hey peeps, can someone please help me with a query ?

[ManicZ]

Hi all, New here and fairly new to rc, i have had a wltoys a959-b that I gave a fully metal upgrade for about 2 years but have recently ordered the wltoys 144001, also purchased an flysky FS-GT5 transmitter and FS-BS6 receiver, I was wondering if it would work 

with the 144001 and would I need to also replace the ESC? or will the transmitter bind with the stock ESC/receiver combo?  thanks and happy to be here

Edited September 6, 2020 by ManicZ
added to title

[Stormbringer]

Hi and welcome to the forum 🍻

As for you query im sorry no idea 

[ManicZ]

Hi, thanks, no worries

[GorillaZilla]

the wltoys a959-b and wltoys 144001 look like they use  all in one combined receiver and Electronic speed controllers (E.S.C) so the standalone receiver won't work with them,  so you'd have to replace the ESC,   and plan out where everything is going with the new electronics.

 

 

 

Edited September 6, 2020 by GorillaZilla

[GorillaZilla]

And as for full metal upgrade,  metal A-Arms are best avoided,  plastic is a lot better there.  you want the flex in the plastic to absorb impacts.   Metal just bends if there is no tough flexible plastic to bend take the hits and snap back. 

 

You will get a tougher car if you Limit metal parts to the likes of Steering Knuckles,  Chubs.  and  Arm hingepin holders,  and only if the stock parts are poorly built and weak.

Edited September 6, 2020 by GorillaZilla

[GorillaZilla]

10 hours ago, ManicZ said:

Hi all, New here and fairly new to rc, i have had a wltoys a959-b that I gave a fully metal upgrade for about 2 years but have recently ordered the wltoys 144001, also purchased an flysky FS-GT5 transmitter and FS-BS6 receiver, I was wondering if it would work 

with the 144001 and would I need to also replace the ESC? or will the transmitter bind with the stock ESC/receiver combo?  thanks and happy to be here

Also pretty sure the radio will not bind with the All in one ESCs,   They use a wierd non standard system https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=43101111&postcount=65

[ManicZ]

hi, thanks GorillaZilla, i thought that I would have to buy a new ESC now its just a question of what one to get that will work with the 550 brushed motor and the Tx/Rx that I have purchased?  I will end up getting brushless motor at some point in the future anyway so will have to change esc again?

Edited September 7, 2020 by ManicZ

[m4inbrain]

Okay, i'll play partypooper. 

 

First: if you want to change the radio/receiver, you need a new ESC. In your RC, the ESC is combined with the receiver. So changing either ESC or receiver requires you to change the other item as well. As if that wasn't enough, the same goes for the steering servo too. The steering servo is incompatible with proper receivers, meaning you have to change pretty much all electronics in the buggy if you intend to change a single thing. You can't just replace ESC, receiver or servo. 

 

Second, buying a brushed system now, and then later down the line upgrade to brushless doesn't make sense, unless you want to waste money. Most decent brushed ESCs don't support brushless motors, and most cheap brushless systems don't support brushed motors either. Buying a quality motors/esc combo is a waste, with that you'd be looking at close to what you paid originally for the buggy. 

 

You also need a new pinion, because currently you're using a 27t pinion which is way too high for a brushless system.

 

https://www.quadifyrc.com/rccarreviews/wl-toys-144001-ultimate-brushless-upgrade-guide

 

That's a how to brushless conversion for your particular RC, including a listing for all parts you need.

[ManicZ]

hi m4inbrain, thanks, on doing my own research I too came across this guide which I will do in the future but as for now I'm on a strict budget so I'm sticking with the stock motor, I just wanted more range than the stock transmitter hence purchasing the gt5. I now need to find  a fairly cheap esc and servo that will be compatible, any ideas? thanks again

[m4inbrain]

3 minutes ago, ManicZ said:

hi m4inbrain, thanks, on doing my own research I too came across this guide which I will do in the future but as for now I'm on a strict budget so I'm sticking with the stock motor, I just wanted more range than the stock transmitter hence purchasing the gt5. I now need to find  a fairly cheap esc and servo that will be compatible, any ideas? thanks again

 

Not for the servo, the RCs i do research into are on the opposite side of the size-scale (1/8th being the smallest RCs i have). 

 

For the ESC, you can never go wrong with a Hobbwying 1060. Quality ESC, not that expensive. For the servo, the guide suggests/links one, for lack of better knowledge i'd suggest that one.

