cupra313 Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 So,i got a switchblade killswitch on my 30DNT, it run fine in the beginning but after that it started killing the engine right when it started! I checked the wiring on the killswitch and it's fine I swapped out another tx/rx and did the same thing I installed a capacitor (10v 4700μF) and now drives for 4-5 minutes and kills the engine again. If i restart it,it drives for 1 minute and gets killed again. I changed spark plug, same thing. I swapped the dm4000 on the throttle with an old hitec 805 i had ten years ago.It run for some time then started jittering and doing some weird things and at the end it got killed again.I dont know if the servo is bad as it s been sitting for 10 years or something else. I dont know if it's a bad killswitch,a servo or the battery and i surely cant start throwing money at parts that may or may not need replacing...Please help guys, as i am ready to bin the whole thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mond Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 What battery are you running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalex Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 (edited) What light flash is the killswitch making, it tells u why its cut off. Check end points on channel 3. Try with both servos disconnected, then if it runs okay connect one at a time if its a low battery cut out, could be an old tired battery or servo. If its a range cut out then check the battery and range of the tx/rx If its ****ed then try Jolly Roger on here as he makes them. Cheers Dave Edited March 4, 2019 by dalex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 (edited) To me...that screams bad battery. Low voltage on the killswitch would trigger it as you would get brownouts from the servos pulling power. You swapped out the radio gear and the problem remained, so unless boith sets were faulty....that rules that out. I guess you tried the radio in another application with no problems....so that should be good. You have tried 2 different throttle servos, and the problem parsisted. Again...both servos could be faulty, but jittery behaviour from the second servo after it ran fine for a bit would again indicate to me the possibility that you have a power issue. Fitting a capacitor would prop up the voltage supplied to the system, which would explain why you got a bit of runtime with one in there. Sparkplug would not have any impact on the killswitch or it's operation. It can cause other running issues, but not trigger a killswitch. Few questions though. How old is the truck...did you buy it new...and how much use have the battery/servos had? Here's a few things you can do to test stuff. 1) You get flashing lights on the killswitch when it triggers...so you don;t actually need to run the motor to test things. Or....for ease...start the motor but disconnect the throttle servo arm. 2) Work the throttle servo a bit and see how long it is before the kill switch triggers. Leave the steering alone comlpetely. 3) Then do the same but operate the steering only. 4) Repeat with both. I would do this with the car static as you can't easily do this when it's moving. You want to see if what the servos do has any impact on the thing. Steering servos pull more power than the throttle...so a faulty steering servo could drain the battery fast. Edited March 5, 2019 by Nitroholic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cupra313 Posted March 5, 2019 Author Share Posted March 5, 2019 Guys thanx for the replies! I ve been fighting this problem on and off for about 2 months.I bought the truck new when it came out from rcmodelz, a year plus something ago.I hasn't been run much, 10-12 tanks at most... I have tried a lot of different things to solve this thing.Unfortunately i cant remember the light sequence, i will get a video of it tomorrow that i ll take it out again. As for the servos,i have tried with the engine off the same hitec servo on both steering and throttle.Each time the kill switch kicked in, at random moments. I changed the spark plug in case the resistor has gone bad and the interference bugged the kill switch... No bueno either From the moment i got the truck in my hands i didnt like that stupid plug between the bat and the receiver. Yesterday i changed back the servos and turned it on to set them and take it out to record the light sequence. To my surprise it wasnt getting any power! I moved the said connector and the electronics lit up! So i stripped all the wiring, i soldered new heavy duty wires and 4mm bullets. I will take it out tomorrow,if it does it again then as you said it's the battery....There isnt anything else to be! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 Sounds to me like you have found a very good candidate for the problem. A bad connector could give all sorts of issues when running... and all it would take would be a jiggle of the wires and no power to the killswitch.... On the plus side....it's just as well you DID run a killswitch...as that could have come loose any time and killed power to the servos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cupra313 Posted March 6, 2019 Author Share Posted March 6, 2019 Good candidate nevertheless but, unfortunately not guilty....It did it again with the new wiring.... This time did something a little different....My steering servo was jittering and some times even flicking on each own, As i moved the transmitter closer to the receiver the jittering was stopping and starting again as i moved it away....You will say signal problem, but this time i got the code from the kill switch led. A double pulse. If i remember right, that's battery voltage dropping below level, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cupra313 Posted March 6, 2019 Author Share Posted March 6, 2019 Actually these are the instructions that came with the unit (not my photo). They are not very helpful. I dont see a code for low voltage and the double pulse i get,says it's pre arm??