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So im using my scx-10 Defender build now and looking for some advise please....


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So i have a scx-10 Defender 90 and i have used it today for the second time but unfortunately the rear prop shaft came loose at the axle end and i lost the male section of the shaft.

Im looking to make few changes, it crawls OK but id say its still top heavy or light on the front end so im thinking about replacing the standard foam inserts with the star cut inserts from rcbitz to help with traction.

my current spec is as follow's;

Axial scx-10 with custom D90 links and D90 body

Savox SW0230 mg waterproof servo

AX30426 Steering Upgrade Kit

AX30495 Aluminum C Hub Carrier
AX30464 Scorpion Universal joint Set
AX30494 Aluminum Rear Axle Lockout
AX30395 Heavy Duty Bevel Gear Set - 38T/13T front and rear
AX30708 Locked Transmission complete metal gear set (3pcs)
Beef tubes fitted in both front and rear axle's
losi comp crawler shocks
87T plastic spur gear
20T pinion gear

RC4wd Punisher shafts front and rear (just fitted
Axial waterproof speed controller
Drift sport D1s 35T motor 
Aluminium beadlock wheels weighted 200g per wheel 
dirt grabber tyres with standard foam inserts

 

Any advise would be great thanks.

 

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Edited by gti power
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I've got the same, a scx10 D90. Everything is stock kit plastic at the minute, custom links. 
Only thing is I've got high mass beadlock wheels, don't know how much they weigh but I don't get much problems with it tipping over, even with the big heavy roof rack on top! 

Where is your battery mounted? Mine is across the front behind the axles:

 

IMAG0877.jpg

 

P2210583.jpg

 

Steven

Edited by Steven.T
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9 hours ago, ostewart said:

Beef tubes in the axles might help

That's interesting didn't even know what they were which may I add isn't unusual as I'm fairly new to all this and every outing is a learning curve. 

 

So I watched a Utube video just and saw what you meant by Beef tubes and how to fit them,  they look like a roll pin.

 

I have seen metal axle upgrades or is that more for show?  I appreciate that is an expensive modification compared to the Beef tube.

 

Where is best to purchase the tubes?  Thanks. 

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@banners makes beef tubes for a good price. They are better than wheel weights as it isn't rotating mass which puts strain on the drive train and motor.

 

I run them front and rear in my Bomber.

 

Full aluminium axles are a good upgrade but very pricey, also plastic with beef will be heavier, you can't put them in aluminium axles.

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I always think of aluminium as a softer lighter material therfore not really going to achieve much for the money in terms of upgrades. 

Would you run beef tubes along with weighted wheels or install the tubes and remove the weights? I'd have thought both together would be a great combination? 

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Whats people's opinions on relocation of the battery?

I currently have mine at the rear in-between the wheels across the axle, I've seen I relocated up front and across the chassis in front of the rear axle which Im considering doing? 

Also my current wheel and tyre set up is 200g total weight with standard foams,  should I reduce the rear weight to say 100g and fit star cut foam in the front tyres? 

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Personally I prefer the battery up front behind the front axle, I think it makes a lot of difference. Some people say they don't notice a difference and even move it back, so it's more a trial and error, there's no right or wrong way. 

In my Jeep it always used to tip over backwards with the battery in the back if I went up a steep hill. Doesn't do it with the battery up front. 

 

Just looking at your photos, I'd be tempted to wind the preload on the shocks back up, it might just soften the suspension up enough to make it a bit less tippy, worth a try?

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Funny you mentioned that as I have the shockers like that as with the body, battery etc on they were quite soft, I think they are weeping slightly so I have gutted the rig today to rebuild after assessing it I've found it had a few more upgrades I wasn't aware of.

I plan on rebuilding the shockers they are pro line ones and I believe I can use the Tamiya orange seals?

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couple of questions , what grease should i use in the gearbox and the axles?

 

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Is this ok? i know the pinions isnt qute covering the spur teeth but it appers to be meshing ok?

 

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I also found some minor damage to the ring gear of both front and rear bevel gears, the pinion gears apper fine.

Would you be concerend about this? im also looking to re- grease these and possible use some rtv silicone to seal the axle as best as possible t help prevennt water and dust ingress, what's peoples thought's on this?

 

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One thing thats always bugged me since fitting the D90 link's is the front axle has always pointed down like so

 

{option}http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o43/gtipower/RC%20D90/IMG_0095_zpsoae9okuy.jpg[/IMG]

 

I have today discovered why (not fitted by myself)

 

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{option}http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o43/gtipower/RC%20D90/IMG_0105_zpsgxkowi2l.jpg[/IMG]

 

It would seem that the Aluminum C Hub Carrier has been fitted incorectly so ill have to amend that when re-assembeling.

 

 

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I just use some random grease I have lying around in the diffs and the gearbox, out of my Dads garage, haven't got a clue what it is!

 

With regards to your spur and pinion, I was told ages ago to get a thin strip of A4 paper and run it between the pinion and spur, you should be able to get it through without being too tight. If it rips it its too tight! 

 

I wouldn't bother sealing the axles, maybe just use waterproof grease? If your worried about the damage on the ring gear then replace them. I've never had any bother with my SCX ones but I rounded a pair off in my wraith, but that was brushless. If they seem to mesh ok and don't slip they should be ok.

 

Steven

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Looks to me like it's brushed. The brushless I had in the wraith was just too powerful for the stock gears. 

Beef tubes are a good idea, I don't have any in my Defender but do in my other scx.

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Brushed motors are generally waterproof. I think I've only seen one that might not have been but that had a little circuit board on it for some reason. 

The brushes sometimes do wear down faster in water, depends how soft the brushes are. I've just had some new brushes put in a band new tekin motor after one run in water, there was nothing left of the brushes they were that soft!

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Don't change it to brushless. There isn't many fully waterproof brushless systems out there. I have one in my Wraith but that's a faster truck, it wouldn't really be suitable for a defender. The brushed motor is the better option for less chew.

If you did go brushless you need a new motor and ESC obviously. Sensored is best for crawlers as you get better low speed. I had to coat the sensor cable on my Wraith as it was glitching when it got wet. For what it's worth, stick with the brushed motor if your gonna get it wet. A set of brushes every now and then isn't going to be a major issue!

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Beef tubes arrived yesterday so will be looking to fit those now after making a purchase on a Dremel,  thanks for the advice there.

Have a new pair of shafts on order along with some high strength red threadlock. 

Need to re assemble front/rear axles re grease and refit.

Tamiya orange o rings on order to rebuild shock absorbers then should be good to go :-) 

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Some advice needed please,  after bursting one of my proline scaler shocks I purchased a set of losing comp crawler shocks off a guy on here, I've just fitted them and they have increased the ride height quite a bit, I'm not too fussed as it maybe more usable however the appearance isn't great.

Im considering putting some 1.9's back on instead of my 1.55's what do you think?  Is there a lowering spring available or can you cut down the springs?

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