Steven.T

I used simlar buckets in your link for mine but the ones I used arent available anymore, those in you link look close enough

Are you after ones for the headlights? If so, I used spares from a maglite torch they fit perfect: http://www.brewstersbatteries.co.uk/catalog/maglite-aa-replacement-reflector-p-157.html

1.9 wheels with Rock creeper tyres. The wheels weigh a ton so keeps it nice and stable! Have you seen this for the puma bonnet? http://www.djdesigns.eu/Later_Model_Bonnet_Bulge/p2292763_11711253.aspx

I've used SDI arches on mine, it looks loads better than having sticky out wheels (scx10 chassis) I tried to make mine look like this, not too bling with a bit off-road: And my version... (the paint is supposed to be the same colour though mine went dark when I laquered it;

I've asked Axial and apparently the new axles bolt straight on in place of the old scx ones, need new cvds though. I fancy a set for my D90....

If you use a separate battery for the light bar you will need to link the negatives of the light bar battery and the main battery, took me ages to figure out why my switch wouldn't work on mine!

The beef tubes are straightforward to fit. I've just put some new SSD knuckles hubs and shafts on my defender, the steering angle is loads better now!

Don't change it to brushless. There isn't many fully waterproof brushless systems out there. I have one in my Wraith but that's a faster truck, it wouldn't really be suitable for a defender. The brushed motor is the better option for less chew. If you did go brushless you need a new motor and ESC obviously. Sensored is best for crawlers as you get better low speed. I had to coat the sensor cable on my Wraith as it was glitching when it got wet. For what it's worth, stick with the brushed motor if your gonna get it wet. A set of brushes every now and then isn't going to be a major issue!

Brushed motors are generally waterproof. I think I've only seen one that might not have been but that had a little circuit board on it for some reason. The brushes sometimes do wear down faster in water, depends how soft the brushes are. I've just had some new brushes put in a band new tekin motor after one run in water, there was nothing left of the brushes they were that soft!

Looks to me like it's brushed. The brushless I had in the wraith was just too powerful for the stock gears. Beef tubes are a good idea, I don't have any in my Defender but do in my other scx.

I just use some random grease I have lying around in the diffs and the gearbox, out of my Dads garage, haven't got a clue what it is! With regards to your spur and pinion, I was told ages ago to get a thin strip of A4 paper and run it between the pinion and spur, you should be able to get it through without being too tight. If it rips it its too tight! I wouldn't bother sealing the axles, maybe just use waterproof grease? If your worried about the damage on the ring gear then replace them. I've never had any bother with my SCX ones but I rounded a pair off in my wraith, but that was brushless. If they seem to mesh ok and don't slip they should be ok. Steven

Personally I prefer the battery up front behind the front axle, I think it makes a lot of difference. Some people say they don't notice a difference and even move it back, so it's more a trial and error, there's no right or wrong way. In my Jeep it always used to tip over backwards with the battery in the back if I went up a steep hill. Doesn't do it with the battery up front. Just looking at your photos, I'd be tempted to wind the preload on the shocks back up, it might just soften the suspension up enough to make it a bit less tippy, worth a try?

I've got the same, a scx10 D90. Everything is stock kit plastic at the minute, custom links. Only thing is I've got high mass beadlock wheels, don't know how much they weigh but I don't get much problems with it tipping over, even with the big heavy roof rack on top! Where is your battery mounted? Mine is across the front behind the axles: Steven

Another vote for the Quicrun 1060, I've had 4 of them, all still working fine! Nice and cheap to replace aswell if anything does go wrong.

I've moved the battery up front in my SCX aswell, never had it in the back to begin with, however it's now mounted sideways instead of the normal axial way, rolled far too much with it in the stock position!

I'm inclined to disagree with keeping the battery in the back. Had mine in the back of the Wraith originally (I know it's not an SCX but the theory is the same),moved it up front and it was like driving a different car when crawling up steep hills

Bit of Wraith action

Waterproof everything you can in my opinion! Even if you don't intend on running in water, it's worth it for the peace of mind just incase! The ESC is waterproof anyway so that's a good start. A few people put the BEC and reciever etc in a balloon and seal the end up. I just dipped mine in liquid tape, done the trick so far!

I use the Hobbywing 5A one with a 17kg savox servo in my SCX10, never had any bother. Still better than using the ESC bec, gives the esc one less thing to contend with. I use a castle 10A in my wraith for the 20kg servo but that's big tall tyres aswell.

You won't go far wrong with the 1060 ESC, brilliant little thing for the price and the drag brake is spot on. Also echoing the comments about a BEC, definitely better off with one, I just use a cheap Hobbywing one in my scx10: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hobbywing-3A-UBEC-5V-6V-Switch-Mode-BEC-/221655594331?hash=item339bb3f55b:g:tucAAOSwEetV-zfe

An SCX10 I bought recently had a clicking noise from the gearbox area, turns out a motor bearing was shot and caused the shaft to spin out of true! Could be worth checking although shouldn't be a problem on a new model.

Any idea roughly where the click is coming from? I.e. front axle, rear axle, middle (gearbox/motor etc)?

It is stock pinion yeah, ordered a tamiya one cos the rw one wasn't in stock, will bear them in mind if I still have bother though thanks!

I've done the paper test when fitting them and the paper doesn't rip. It seems the pinion wears itself somehow and then cuts the spur down when it goes into reverse. Ordered a tamiya pinion to see if that helps. Cheers Steven Edit: slipper was right up right originally but I backed it off loads so that shouldn't be a problem hopefully!

I've had my Vantage for almost a year and apart from the rear wing itself the first thing I broke was the wing mount tonight. Was a bit of a dodgy landing like! Been stripping gears recently aswell, 3s is far too much fun though!