle when i brake??? what could it be anyone?? just put some fuel in my car and dont want to leave it, need to use it for an engine break in which is why i dont want the car running full speed when i start it dont wanna wreck the engine before i've drove the car? could it be something with the idle screw and high speed needle? team infinity .18 engine.

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don't start engine yet!

best too remove airfilter an see gap needs to be around .5 -1mm gap( reduce idle(anti clockwise) via screw in front or behind carb

ok put switch back to its orignal position but still remove horn an reset it with trim level just over halfway.

then check operation first that carb opens when apply thottle an brakes when apply that

if all systems go then fire up an adjust idle via carb not radio

Edited by R46
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Manually check the gap in the carb under the air filter, make ure i's no more than1 mm open at neutral and try again.

is this the gold coloured rod? or the other silver circular hole? how do you adjust them?

does the bronze needle get adjusted by the idle screw and the circular hole get adjusted by the hsn?

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this isn't exact same as your carb but indicates what what

rc-carburetor.jpg

  1. High Speed Adjustment Needle
  2. Low Speed Adjustment Needle
  3. Idle Adjustment Screw( on acme engine its located under/in front of airfilter)
  4. Throttle Linkage
  5. Fuel Inlet

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The following video showed me that the carb was open way too much - around 3-4mm. The video helped illustrate what you were all saying. Just posting so anyone else searching finds what they need:

Only problem is now the pull start wont pull properly, so i guessed engine was flooded, took off glow plug covered hole with cloth and pulled the starter, starter pulls fine with no glow plug in but cant pull it when plug is in. what can it be except flooded engine?

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i had a similar problem mate. my throttle servo was reversed for whatever reason but the linkage was set up for the servos in forwards so when i had the channel set to normal on the transmitter the engine revved waaaay high. then when it was in reverse the brakes were applied at neutral. ended up having to have the transmitter in reverse and turn the horn round/ adjust the linkage

sounds like you need to do the same mate

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Only problem is now the pull start wont pull properly, so i guessed engine was flooded, took off glow plug covered hole with cloth and pulled the starter, starter pulls fine with no glow plug in but cant pull it when plug is in. what can it be except flooded engine?

If it's new engine then it could just be pinch effect (tightness of new engine), all new engines do it when the piston is at the top of the liner.

Take the plug out and rotate the flywheel til the piston is at the bottom and then replace the plug but don't tighten it all the way.

Once the engine starts, tighten the plug properly. If you're breaking it in then remember to return the piston to the bottom of it's stroke during

the cool down cycle. Easiest way is put a mark on the flywheel so you know what position that is.good.gif

Also, leaving fuel in the tank for a few days won't hurt but any longer and probably best to empty if you want to do it right.

(I've not run mine for a week and have no intention of draining the tank)

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If it's new engine then it could just be pinch effect (tightness of new engine), all new engines do it when the piston is at the top of the liner.

Take the plug out and rotate the flywheel til the piston is at the bottom and then replace the plug but don't tighten it all the way.

Once the engine starts, tighten the plug properly. If you're breaking it in then remember to return the piston to the bottom of it's stroke during

the cool down cycle. Easiest way is put a mark on the flywheel so you know what position that is.good.gif

Also, leaving fuel in the tank for a few days won't hurt but any longer and probably best to empty if you want to do it right.

(I've not run mine for a week and have no intention of draining the tank)

Thanks for that mate i'm quite confident this will work but i'll have to wait til tomorrow to try it out though as nextdoor neighbour has a young baby. also i found a way to empty the tank easily on my car cos i have a priming fuel filter so i take the fuel pipe off the carb, put it in a fuel bottle then squeeze the primer til tanks empty thought i'd be able to break it in today and stupidly filled the tank full before the engine had ever been started then when i had problems was left with a full tank :s

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The following video showed me that the carb was open way too much - around 3-4mm. The video helped illustrate what you were all saying. Just posting so anyone else searching finds what they need:

Only problem is now the pull start wont pull properly, so i guessed engine was flooded, took off glow plug covered hole with cloth and pulled the starter, starter pulls fine with no glow plug in but cant pull it when plug is in. what can it be except flooded engine?

Nowt do with a flooded engine, as said before your engine is just tight (good compression); which is a good thing!

Just heat it up b4 starting and you could loosen the glow plug on starting too, just remember to tighten it back up once it's fired up. It'll get easier to turn over with more ussage.

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