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hobbywing 1060 brushed ESC woes


ManicZ

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so I fitted the esc, servo and receiver in my 144001, was chuffed I managed to do it without too much trouble, took it out for the maiden voyage , ran for about a minute or 2 and esc kicks into limp mode which only gives  half the power. Anybody know how to sort this problem? is the esc a dud? should I send it back to modelsport and get a replacement/refund? cheers

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I've heard of people having that issue. 

 

Your ESC is not a dud. 

 

 

 

I'm pretty certain that it's your battery. Slowing down to 50% is the first stage of Low Voltage Cutoff. Do you have a battery checker? If so, run it until it goes into limp mode and then check cell voltage. I bet money that the cells sagged below 3.6v (which iirc is where the first stage LVC kicks in). I might mix something up here, didn't you have a second battery? 

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6v is dangerously low. That's 3v per cell, which is already 0.2v-0.3v below the absolute maximum you're supposed to be discharging to (per cell). Over time, this will damage you battery. 

 

A fully charged 2s should be 8.4v, my low voltage cutoff kicks in at around 6.6v-6.8v. After it cuts, the battery is supposed to return to it's nominal voltage (more or less), to around 7.2v-7.4v. I don't know your RC or the batteries that come with it, but to me personally it sounds a bit like chinese special. What i'd suggest, is get a 2s LiPo from Hobbyking that fits the buggy (i don't know tray size), at around 2500mah and probably around 30-40C discharge. Can't be more than £15. 

 

My best guess is that your battery is overrated, (almost) instantly sags below 3.6v under load and leads to the ESC activating its first stage LVC. The battery then recovers to above that voltage (when you turn it off and back on again). You can try that by driving on "low" throttle, see how long it lasts then. 

 

The cap kit kinda confirms that. It's basically just there to prevent battery sagging under throttle by discharging the caps first rather than pulling everything from the battery instantly (which leads to them sagging and potentially springing LVC). 

 

Just to re-iterate, it's one of the best and well loved brushed ESCs out there, especially for the price. I've run two myself, and still run two 1080s as well - though, all with higher powered batteries.

Edited by m4inbrain
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yeah sorry I meant 7v, battery is Chinese but its OK I can get about 15 mins on old esc and on my other car, I got a 2600mah with this car but it has a weak cell and I'm currently waiting on a replacement to arrive

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I'm relatively sure that it'll run proper with the 2600 replacement even without cap pack. 

 

With the old ESC, that's probably because it doesn't have a "first stage LVC". I don't think you can deactivate the first stage LVC on the 1060 without disabling LVC altogether - which obviously i wouldn't suggest. If you had a LiPo alarm, you could try something out, but as is, risk of blowing up the battery is a bit too high. 

 

If it only cuts at, lets say, 6.6v, your battery might've sagged to 7v leaving the ESC to just continue running. Whereas those 7v already trip the limp mode on the 1060. 

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Just now, ManicZ said:

I'll do some more testing tomorrow and update you on the results, cheers for your help, I'll hold off on the cap pack for now and wait for the new battery 👍

 

Yeah, let me know - and yeah, i'd suggest that.

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Mine did this. New 2x overlander nimh batteries, stock silver can or sport tuned, didn't matter.

They've changed something with this esc. They used to be good, but now they are unreliable junk.

It's put me off buying the 1080 for my crawlers.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

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tried it on the best battery I have and it definitely lasted longer, when checking the voltage after the change to limp mode, 1cell 3.79v 2cell 3.79v overall 7.58v? so the esc shouldn't go into LVC?

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