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Tamiya WT-01 Build


BlackHole

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1 minute ago, XV Pilot said:

You can leave the arms as they are if you make it 4WD, but if you make it 4WS then you'll need to make the rear arms the same as the front ones. The shorter arms are that way to accommodate the steering hubs.

oh oki, saved me some money :P   

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Placing one of the internal diff gears between the other two to lock them is a common trick amongst the crawler/scaler community. It works well and is fully reversible, but is only really ideal on slow vehicles as it unbalances the diff, making it vibrate at higher speeds. You wouldn't want to do this on a drifter for example.

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These are the ones I use on mine:

http://www.fusionhobbies.com/product/2330007-absima-95mm-1-10-aluminium-dampers-x2

 

Coupled with these of course:

http://www.fusionhobbies.com/product/wd028-gpm-tl-01b-wild-dagger-alloy-front-rear-damper-mount

 

The aftermarket dampers mount to the car using normal M3 screws, not the step screws supplied in the kit for mounting the stock dampers, hence the metal balls with 3mm holes in them at either end. 

 

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Just finished the build but skiped some steps as I don't have a servo. The articulatin is not good. Springs are stiff and travel distance is small.  I will buy them and change. Any suggestions for good servo? 

 

IMG_0039.jpg

 

 

IMG_0041.jpg

Edited by BlackHole
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Been using the Flysky gt3b for some time now, not the quickest in response time, however, once lipo converted, it has been faultless and I like it for the money.

 

Only downside (to me) is that hobbyking UK no longer sell compatible receivers (having ordered 4 I thought would work) so had to order from the European warehouse instead..

 

One question: do you need four channels?

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Can't comment much on radios I'm afraid as I have no personal experience of any of the sets you are considering. All I can say is that the other Absima sets I have tried work well and feel solidly made, so hopefully the same can be said of the one you linked to.

 

As for the shocks though, I wouldn't recommend going longer than 100mm, as anything taller raises the car's centre of gravity to the point that it becomes unstable and rolls a lot. 95mm to 100mm seems to be the sweet spot for shock length with the extended towers, giving the best compromise between articulation and stability.

Edited by XV Pilot
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12 hours ago, Noj said:

Been using the Flysky gt3b for some time now, not the quickest in response time, however, once lipo converted, it has been faultless and I like it for the money.

 

Only downside (to me) is that hobbyking UK no longer sell compatible receivers (having ordered 4 I thought would work) so had to order from the European warehouse instead..

 

One question: do you need four channels?

you can still get the hk gt2r from the uk  thy work with the turnigy gtx3 so should work with the flysky gt3b/c  http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__29040__HobbyKing_GT_2_2_4Ghz_Receiver_3Ch_UK_Warehouse_.html

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9 hours ago, jea said:

you can still get the hk gt2r from the uk  thy work with the turnigy gtx3 so should work with the flysky gt3b/c  http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__29040__HobbyKing_GT_2_2_4Ghz_Receiver_3Ch_UK_Warehouse_.html

Isn't every remote comes with a recever? At least in what I've seen :o

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1 hour ago, BlackHole said:

Isn't every remote comes with a recever? At least in what I've seen :o

Yes thy do some come with 2 .

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Fine with a NiMh battery and yes while you can run a 2s LiPo the ESC doesn't have a LiPo cut-off so you'll need to buy a cut-off alarm otherwise you'll kill the LiPo battery. Fortunately LiPo alarms are only a couple of quid on eBay.

 

         John

Edited by johninderby
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