bombercountynick Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 (edited) Evening all. Firstly, I am relatively inexperienced with nitro engines! I bought a brand new FTX hooligan rally cross car last week and I am having some issues with the carb settings. During the run in process the engine decided to rev its nuts off on its own accord - I thought there may be an airleak so I re sealed all what I could and did adjust the HSN a little. It has never been run lean on the HSN. I got it running well, took it out the next day and was all good. However the day after it just would not run right. Stupidly I had a play with the low speed needle and it has not run excellent since. However in the manual I do not understand the terms stated to return the LSN to factory settings. So could someone please help? The manual states; With low adjustment screw setting in place, close off the throttle body against the screw. ( that was the first part I didn't grasp!) It carries on to say, very gently screw in the needle valve until it closes off the supply fuel nozzle and is prevented from opening by the entry of the needle valve into the centre hole of the fuel nozzle ( the bit that lost me totally! It also states to be careful, I am looking for minimal frictional contact between both parts. The factory setting is to then RE OPEN the valve 2 1/2 turns. That bit I do understand! Can anyone please simplify this for me ?! I know my current setting is way off so no wonder it does not run quite right. I just want to return my LSN to factory and go from there. As I know my HSN is just 1/8th turn leaner from factory and idle screw is set fine. The car runs and produces nice smoke on power so I know the HSN is adjusted fine. It however does seem to lose a bit of power after 2/3 minutes, lose throttle response and cuts out on idle once its Been ran. It will idle ok to start with. The idle adjustment is spot on so there is No issue there. I have just re read the manual and it did get me thinking about tempeature regarding cutting holes in the shell. Thus far I have only cut a square out of the roof big enough to get my fingers in for the glow start/pull start. Maybe 5x5cm. It could be getting a tad too hot? Would it be advisable to maybe cut out the side windows or some of the front/rear window ? It does seem to run better with the shell off! Any help will be greatly appreciated. I'm having lots of fun for the few minutes it runs well I'd like to just take it out and on!y have to stick fuel in it! Nick. Forgot to mention. Its being run on 25% nitro with a no.4 plug Edited September 25, 2016 by bombercountynick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HellaFlush Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 55 minutes ago, bombercountynick said: Evening all. Firstly, I am relatively inexperienced with nitro engines! I bought a brand new FTX hooligan rally cross car last week and I am having some issues with the carb settings. During the run in process the engine decided to rev its nuts off on its own accord - I thought there may be an airleak so I re sealed all what I could and did adjust the HSN a little. It has never been run lean on the HSN. I got it running well, took it out the next day and was all good. However the day after it just would not run right. Stupidly I had a play with the low speed needle and it has not run excellent since. However in the manual I do not understand the terms stated to return the LSN to factory settings. So could someone please help? The manual states; With low adjustment screw setting in place, close off the throttle body against the screw. ( that was the first part I didn't grasp!) It carries on to say, very gently screw in the needle valve until it closes off the supply fuel nozzle and is prevented from opening by the entry of the needle valve into the centre hole of the fuel nozzle ( the bit that lost me totally! It also states to be careful, I am looking for minimal frictional contact between both parts. The factory setting is to then RE OPEN the valve 2 1/2 turns. That bit I do understand! Can anyone please simplify this for me ?! I know my current setting is way off so no wonder it does not run quite right. I just want to return my LSN to factory and go from there. As I know my HSN is just 1/8th turn leaner from factory and idle screw is set fine. The car runs and produces nice smoke on power so I know the HSN is adjusted fine. It however does seem to lose a bit of power after 2/3 minutes, lose throttle response and cuts out on idle once its Been ran. It will idle ok to start with. The idle adjustment is spot on so there is No issue there. I have just re read the manual and it did get me thinking about tempeature regarding cutting holes in the shell. Thus far I have only cut a square out of the roof big enough to get my fingers in for the glow start/pull start. Maybe 5x5cm. It could be getting a tad too hot? Would it be advisable to maybe cut out the side windows or some of the front/rear window ? It does seem to run better with the shell off! Any help will be greatly appreciated. I'm having lots of fun for the few minutes it runs well I'd like to just take it out and on!y have to stick fuel in it! Nick. Forgot to mention. Its being run on 25% nitro with a no.4 plug Basically wind in your LSN all the way until it stops, don't tighten it. Just until it stops. Then wind it back the amount of turns the manual says. You might find that the LSN is too lean which will make the whole engine run a bit lean until the HSN starts to take over. Meaning that the engine will run hotter. Try re setting the needles and even just drill a few holes in the rear window rather than taking it out to try and save some of the structural integrity 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spannermonkey Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 I have one of these GO engines and had nothing but trouble with it. The only way I found to set LSN is as follows, pull off fuel line to the carb and put a nice clean bit onto carb nipple, hold the throttle arm into the carb body fully against the idle stop. Gently blow into the fuel tube, you will hear the air rushing out the air filter. Slowly wind in the LSN until you can no longer blow down the tube. Wind out the needle the stated 2 1/2 turns and re pipe your fuel supply. With this engine I found no other way, if you do it the usual way of wind it in to touch and then out 2 1/2 turns it won't run. I stumbled across this method when trying to figure out why it wouldn't run. I hope you have more luck than I have with it, ended up junking it in favour of a SH. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bombercountynick Posted September 25, 2016 Author Share Posted September 25, 2016 (edited) Thanks mate, I know its a cheap car so I'm not expecting miracles but just to run would be nice! I've wound it in until i felt it stop, back out 2.5 turns and it didn't want to start. I did wind it out again 1/2 turn which got it going, it stalled and now the pull string has broken, typical!! The engine wasn't flooded, probably down to the million times I've had to try get it going! I will try your method when I get a new pull start but like you I'm tempted to ditch the engine altogether. The picco I have in my x1 buggy hasn't ran for 3 years and it fired up the other day and ticked over like a beauty all the way through a tank! Edited September 25, 2016 by bombercountynick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bombercountynick Posted September 25, 2016 Author Share Posted September 25, 2016 (edited) P.s did you remove the airfilter in order to hear the air rush out or leave it on? Also what source did you find that info on? Ive had no joy on google! Sorry for the dumb questions! Edited September 25, 2016 by bombercountynick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burridge Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 I have the same car and the engine has run OK. Only problem I've been having is it eating plugs after a few minutes, which I was told was down to the lsn, I'll be taking the same advice from these guys with it. In terms of holes in the body, cut a square out of the windscreen on the side that the engine is, that way air will rush through the hole and the engine will get some cooling. The fact that it comes fully painted with decals but no holes for cooling is pretty stupid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spannermonkey Posted September 26, 2016 Share Posted September 26, 2016 You can leave the filter on or take it off, it's louder with the filter off. You will notice it get really hard to blow too, hearing the air is more for checking the fuel passage is clear. I didn't find the info anywhere, I came to the same dead ends as you have. I'm a truck mechanic by trade so I just applied a bit of logic. The instruction says basically shut off the fuel then turn out 2 1\2 turns. That was the only way I could see to tell when the fuel was cut off due to the strange LSN set up. There are no stupid questions in this hobby. If your not sure just ask 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puddle Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 i got the same little issue and the same little engine do we know whats the best position for the needle 2.5 turns ? it sounds like it wants to go and i smell a little burnt fuel i cant tell if its too much fuel or on enough man i knew this would be tricky but come on lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spannermonkey Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 2.5 turns is the best base line I've found then 1/16 or 1/8 turns either way until it runs. They are super annoying little engines. Rewarding when you get it right though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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