teshi Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 I honestly have to call this the biggest fluke of a photo but it works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richhrly Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 Persid win! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCAdam Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 (edited) Will a UV filter such as a Hoya HMC reduce the reflection of windscreens and glares on corners of cars in sunlight? (I'm fairly new to photography and wondering if its UV or any other type of filter) Edited August 14, 2014 by RCAdam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 You need a polarizer of some sort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazza1304 Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 (edited) You want a circular polarising filter. Doesn't work on metal surfaces though... Here's a few completely unrealted photos Gear Retraction by Harry Measures, on Flickr Griffon by Harry Measures, on Flickr Mustang by Harry Measures, on Flickr Edited August 15, 2014 by hazza1304 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWINSET Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 Local camera club's been having a few Facebook challenges lately.This month, light bulbs; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teddyt Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 couple of pics of the wifes pussy!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazza1304 Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Bearcat by Harry Measures, on Flickr 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 I have a very old and basic digital camera, these are some of the shots I have taken with it.... makes me wonder what I might achieve with something a tad less box brownie and more SLR...... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoothybb Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 makes me wonder what I might achieve with something a tad less box brownie and more SLR...... A conviction for voyeurism? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hazza1304 Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 Shuttleworth Season Finale by Harry Measures, on Flickr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWINSET Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Got the OK from a couple of bands to shoot some gigs so bought a second, 'sacrificial' D-SLR to see how I get on - Don't want to risk a beer-rinse on the other one This lot was just over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richhrly Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 Get a filter on it and you're set! Gigs can be awesome to shoot, but can also be a bit of a horror story if the light is red - then black and white is your friend! I'm oddly proud of an iPhone snap from a recent Future of the Left gig.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TWINSET Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 I've not had bad results with my phone, but the shutter-lag is abysmal so they've been more down to luck than anythingWhat filter would you recommend? I normally just end up with a skylight for 'wipeablility' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richhrly Posted October 26, 2014 Author Share Posted October 26, 2014 Yeah, Skylight or UV (pretty much the same). Skylight tweaks the colours ever so slightly, but given you're shooting with bright coloured lights, it's probably not worth worrying about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe of loath Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 (edited) Just FYI, if you're planning on using that 28-105 for low light stuff with that body without a flash, you're going to run into some big trouble with noise. My body has similar noise performance, and I shoot with an f2.5 lens as a minimum when shooting available light. Hence why I prefer to use a flash. Also, I'd recommend against a filter - they give weird flare when you shoot into the light. Some of mine: And this one I took on film: Edited October 26, 2014 by joe of loath 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 I have Upgraded to, grabbed a Canon 40D i had a choice a 450D or a 40D both at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Not too shabby Tami. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 1, 2014 Share Posted November 1, 2014 (edited) yeah dont get me wrong the 350D was awesome still is, but there is something about the 40D. contrast is better, color range is more defined but its just this 40d sensor. 1600 iso and its very nearly noise free, i doubt much noise would come from the boosted iso option. one niggle is the shutter sound, it sounds wonky, like the 350d has a defined shutter sound but the 40D is more like a woosh click. need it to snow get cold and the brids to start feeding from the feeders again (had a moggy staking the garden out so birds have not been visiting ) mind you i did get a shot of a gaggle of buzzards thermaling above the house and chasing pidgeons ( they move to quick for my panning skills ). i gave the 350D to my mom, going to get her an 18-55mm kitty and a tripod, she is always moaning about the bridge camera flash being broken and pictures not looking as they should. its going to be a damn sight better than what she was using i hope. just have her using camera in P mode at mo getting used to it and how to work it. Edited November 1, 2014 by Tamiyacowboy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Recent one from me. More images on the links in my signature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richhrly Posted November 25, 2014 Author Share Posted November 25, 2014 I've been tooling about with flashes between 500nanoseconds and 5 microsecond range (for reference, most speedlights have a fastest speed of 1/40,000th second, we're talking 1/2,000,000 second here!) This flash is called Vela, there's a Kickstarter launching later (no, I'm nothing to do with it! I just know the guy who made it) and I'm pretty pumped. High speed = fun speed! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 some advice please. want to timelapse a car window screen / roof freezing over. how would one set up the camera and tripod to capture this wonder of nature happening. say something like 1 min intervals , and hard on the F stop like say f11 upwards with a mid length exposure say 15 seconds or more or would i be better off recording at 60fps for a few hours then run it into say virtualdub and adjust the playback fps there. want to make more use of my 40d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richhrly Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 Doing it via video will waste a lot of space, and there's no need to do it at 60FPS really. You probably don't need to stretch the exposure to 15s, unless you're doing this overnight. Long exposures in timelapses help when there's movement (people, water etc) but this can still be as fast as 1/4s to be effective. Manual focus, aperture priority, ISO set to something sensible, frame every minute = bobs your uncle. Triggertrap is, naturally, a very good thing to do this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 (edited) Doing it via video will waste a lot of space, and there's no need to do it at 60FPS really. You probably don't need to stretch the exposure to 15s, unless you're doing this overnight. Long exposures in timelapses help when there's movement (people, water etc) but this can still be as fast as 1/4s to be effective. Manual focus, aperture priority, ISO set to something sensible, frame every minute = bobs your uncle. Triggertrap is, naturally, a very good thing to do this thank you richard. night time is when the images would be taken we just dont get cold enough air here in norfolk to get a daytime freeze. idea was to capture the ice creeping its way across a car roof - window shield , played back at say 24-30fps we all wake up to those very calming swirls and fern like patterns left by the cold frosts. my idea was to capture this work of nature in motion as it happened. i want trigger trap, but i love the 350D (my first dslr) and am finding it hard to let it go, the cash could be used to get a cheap basic triggertrap. but i have already overspent lol replacing the water gathering bird feeder feature with a full on bird house table. ( its my way of bringing in the wildlife but also getting the attention of the 5 buzzards that have taken up roost close by to Edited November 27, 2014 by Tamiyacowboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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