rob bark Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 18 minutes ago, chewbacca said: ROSSA. Not sure exactly what it stands for but it's basically all about speed. Think Bonneville Speed Week but in Britain with RC vehicles. nice blushless it is then with a lipo attached see if can get fastest wheelie speed!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 1 hour ago, rob bark said: would it be possible to put rx in water tight box?? I'm guessing waterproof motors are expensive!!! An how much more of a power increase could the lunchbox gears take!!!! There are waterproof boxes for radio gear. If you're sticking with a brushed motor then all they need (waits for corrections) is a spray of WD40 after a soaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob bark Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 4 minutes ago, chewbacca said: There are waterproof boxes for radio gear. If you're sticking with a brushed motor then all they need (waits for corrections) is a spray of WD40 after a soaking. nice that simple then!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 Just now, rob bark said: nice that simple then!! Yeah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PraetoR Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 In my experience, you NEVER spray WD40 inside a brushed motor. It ruins it. The WD leaves a residue that, yes... gets rid of moisture and dirt, but also goes a long way to blocking the electrical contact between brushes and commutator. This results in the motor needing a re-skim, re-brush and rebuild, as you'll find it just won't rev. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Anyone know what the going rate is for a BNIB Stadium Raider? Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 A tricky one that - usually I would go and have a look on EBay and see what they have sold for recently. However it was not the most popular model in its day, so not many come up for sale. Hence it is hard to guesstimate a current market value. I suppose you could see what other TL-01 NIB models go for, and base an estimate on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Been offered one for £85 and not sure if that's a fair price or not Sent from my iPad Air using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Just looked on the bay and no Raiders came up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 The Stadium Raider is the predecessor to the TT-02T Sand Shaker, so for that money I would be more inclined to go for a Sand Shaker instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Cool cool, cheers XV, Sent from my iPad Air using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 So this arrived.... Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted April 29, 2016 Author Share Posted April 29, 2016 Mr Pilot, need a recommendation for a set of wheels please, I don't wanna trash these wheels and tyres or body shell. It was gonna be a runner body but the wife has ok'd it that I can keep the wheels and body for shelf use with it being a 'limited edition' so now I need some runner wheels and a runner body Sent from my iPad Air using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 (edited) The stock Star Dish wheels are a little smaller than standard 2.2 buggy wheels, limiting one's tyre options somewhat, so for running many people go for either the 2.2 wheels from the DF-03 if they want to stick with Tamiya, or the wheel set from something like the FTX Vantage if they aren't too fussed about brand. I use FTX Vantage wheels and either FTX Vantage stock tyres or Fastrax Turf Rippers on several of my runner buggies. They reportedly aren't as strong as genuine Tamiya ones, but I haven't broken one yet, and they are cheap and easy to replace if they do ever break. Edited April 29, 2016 by XV Pilot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted April 29, 2016 Author Share Posted April 29, 2016 Im not too fussed about keeping tamiya for actual use. Ill check out the ftx vantage, just looking for cheap but good. Lol Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveyb84 Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 anybody use gpm parts on their tamiyas? looking at asiatees and they have some stuff at a decent price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted April 29, 2016 Author Share Posted April 29, 2016 Im using a GPM motor mount and alloy prop on my TB-01. Would reccomend them Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted April 29, 2016 Share Posted April 29, 2016 2 hours ago, Daveyb84 said: anybody use gpm parts on their tamiyas? looking at asiatees and they have some stuff at a decent price. Yes, I use their steering racks and motor mounts on several of my models, as well as a few other bits. I have found the quality to be good on the whole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 I hate stickers. Decided. Why cant they precut the stickers on the sheets?!?! Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 Because that makes life just too easy, Dave Mr XVP, in a bit of a quandary and hope you can assist. Bought an M1025 Hummer, from this very forum, 'some' time ago....got it, gave it a quick dust decided to just shelf it for 'some' reason. It was packed away before moving (2014) and unearthed last weekend, all cushioned in bubble wrap. Decided for a weekend project, I'd get it running. However.....upon stripping it (and discovering a dunes worth of sand covering everything, hence why I think it just got shelved initially.....) it has been fitted with 2 ball diffs, not one....so, I have a few questions: Never had a ball diff before, so, do I need specific grease? All moving parts of the drivetrain are in excellent condition BTW, which was a relief when I opened the diff cases!! Is there any benefit from running two ball diffs, over a stock front and rear ball (as it came from the factory)? What is the best way of setting these up? How does this, DF01 chassis differ (if at all) from the TA01/02 chassis? Any idea as to what foams would fit the stock boots? Is this model one to hold onto or are they another, relatively valueless, vintage Tamiya? Although I have bearings, it'll now not be this weekend's finished project, although all the parts will be super clean and sand free. Oh, for note, the intended powerplant is a 3800kv four pole on 2s.....unless someone can give a very strong argument as to why not (accepting they are a nose heavy rig when airborne and most YouTube footage does show them going slowly) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TMaxxDave Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 I'm sure Mr XVP will be here soon Noj. As for grease, I'd bang in the Tamiya stuff or something similar Sent from my iPad Air using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 Ey up Lord D. 'Something similar'....transmission grease?? My thought is that could be too heavy, not having experienced ball grease. Speaking to the Wookie, a BL set up may not be wise, on a ('95 vintage) ball diff set up. Now, if a gear diff (as in the front) would fit the rear, then game on. If not, then it will get rebuilt regardless and then......well.....as of this moment, I'm undecided. There are brushed options of course, a Quicrun 1060 and a 15t firebolt may just be the pep required....just fancy some silliness to see what it can be made to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 Ball diffs are quite picky when it comes to grease. Basically you need one that is greasy enough to prevent wear but not so greasy as to let the ball diff plates slip against the balls. I would recommend sticking to Tamiya's ball diff grease, or the VG TRF ball diff grease if you are feeling flush. Setting ball diffs is a bit of a black art. Hardcore racers can write essays on the subject. However for general driving, I find it sufficient to tighten them until you can hold the diff and one outdrive in one hand, and try to turn the other outdrive by hand without it slipping, but not so tight that if you try to turn the outdrives in opposite directions without holding the diff, they turn with only minimal notchiness. The only advantage to two ball diffs that I can see is extra adjustability, but ball diffs are a bit of a pain IMNSHO, and personally I would prefer gear diffs tuned with grease in a general runner. The DF-01 narrow track version found under the Hummer shell is very very similar to a TA-01. I would need to consult my manuals to tell you exactly how they differ, but it isn't by much. And as it is still in production (found under models such as the Porsche Cayenne), it doesn't have the rarity value of a discontinued vintage model. Not that this is a bad thing - it means parts are still easy to come by. The stock boots are really hard, often nicknamed hockey pucks, so you don't need to run foams in them. I never have. Once you replace the soft metal idler gear with a (surprisingly) harder-wearing plastic one from a TA-02, and do the screw mods to the rear gearbox cover, you shouldn't have any issues with your chosen motor. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 No metal idler gear installed, so the previous owner addressed this. Bonus for me! Thanks for the info XV. Have to order the specific grease now so this definitely won't be done this weekend. Dropped on a HD propshaft which is on the way, ally motor mount and ally steering rack to order too. Hummer silliness to come, hurrah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV Pilot Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 I enjoy this forum but I do hate the software on which it runs - sometimes it lets me edit my posts, sometimes it inexplicably refuses. Anyway, the paragraph of my last post that deals with ball diff setting should read as follows: "Setting ball diffs is a bit of a black art. Hardcore racers can write essays on the subject. However for general driving, I find it sufficient to tighten them until you can hold the diff and one outdrive in one hand, and try to turn the other outdrive by hand without it slipping, but not so tight that if you try to turn the outdrives in opposite directions without holding the diff, you can't turn them or they turn with too much resistance. They should have some resistance but only minimal notchiness." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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