GeoffDa

It turned out that I didn't need to do that. The front lower struts are accessible without undoing anything, there's a groove at the side which allows access with a 1.5 hex to the long grub screw that holds them on. Even the makers advised I drop the skid plate but you don't. I replaced them with Treal struts and hopefully that will avoid further issues, if some fool runs it at full chat on 3S into a high kerb. Who'd do that? 😳

Hi and thank you! I had visions of a more complete strip down than the one needed to reach the receiver box. I've ordered real solid bars and when they arrive I'll set too. @.A.J Legend!

OK, so today I got the axles fitted, had to rebind the thing (Which was a learning curve getting at the receiver!) and took it into the street for a play, prior to taking photos. Some fool (ME!) drove it at full wack into the kerb and I have broken the angled bar end at the skid plate end. So. I looked at the exploded diagrams in the book, and am still no wiser about how I remove the ball and broken end before fitting the replacement end, which I already have. I have an awful feeling I'll have to tear the thing down. Anybody done it and can tell me how to do this and where to start, please?? Thanks in advance.

Well the carpal tunnel surgery is 5 weeks ago and my hand is as good as its going to get. I left it too long to get done and have a second finger that is still numb, the surgeon did warn me it was likely to late to save that. While I'm waiting to see if they'll replace my right knee. A medical issue may delay/postpone the operation due a week tomorrow, I thought I'd get on replacing the axles. This pm I've done the rear and what a beggar of a job getting the universal joint off the old one, then I found I needed to remove a circlip on the new one to enable the holes to line up. At least it's done. I used 2million cst in the differential, and will use the same on the front. Pictures once I have it all done!

My 2 pennorth. I run everything I have, Scalers, Rock Crawlers, Rock Bouncer and Rally on at least 1S lower than the maker says it'll take. My Axial RBX10 Ryft is huge fun on 2S and bananas on 3S yet Axial recommend 3-4S. My thought is if any maker say it will take 4S, then it will and they'll expect to be selling you plenty of spares/upgrades. If you don't mind the cash and spanner wrenching then by all means go for broke on power.

You can get a cream for that!

Well the rear axle arrived pretty quickly and a perfectly reasonable request for me to return the 'spare' axle. Sadly I was due for a minor hand operation the next day and so am housebound until it heals sufficiently for me to assemble and so use my mobility scooter to get to the post office. (In use as I'm also waiting for a knee replacement!). Despite the seller declanrose on ebay asking me a couple of times to return it, he has yet to give me the return address. So in anticipation of getting out and about in the near future I've asked him for the address for the third time! Once the hand is healed my first job is going to be the installation of softer springs, the metal axles, metal skid plate and metal body panels. More once it's done.

They're too top heavy for fast cornering. Try shorter dampers or tie down the ones you have. I use mine as a Rock Bouncer so need the full stroke suspension. I fitted the sway bar to keep the front right down under brisk acceleration. Which it does.

Well, my prebuilt all metal axles and housings arrived only to disappoint, as they'd sent me two front axles! The quality looks good and I'll report back once the rear one arrives from China, and I've recovered from my Carpal Tunnel Surgery, slated for Monday.

Great, thanks a lot. I looked and looked on modelsport.co.uk and couldn't see them. Age, you know. 👍

I've ordered the metal pre built axles, I have hand problems, so it'll be easier for me. Next question. Does anyone have a link for straight steering rods, it seems, from reading this thread, that the stock ones are a weakness? Much appreciated. P. S. Once I have the new axles fitted I'll post a few pictures.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234604522918?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=0gw8oxr8sao&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=i0t0lWx1Rp6&var=534251667818&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL This. Cheers.

I've seen metal axle housings fully built, on boithe Amazon uk and eBay. several sellers all in China. Has anyone bought one/both axles and are they any good and so worth the money? (About £75 each)

I've just fitted the rear sway bar and was all set to remove the silver diff cap, to go to 2million cst, when I realised its a dummy. Can anyone tell me if I need to remove the axle and take the other side off to change cst?

So, I'm running mine on 2s or 3s, and climbing rocks with some enthusiasm! What is the collective wisdom on filling the Differentials with 2million cst oil*. *Nominally oil, it looks very thick!

Buying a long list from different sellers will soon add a lot of postage! If you can get a whole car, maybe one with fried electrics but otherwose sound it may trurn out to be cheaper, or at least not much more expensive with the edd benefit of a chassis to cannibalise in future.

I took my new Ryft for a run, on 2S for the first session. Wow! What would it be like on 4S??? I have no plans for using 4S,but have a 3S for next time. 🤞🙄😚

Well I got a run in on my new Ryft this morning. Only used a 2S battery and WOW! On wet long ish grass, last cut in early October, the right front wheel came up under full acceleration until she was flying along and on the wet road with only a little lift of that wheel it was flying! I tried it on 50% and 75% too and 75% still lifted that wheel on the grass While 50% tamed it into what felt like a fast Rock Crawler. Yet it will crawl along and climb over the leg supports of our garden coffee table with ease. Looking forward to taking it the RC Adventures Shildon soon to try it on the rocks! Plus, my 3S battery will get an outing. 🤔

Wow, that was fast. Many thanks @ReggieC.

Hi, I'm looking to build a rock crawler and have been recommended to use a Hobbywing 1080 esc. Can I use pretty much any modern controller with that, I have a couple of Absima 3 channel ones to hand? Sorry if this is a dumb question but I'm still learning. TIA

You've tempted me to consider a kit! As I have arthritis and Carpal Tunnel syndrome in my left hand can you tell me just how difficult it was to build?

I am the proud (well chuffed as little teacakes really!) owner of both, although the TRX 4 Landrover has only had a test run around the garden so far. Both will run on NiMh batteries meaning no faffing around maintaining the charge on Lipos if stored for a while.

Absima Khamba has the option to run open diff, and either the front locked, the rear locked or both locked. They are independently switched. The TRX4 has open, front locked, and then both locked. They are sequentially switched. Which may do it for you but the Absima one allows more options.

So definitely only a GOM under consideration.

Interesting! I'm quite tempted by either the GOM or R1 in RTR form. My hands don't work too well these days, so while I can strip and rebuild as needed I avoid the first build whenever possible.