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Difference between a drifter and normal on road


(-:AD:-)

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Hi all,

Thinking about maybe purchasing a cheap 1/10 scale car for some on road fun over the winter. 

Wouldn't mind trying a bit of drifting, could I purchase a car to do both racing (not competitive) and drifting?

I guess I would have to change the diff over, and maybe make it 4wd? 

 

Got a couple of 3s packs so only need the car!

Cheers

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3 minutes ago, (-:AD:-) said:

Hi all,

Thinking about maybe purchasing a cheap 1/10 scale car for some on road fun over the winter. 

Wouldn't mind trying a bit of drifting, could I purchase a car to do both racing (not competitive) and drifting?

I guess I would have to change the diff over, and maybe make it 4wd? 

 

Got a couple of 3s packs so only need the car!

Cheers

 

Fair bit of difference to be fair. Weight distribution, main one being steer lock. Although you it is possible to make a TC a half decent drifter just for a bit of fun.

 

I've been converting a Turnigy TD10 into a basic 4WD drifter. Done the C-Hub delete to get a fair bit more steering lock. Locked up the rear different with 100K oil and put some 45wt shock oil in the front diff. Done some camber/toe adjustments and added some negative caster to the front. Just need to get some electrics for it now.

 

 

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Personally I'd say the most important thing is locked diffs.

Closely followed by steering angle.

Then CS, if you wish to run it, which I did.

Provided you have plastic tyres, I'm pretty sure any rwd/4wd TC would drift.

I liked my Sakua D3 CS, that drifted nicely with stock CS and just ran well, I only ended up selling it due to lack of places with smooth tarmac to run it.

Same situation where I live now, or I'd have another.

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Absolutely. Back in the early days of RC drift, before dedicated drift chassis existed, all RC drift was done with touring chassis. Hard plastic tyres, fully locked diffs and detailed shells were all that distinguished drifters from racers.

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