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The Axial RBX10 Ryft Owners Thread!


.AJ.

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Just about  finished my Ryft kit,  need to tidy the wiring and paint the body panels, but I have a question, where the upper links mount on the chassis frame there are height options, to raise the link pivot point  up or down, what difference does moving the links  make?

 

Cheers!

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Well, my prebuilt all metal axles and housings arrived only to disappoint, as they'd sent me two front axles!

 

The quality looks good and I'll report back once the rear one arrives from China, and I've recovered from my Carpal Tunnel Surgery, slated for Monday. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's the motor you get in the combo.   I can lock it into low gear of needed.  I'm getting the combo off a friend for a fantastic price.  I can always sell this motor and replace with a lower KV one. 

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Wondering about the sway bar and its affect on handling

 

My first run was on 3S and Hobbywing Fusion, my word its quick!….but it falls over turning under power, a lot, so I ordered 120mm shocks, Desert Lizards and set them up for droop, 1/3 spring height above the shock piston and 2/3 below, the front axle just clears the bottom of the cage on full compression.  It is now significantly lower and turns better, but is still quite prone to lying down for a rest when cornering hard…

 

I think I will disconnect the sway bar and see if it makes any difference, I doubt there will be much torque twist with the ridiculous amount of droop I have

 

Theres is obvs a learning curve to get the best of of this beast

 

Im wondering if the sway bar affects cornering?

 

Perhaps the tyres are too grippy?

 

Thoughts?

 

Treal links and servo saver

Hobbywing Fusion/3S

120mm Desert Lizard shocks, set up for droop (not full droop) with longer lower links, 30 weight oil which is probably a bit too thick, might try 15, 4 hole pistons, medium top spring, soft lower…

 

9E16FB31-A7C5-4A55-931E-C2DEFEEB3D17.jpeg

Edited by Paulnb57
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They're too top heavy for fast cornering. Try shorter dampers or tie down the ones you have. 

I use mine as a Rock Bouncer so need the full stroke suspension. I fitted the sway bar to keep the front right down under brisk acceleration. Which it does. 

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On 08/02/2023 at 13:48, Stormbringer said:

hopefully they send the correct axle pretty quickly and good luck with your surgery  :good:

Well the rear axle arrived pretty quickly and a perfectly reasonable request for me to return the 'spare' axle. Sadly I was due for a minor hand operation the next day and so am housebound until it heals sufficiently for me to assemble and so use my mobility scooter to get to the post office. (In use as I'm also waiting for a knee replacement!). 

Despite the seller declanrose on ebay asking me a couple of times to return it, he has yet to give me the return address. So in anticipation of getting out and about in the near future I've asked him for the address for the third time!

Once the hand is healed my first job is going to be the installation of softer springs, the metal axles, metal skid plate and metal body panels. More once it's done.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well the carpal tunnel surgery is 5 weeks ago and my hand is as good as its going to get. I left it too long to get done and have a second finger that is still numb, the surgeon did warn me it was likely to late to save that. 

 

While I'm waiting to see if they'll replace my right knee. A medical issue may delay/postpone the operation due a week tomorrow, I thought I'd get on replacing the axles. This pm I've done the rear and what a beggar of a job getting the universal joint off the old one, then I found I needed to remove a circlip on the new one to enable the holes to line up. At least it's done. I used 2million cst in the differential, and will use the same on the front. Pictures once I have it all done! 

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OK, so today I got the axles fitted, had to rebind the thing (Which was a learning curve getting at the receiver!) and took it into the street for a play, prior to taking photos. Some fool (ME!) drove it at full wack into the kerb and I have broken the angled bar end at the skid plate end. 

 

So. I looked at the exploded diagrams in the book, and am still no wiser about how I remove the ball and broken end before fitting the replacement end, which I already have. 

 

I have an awful feeling I'll have to tear the thing down. Anybody done it and can tell me how to do this and where to start, please??

 

 

Thanks in advance. 

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2 hours ago, .AJ. said:

Undo the skid screws going through the side of the cage, then the skid will drop down and you will be able to get to all the rod end screws 👍 

Hi and thank you! I had visions of a more complete strip down than the one needed to reach the receiver box. 

I've ordered real solid bars and when they arrive I'll set too. 

 

@.A.J Legend! 

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It turned out that I didn't need to do that. The front lower struts are accessible without undoing anything, there's a groove at the side which allows access with a 1.5 hex to the long grub screw that holds them on. Even the makers advised I drop the skid plate but you don't.

I replaced them with Treal struts and hopefully that will avoid further issues, if some fool runs it at full chat on 3S into a high kerb. Who'd do that? 😳 

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