Major maintenance needed for my TRX-4

[wolfie1]

Just get all the gears soda blasted, save yourself a fortune

[DartmoorTrails]

I use marine grease in my axles and have salvaged after an impromptu run in salt water just about; a soak in wd40 overnight to remove the remaining mess after a wipe down with alcohol has saved me some ££ in the past. No saving bearings though.

[Jens]

2 hours ago, DartmoorTrails said:

I use marine grease in my axles and have salvaged after an impromptu run in salt water just about; a soak in wd40 overnight to remove the remaining mess after a wipe down with alcohol has saved me some ££ in the past. No saving bearings though.

Well, I found a reasonable priced (£30) ball bearing set on ebay to replace all 40 bearings.

And I already ordered most of the gears.

But with your advice (and the soda blasting option) I will keep the old gears to see if I can renew them.

Always good to keep some spares.

 

Right greasing is something that also came to my mind.

But I am not sure which would be the best.

Red and Tacky came to my mind, but not sure if it is suitable for every location.

 

These are the locations for grease:

1. Gearbox   gears    (Red & Tacky tbd)

2. Differential gears   (Red & Tacky tbd)

3. Portal gears  (Red & Tacky tbd)

4. Axle shafts   (Red & Tacky)

5. Ball bearings   (Red & Tacky)

6. Sealing the boxes (silicone lube between, silicone on    the outside)

I remember from decades ago when I was fixing my own car, there is a liquid   seal that can seal a cylinder head to the engine block. Wonder if that is still around. It was blue in color. Need to research.

 

For the gears: Is Red & Tacky suitable???

 

Just to mention I will take the car apart down to its last screw.

 

Then for daily maintenance I would use spray grease after washing and drying.

 

[Jens]

Just found that blue sealant.

Hylomar Blue (www.hylomar.com).

Developed by Rolls Royce for their aircraft engines.

It is    used to replace      gaskets.

And since the new housings will be aluminum I can use that to seal the differentials, portals and the gear box.

 

Am I going too extreme?

Is it paranoia?

[Andy-Roo]

I’d just use the right grease, like Dartmoor Trails said. The Hylomar, once it has gone off could just break away and bind up the gears in the portals and transmission (it does the same in 1:1 engines, as I found out in my yoof). 

I really don’t think you’ll seal it effectively and waterproof grease is the best way of tackling the problem. 

[Jens]

2 minutes ago, Andy-Roo said:

I’d just use the right grease, like Dartmoor Trails said. The Hylomar, once it has gone off could just break away and bind up the gears in the portals and transmission (it does the same in 1:1 engines, as I found out in my yoof). 

I really don’t think you’ll seal it effectively and waterproof grease is the best way of tackling the problem. 

Makes sense.

Which would the right grease?

I read somewhere else here Red & Tacky would be suitable for diffs.

[Andy-Roo]

49 minutes ago, Jens said:

Makes sense.

Which would the right grease?

I read somewhere else here Red & Tacky would be suitable for diffs.

I use this in my diffs and smear it on the axle shafts, and spray bearings with GT85.

[Jens]

8 minutes ago, Andy-Roo said:

I use this in my diffs and smear it on the axle shafts, and spray bearings with GT85.

 

Thanks!

 

I could continue a bit of my dismantling process.

Even the tiny servo screws are rusted.

Lots of dirt even below the receiver box and the ESC.

And the main frame caught it as well.

Have to use rust converter on all non-moving parts...

 

[Andy-Roo]

If it were me, I’d clean off the rust as best I could, replace what can’t be salvaged and then just use it.  It’ll never look new again without a fortune being spent so I’d just use it as a beater and have fun with it 👍

[Jens]

No Way!   

That was my birthday present, wished to return to RC for years and on top it's Mercedes G500.

And working for Daimler    I must value every Mercedes. Even 1/10th scale! 😎😎😎

 

Just took the remaining pieces apart.

Rear diff and transmission are ok.

Just everything filthy around.

 

I will look now that I can get an alloy transmission box.

 

I shall now consider this an Upgrade and not salvage    anymore.   

And it's going to be fun for the winter months.

[Jens]

Found this alloy motor mount and transmission box.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001352582946.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.7dde3c00tuD7Po&mp=1

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000154472757.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.7dde3c00tuD7Po&mp=1

Looks like a good choice.

[Jens]

I am still struggeling to get the one last piece for my car.

Front and rear driveshafts.

 

It looks like my pickyness gives me a problem now.

But hopefully somebody can guide me in the right direction.

 

I want to replace the plastic driveshafts with stainless steel ones.

 

The sizes are    85-95mm and 100-120mm (313mm wheelbase).

(shorter than the Defenders for 324mm).

 

They should be stainless steel and have a kardan joint.

I am not really a fan of ball joints.

 

So far I found some at Aliexpress by D1RC.

But they are currently unavailable.

 

Does anybody have a hint where to get what I want?

[M and M]

Hylomar does'nt go off like silicone, used it for years in the motor trade. Use it spareingly tho.

[Jens]

6 minutes ago, M and M said:

Hylomar does'nt go off like silicone, used it for years in the motor trade. Use it spareingly tho.

Thank you for the advice.

I will look into that again, when it is time and probably get some good hints from a nearby car mechanic. 🙂

As far as I know, only a very thin film should be applied on both sides, wait for it to dry, remove excess and then press together...