cupra313

Update,wired the servos to the battery,nothing changed,my patience has run out,this is bs

Thank you Lee. I will try something else today and if that fails too i 'll send it to you.After rcmodelz recommendation i will wire the servos directly to the battery and see if the amp draw on the receiver is the problem

Update Since now i have done the following with no difference what so ever! 1.changed the nimh batt to a brand new 6.6 life 2.new wiring from batt to receiver and eliminated switch 3.eliminated the kill button on the engine 4.Re soldered the kill switch to the coil wires 5.Tried 2 new servos 6.Tried 3 receivers and 2 transmitters Also i was having servo lag and glitches with my homemade brown out plug so i removed that as well.With the brownout it seemed to work for a couple more minutes though

Some progress had been made,forgot to update here msuk now doesnt want to show the photos. they are posted the exact same way as above...Well whatever

Yeah,i can also use 2 motors on the same tranny,as i am going to use an scx10 tranny and there is already a dual motor plate for it.I will first try my hobbywing 1080 and 550 55t motor and see how it goes though I am thinking this option as well.... Made some progress...Chassis is braced,diffs are on and lower links done!

Well,it started....This thing comes out way bigger than i anticipated...I dont know if a single 55t motor will push it

Yeah,awesome tire,but too damn expensive!I need at least 8,maybe 10 of them!I m looking at 145 pounds!!!

Thanx mate,appreciated! Yeah,it's gonna be a little over 1 meter.I wanted to make it bigger but the wheel diameter restricted me. Also,does anyone have any other tire to suggest than the ftx mauler's i'm going with?It has to be 140mm

Well,it was inevitable....Since my first 3d printed trail truck,a 1/10 reo M35A2 was such a huge success,both in looks and in driveability,show must go on! So,this time the truck to make is an oshkosh hemtt. The hardest parts which is the designing,is done. I was designing it for months now,both the body and the chassis. It came out at 1054x300x300 which is a little wider that the real thing but,it has to perform too. It will roll on 2.2s with 140mm tires, hobbywing 1080 550 motor and 3s. I have already ordered the shocks, the diffs, the aluminium for the chassis and a new 3D printer! First a photo of the reo, for whoever hasn't seen it and then the hemtt

update the range problem insists and it keeps melting the cage even with exhaust wrap on

Yeah i know,i did a research on the subject. Firstly i opened up the rx to make sure that the antenna wire wasn't de-soldered, it was fine. Then the inner wire was already outside the tube. Nevertheless i exposed some more inner wire. I haven't tested it since, if i have the time,i will tomorrow

It s the stock radio. A flysky gt3b. It may not be a lot of things, but 2.4ghz is Edit: yeap on both, changed the batteries 2 times in the tx. Tried both recharchable AA s and brand new energizers

Well it started life as a rovan stealth baja a week ago and now i have this.The problem is the exhaust melted some parts of the rear cage. Rcmodelz failed to inform me that the blade cage and this exhaust are almost incompatible, given that they suggested a stealth and a blade cage because the original triton blade is out of stock. I could have bought another exhaust but anyways... The second problem is the range. At about 12-15 meters the servos start to lag and beyond that signal cuts out and the kill switch engages...

Well it's not the battery....And it's not the switch...Plugged the life straight to the rx and as before at 3 to 4 minutes it switched off! So i guess i m starting throwing money at servos now right?

@Lee thank you very much for the answer! Greatly appreciated taking the time to look in to my problem! I m glad i bought another switchblade for my baja! Now on to the problem,i will ditch the switch all together and i ll plug the battery straight through. I will get a 2s lipo,run the servos directly of the battery and run the receiver through a bec. i cant find a life battery big enough in Greece unfortunately. @nitroholic i know,the cells i bought aren t rechargable and they are rated for 1.5v each. I dont know if the receiver could handle 7.5v to add another cell to test it Edit: just found and ordered a life 3600mah battery,so no separate cables and no bec, yay

I am getting really sick of this thing....I didnt have another nimh to test, neither did my buddies. I read somewhere on here that the switch blade doesnt get along with lipos, so... I 3d printed 2 type c battery holders, wired them in series, bought some brand new toshibas and off i went! Guess what.... At 4 minutes the kill switch kicked in! This cant be happening! I dont know what else to do!! My patience has run dry.... Now that my baja is on it's way i ll probably bin it and let it rust in some corner Edit: now that i think about it, i used 4xtype-c batts meaning 4x1.5v=6v.... I should have used 5 to get 7.5v?

Actually these are the instructions that came with the unit (not my photo). They are not very helpful. I dont see a code for low voltage and the double pulse i get,says it's pre arm???

Good candidate nevertheless but, unfortunately not guilty....It did it again with the new wiring.... This time did something a little different....My steering servo was jittering and some times even flicking on each own, As i moved the transmitter closer to the receiver the jittering was stopping and starting again as i moved it away....You will say signal problem, but this time i got the code from the kill switch led. A double pulse. If i remember right, that's battery voltage dropping below level, correct?

Guys thanx for the replies! I ve been fighting this problem on and off for about 2 months.I bought the truck new when it came out from rcmodelz, a year plus something ago.I hasn't been run much, 10-12 tanks at most... I have tried a lot of different things to solve this thing.Unfortunately i cant remember the light sequence, i will get a video of it tomorrow that i ll take it out again. As for the servos,i have tried with the engine off the same hitec servo on both steering and throttle.Each time the kill switch kicked in, at random moments. I changed the spark plug in case the resistor has gone bad and the interference bugged the kill switch... No bueno either From the moment i got the truck in my hands i didnt like that stupid plug between the bat and the receiver. Yesterday i changed back the servos and turned it on to set them and take it out to record the light sequence. To my surprise it wasnt getting any power! I moved the said connector and the electronics lit up! So i stripped all the wiring, i soldered new heavy duty wires and 4mm bullets. I will take it out tomorrow,if it does it again then as you said it's the battery....There isnt anything else to be!

So,i got a switchblade killswitch on my 30DNT, it run fine in the beginning but after that it started killing the engine right when it started! I checked the wiring on the killswitch and it's fine I swapped out another tx/rx and did the same thing I installed a capacitor (10v 4700μF) and now drives for 4-5 minutes and kills the engine again. If i restart it,it drives for 1 minute and gets killed again. I changed spark plug, same thing. I swapped the dm4000 on the throttle with an old hitec 805 i had ten years ago.It run for some time then started jittering and doing some weird things and at the end it got killed again.I dont know if the servo is bad as it s been sitting for 10 years or something else. I dont know if it's a bad killswitch,a servo or the battery and i surely cant start throwing money at parts that may or may not need replacing...Please help guys, as i am ready to bin the whole thing!

Maybe i could help you out too,printing i mean,pm me

I did a couple of days back mentioning that i was gonna buy a blade in the next 2 weeks and asking if they can ship it with a different exhaust.They didnt mention anything about it being out of stock or at low quantity

I was gonna get it from rcmodelz but it's out of stock now,so i guess i m getting nothing after all

Hey guys,i m about to get my second gasser.I already have a 30dnt and i had some bajas 10 years ago,but there wasnt such an aftermarket selection back then.My budget is 600 pounds but i can add a little more if it's worth it...I m thinking of getting a km blade...Any other suggestions?

3D pritning is amazing and has endless possibilities...This 1/10 m35 is all 3D printed except for the chassis which is handmade aluminum