[ManicZ]

thats the esc I'm looking at but converting it to deans connector is what worries me

[m4inbrain]

What exactly is worrying?

[ManicZ]

never done it

[m4inbrain]

Well, not sure that i follow - it's just cutting the tamiya connector off, and soldering a deans to it?

 

There's no current on the connector (obviously), so i'm not sure why you'd be worried. Have you never soldered? If not, this now is a good opportunity to get started with it, it's a pretty essential "skill" in the hobby. 

 

If you want to go the easy route (i'd advise against it - again, being able to solder is pretty important, will be important again when converting to brushless).. There's two options. You can buy the ESC with whatever connector it comes with, and additionally buy an adaptor like this:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tamiya-Connector-Deans-Controller-Battery/dp/B01FVXVYLY

 

Or, more elegant, but still a wasted opportunity - if you order at modelsport, on the right side you can choose a different connector, modelsport solders it for you at additional cost (under "purchase options").

 

edit: the only thing you need to be aware of when soldering a connector is that negative/positive goes onto the correct terminal, which is simple to figure out by just looking at the connectors). Other than that, with deans, it's cutting the original connector off, stripping the wires, tinning the wires, slide heatshrink all the way down the cable, check orientation of the deans connector - pre-tin the deans, and then just put them together. Pull heatshrink back up, shrink it, done. 

 

Soldering battery terminals is a bit more "involved", and requires a decent degree of care and preparation - soldering an ESC connector on the other hand is pretty much the simplest thing you can start out with.

 

Edited September 7, 2020 by m4inbrain

[m4inbrain]

 

 

In case you want to give it a shot. 

[ManicZ]

I would love to try but like I said I'm on a strict budget right now (which I have already exceeded lol) but I would need to purchase soldering equipment as I don't have any, might have to go with  modelsport for now. when my financial situation is back on track I will go with all the right choices. thanks  for all your help

[m4inbrain]

Fair enough, without an iron, soldering obviously ain't happening. In that case i'd have modelsport solder it, rather than using an adaptor. 

[ManicZ]

purchasing as we speak before I sleep and thanks again

[m4inbrain]

👍

[ManicZ]

hi again, the Hobbywing 1060 esc  arrived but reading the specs it says that 12t or <30000 rpm motor is the limit for 2s 18t and <20000 for 3s? I know that the pinion is 27t but I don't know the rpm of the 550 motor, will I burn out the esc? cheers

ah I just found somewhere that says the motor is 20000 rpm so should that be ok for both 2 and 3s lipo's? thanks again

Edited September 8, 2020 by ManicZ

[m4inbrain]

2 hours ago, ManicZ said:

hi again, the Hobbywing 1060 esc  arrived but reading the specs it says that 12t or <30000 rpm motor is the limit for 2s 18t and <20000 for 3s? I know that the pinion is 27t but I don't know the rpm of the 550 motor, will I burn out the esc? cheers

ah I just found somewhere that says the motor is 20000 rpm so should that be ok for both 2 and 3s lipo's? thanks again

 

You got it slightly wrong here, but can't blame you - it's confusing. The "t" in this case doesn't stand for "tooth" on the pinion (you got a 27t pinion) but for the internal windings of your motor. In this case it stands for "turns". 

 

Simplified, it's basically describing how often that copper wire is wound around your motor. I can't tell you how many turns your motor has (as i said, the pinion doesn't matter), but i assume that if the cheapie ESC that was in there before was good enough, the 1060 will be plenty. Generally, the less windings a motor has, the faster it is - and vice versa. That's why crawler motors start at like 21t (up to like 55t and higher), whereas buggies etc run 12t-15t, or windings. If i'm not entirely mistaken, 25000rpm is roughly a 12t motor. That's as far as i have knowledge - if you say it's 20.000rpm, it would probably be around 15t, maybe? 

 

I honestly can't answer that with certainty. But i know that if the cheapie ESC in that RC was able to cope, a 1060 will too. Zero doubt in my mind.

[ManicZ]

nice one, thats why I'm on this forum, to learn. cheers

[m4inbrain]

Have fun 👍

[ManicZ]

will do

[Crowster]

I was kind of trippin on the same ****..I was just wondering if there's a way to go brushless with my wltoys 284131 which also uses a combo receiver/esc if I could tap into the circuit board and modify it so it's just a receiver and I could just solder in my brushless system but it's looking like after purchasing a brushless motor and esc I'm going to have to just purchase another transmitter and receiver and 3 wire servo...might as well huh.....