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freedivercam Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 So have you tried a different battery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cupra313 Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 (edited) I am getting really sick of this thing....I didnt have another nimh to test, neither did my buddies. I read somewhere on here that the switch blade doesnt get along with lipos, so... I 3d printed 2 type c battery holders, wired them in series, bought some brand new toshibas and off i went! Guess what.... At 4 minutes the kill switch kicked in! This cant be happening! I dont know what else to do!! My patience has run dry.... Now that my baja is on it's way i ll probably bin it and let it rust in some corner Edit: now that i think about it, i used 4xtype-c batts meaning 4x1.5v=6v.... I should have used 5 to get 7.5v? Edited March 11, 2019 by cupra313 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolly_roger_uk Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 If you are getting pre-arm mode, then the Switchblade is resetting. This is 100% due to an excessive drop in battery voltage. Various things can cause this, but I’ll list the most likely.... 1. Power switch (yes the switch itself). Sometimes these switches go bad. All it takes is a slight ‘bounce’ in the contact or a bad contact to start with and you’ll have running problems. If you have a bad contact, they can often be bad enough to drop a voltage across them, making the voltage at the receiver artificially low. 2. Bad / weak battery (the obvious one) 3. High power servos. Sometimes when running high power (high current) servos, the high current causes a large voltage drop across the power switch and wire to the receiver, especially in dual servo steering setups. This can in most cases be resolved with an anti-brownout capacitor, but a direct power harness is the better option. 4. Faulty servos. A faulty servo a draw very high current, again causing a large voltage drop. First, I would suggest ruling out the power switch. Try bypassing it by connecting the battery directly into the receiver. Then replace the battery. 4 x C cells ain’t gonna cut it. Go with a 2S LiPo. I don’t know where you read that the Switchblade has issues with Lipo, they are 100% compatible and I recommend them. feel free to contact me via PM. Rest assured, we WILL get to the bottom of this issue. If I thought the Switchblade was faulty, I would replace it for you, but from your description of the problem I honestly think that it’s just doing its job. Most important!! ....... Don’t lose heart, sometime these things are sent to try us Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Rechargable NiMh cells are really only 1.2V, so 5 of them is 6V. If you have used 4 rechargeable cells...really...you only got 4.8V, which won't handle the loads needed for very long before the voltage drop will make the killswitch kick in. Not all my electrics can handle 7.4V .... so I tend to use 2S LiFe packs, which give 6.6V, but have the same sort of power delivery which doesn;t drop off a cliff under load. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cupra313 Posted March 12, 2019 Author Share Posted March 12, 2019 (edited) @Lee thank you very much for the answer! Greatly appreciated taking the time to look in to my problem! I m glad i bought another switchblade for my baja! Now on to the problem,i will ditch the switch all together and i ll plug the battery straight through. I will get a 2s lipo,run the servos directly of the battery and run the receiver through a bec. i cant find a life battery big enough in Greece unfortunately. @nitroholic i know,the cells i bought aren t rechargable and they are rated for 1.5v each. I dont know if the receiver could handle 7.5v to add another cell to test it Edit: just found and ordered a life 3600mah battery,so no separate cables and no bec, yay Edited March 12, 2019 by cupra313 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cupra313 Posted March 17, 2019 Author Share Posted March 17, 2019 Well it's not the battery....And it's not the switch...Plugged the life straight to the rx and as before at 3 to 4 minutes it switched off! So i guess i m starting throwing money at servos now right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cupra313 Posted July 21, 2019 Author Share Posted July 21, 2019 Update Since now i have done the following with no difference what so ever! 1.changed the nimh batt to a brand new 6.6 life 2.new wiring from batt to receiver and eliminated switch 3.eliminated the kill button on the engine 4.Re soldered the kill switch to the coil wires 5.Tried 2 new servos 6.Tried 3 receivers and 2 transmitters Also i was having servo lag and glitches with my homemade brown out plug so i removed that as well.With the brownout it seemed to work for a couple more minutes though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolly_roger_uk Posted July 21, 2019 Share Posted July 21, 2019 Please feel free to send back the switchblade to me. I would like to test it for you. Any issues, it will get replaced. PM me for address. Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cupra313 Posted July 22, 2019 Author Share Posted July 22, 2019 (edited) 17 hours ago, Jolly_roger_uk said: Please feel free to send back the switchblade to me. I would like to test it for you. Any issues, it will get replaced. PM me for address. Lee Thank you Lee. I will try something else today and if that fails too i 'll send it to you.After rcmodelz recommendation i will wire the servos directly to the battery and see if the amp draw on the receiver is the problem Edited July 22, 2019 by cupra313 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cupra313 Posted July 22, 2019 Author Share Posted July 22, 2019 Update,wired the servos to the battery,nothing changed,my patience has run out,this is bs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hojoos Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 What light flash is the killswitch making, it tells u why its cut off. Check end points on channel 3. Try with both servos disconnected, then if it runs okay connect one at a time if its a low battery cut out, could be an old tired battery or servo. If its a range cut out then check the battery and range of the tx/rx If its ****ed then try Jolly Roger on here as he makes them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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