Paulnb57

Wondering about the sway bar and its affect on handling My first run was on 3S and Hobbywing Fusion, my word its quick!….but it falls over turning under power, a lot, so I ordered 120mm shocks, Desert Lizards and set them up for droop, 1/3 spring height above the shock piston and 2/3 below, the front axle just clears the bottom of the cage on full compression. It is now significantly lower and turns better, but is still quite prone to lying down for a rest when cornering hard… I think I will disconnect the sway bar and see if it makes any difference, I doubt there will be much torque twist with the ridiculous amount of droop I have Theres is obvs a learning curve to get the best of of this beast Im wondering if the sway bar affects cornering? Perhaps the tyres are too grippy? Thoughts? Treal links and servo saver Hobbywing Fusion/3S 120mm Desert Lizard shocks, set up for droop (not full droop) with longer lower links, 30 weight oil which is probably a bit too thick, might try 15, 4 hole pistons, medium top spring, soft lower…

Thanks!

Just about finished my Ryft kit, need to tidy the wiring and paint the body panels, but I have a question, where the upper links mount on the chassis frame there are height options, to raise the link pivot point up or down, what difference does moving the links make? Cheers!

Im looking for a bit more scale than tue Kamtec Good suggestion though, they have their place…

WTB please any variant of Tamiya Beetle body, Blitzer, Scorcher, Monster A long shot, but if you dont ask…. Now sorted, thanks to those who messaged

Yes please, Ill message you

@53HRA Thank you!

A bit of an odd request, Im looking for two matching Nitro car cylinder heads for a project where Im making a dummy vee twin engine and the two cylinder heads will become the “cylinders”, so it doesn't matter what they are as long as they are the same. Have a rummage ladies and gents! Thank you..

Thanks, no idea of the part you describe, so off for a surf, they look like they could work, thanks!

Not exactly, but I could possibly make it work, thanks!

I have a project in mind (reverse trike) that needs a non driven wheel hub, that will take an SCX10 style wheel, think motorcycle wheel, hub bearing each side, axle through, except instead of spokes a flange to take the RC wheel Does such a thing exist please? Thank you!

They are Axial 50 mailed?

Ive got these jokers, assembled but never used, make me an offer?

Wanted please Gmade R1 transmission set (GM51200) in good usable condition.

Epic fail! The motors are too long and collide with the suspension links! Real shame as it could have been a nice compact low cg set up....

How does a chap apply this wrap?

Yes please? pm’d

A bit more progress, I bought another chassis cage ( they are dirt cheap) and painted it, then swapped everything over, stripped the axles, replaced and greased all the bearings, rebuilt with loctite. Its all wired now, the wiring needs a bit of tidying, plugged a battery in and each ESC bleeped, but I still have to calibrate them....Im not happy with the body panels I made, so Ill faff around some more, or possibly pop a Kamtec Beetle body on it.....need to source suitable sized Lipo to fit and its pretty much done. With the widest wheel hubs fitted the tyres dont rub on the links Less waffle...photos!

pm’d Ill take all 4

Iain, Im a bit confused how many you have in total...are they all right hand thread?

Steering is now limited by the links and shocks as the wheels foul on them on full lock, not sure whether to live with it or source wheel spacers and put extra strain on bearings/ kingpins....

Much betterer, like chalk and cheese...

No worries Stimpy, I made contact with Pat, we discussed spec, agreed he would make me up a shafty “kit”, incredibly difficult to deal with, after a couple of months I got bored and gave up....

Postie just dropped the delrin skid plate through the letterbox, so Ive fitted it....inexpected bonus, it moves the lower links from the edge of the chassis, onboard so I get loads more steering lock = winner! Before ( the plate is upside down for ease of access to the captive nuts if necessary, see previous post!) After......result!

A little more progress, the front motor was fouling on the bottom corners of the chassis on compression, I briefly considered chopping the chassis, but instead sourced longer links, same as the rear, 107mm at the bottom and 80mm at the top, (I have been donated a pair of 107mm higher clearance links, for the rear but have yet to go and pick them up.....) along with a combination of long and short ends got the motors pretty level.....one of the body side panels cracked at the crease, so Ill have to remake them, probably a bit thicker, Im considering extending them right up to the front of the chassis too, just to be a bit different.....Im also considering putting a proper body on it too, who knows?! The skid has captive nuts and when I was faffing with link lengths one of the screws had locked solid into a nut, no idea why, I had to dremel through the screw head, and ended up having to cut the skid to get the nut out, deep joy! So now there is a Delrin skid plate in the mail.... ESC’s are in, front double taped under the “bonnet” (hood) the rear double under the rear battery tray .....keeps the wiring tidy.....not decided where the rx will go yet, but Im hoping to keep the “cab” clear so I can put a basic interior and driver in there....its a bit long!... Ive messed with rod ends since the photos were taken and the front motor is now pretty level... Stay tuned for more Rock n Roll!