Sven

My first (and only) crawler is also a Maverick and I'm just starting to look at it again after 2 years neglect. Here is a photo from the last outing but since then new and larger wheels have been installed and a roof rack with some lights. Also moved all the insides around and fitted new chassi rails. The battery is now 4700mAh and fastened straight on top of the front axle. However, all that experimenting with lights caused a few incidents and I burnt various pieces of electronics and is still in the process of fixing it, oops ? Just installed a new ESC but can't seem to connect to the receiver so in the process of looking for a new Transmitter-Receiver set... Not the fault of the Maverick mind you which has been very good ?

I have now seemingly managed to toast the Maverick ESC after only a few drives. Was playing around with a Y-lead for feeding the LED's before realising that I had fed full battery power into the control output from the ESC, and now it won't control anything Well, I always learn most from mistakes Time to order the Quicrun 1060 and see how it goes.

Ok, so I got the BEC but the input leads are simply two wires without any connectors. I figure what I need is to hook them into the incoming power going to the ESC but what is the best way? Shall I replace the Tamiya connector with a new one and crimp both the ESC and the BEC wires into the same connector? I cannot seem to find a suitable Y-Lead at Modelsport.co.uk either...

I do like the look of some of Proline's tyres: - Iron XL 2.2 G8 - Interco TSL SX Super Swamper XL 2.2 Does anyone have experience with these and if they are at all suitable for Rock Crawling and for a Scout? They are a lot taller than the originals It does not matter much if they are not the Very Best rock crawling tyres as I'm not competing or anything, just driving for fun

Maybe the wheels delivered with the Scout has varied over time? When measuring across the slot in the wheel were the tyre fits in, there is a considerable difference in diameter, as shown in the first photo. Indeed, the original wheel has a "tyre slot" with exactly 2.5 inch diameter. The same distance measures exactly 2.2 inch on the new wheels, so there is nothing wrong with new ones as such. Except them not fitting the original tyres The second photo shows how much bigger the original tyre is. The bottom inside of the tyre is already fitted to the slot in the wheel on the photo but there is no way to fit the whole circumference of the tyre in at the same time. You always end up with a significant loop of tyre which always pops out of the slot as it cannot be compressed all around at the same time. It seems like I'll have to get new tyres anyway. What do you recommend? I'm quite keen on the bigger tyres with 140 mm diameter Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well that's awkward... Got my new wheels this week so was going to install them today. However, it turns out that they don't fit the original Maverick Scout tyres. Closer inspection shows that the new wheels are indeed the size they say they should be, but the Scout wheels are Larger Measuring up the Scout wheels it seems like their actual size is 58 mm i.e. 2.5 inch, so the Scout tyres does not fit. See attached photos: So, where do I find 2.5 inch wheels? They don't seem very common? Also, If I get some 2.2 tyres, will they then be smaller than the originals? A quick check seems to give the tyre diameter as 125+ mm, which at least seems quite common.

Ok, I'll keep that in mind if it gets to that. Thanks!

For what it's worth I went ahead and bought a Turnigy UBEC with 5V/6V output and 5.5+ input. Hopefully that fits my needs. It was so cheap it's hardly worth worrying about

OK, I've gone ahead and bought the Chrome HPI 3214 version. They seem to get good reviews and considerably cheaper than most similar wheels

That looks Ace!! How do you manage to keep it so clean Hmm, the description says "Because of the special bead lock construction, these tires must be used with HPI Rock Grabber Tires", what's that about? That seems to apply to many HPI wheels. Can I not keep my current tyres? With a whole new set of Wheels and Tyres seemingly approaching £100 I'm having second thoughts. It seems ridiculous to spend that much on just these items when the whole car is is probably worth less by now So for now I'll probably just get a nice set of rims only, but of course they then have to fit the original tyres.

Oops, I didn't realise it had 2.2's. Thanks for the update! I shall have a look at those tyres. It seems like some rims mention offset values, but most don't. Is this critical? What does the Maverick need? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can I run 2.2 size wheels on the Maverick Scout? While cleaning out the wheels today (there were tons of water in them) I noticed that one of the wheel hex "sockets" had been ripped off the rim. Effectively I've been running 4x3 for who knows how long Since I've been considering upgraded tyres anyway, but balked at the prices a bit, this may be a good excuse change both rims and tyres. I assume the Scout uses 1.9 wheels originally but since they all seems to use the 12 mm hex to fit on the axles, can they be upgraded to bigger wheels i.e. 2.2? Considering the Scouts limited steering angles i'm guessing that won't be a problem. Does any wheel rim with Beadlocks fit? Which tyres do you recommend for rock crawling? Thanks for any input!

I've been looking around the model sport site but am getting confused around BEC's. Do you need a BEC "module" (is that effectively a Voltage regulator?), or just a cable/plug to split the battery power out to the receiver/LED's? Is there a specific plug for BEC's? Is that one of those small ones which goes into the "sockets" on the receiver? Sorry for all the questions but I want to reduce the risk of buying a bunch of incorrect things. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info. I'm still not quite sure how the LED's are actually wired. Considering that they still work better when one is dead, does that mean the dead one has a short so there is more voltage left over for the rest of them i.e. they are connected in series? Nice idea with separate lighting battery, but if I want it to be controlled by CH2 then it has all got to be spliced together somehow... Is a separate battery better than a BEC? I would have assumed that the LED lights draw a Lot less power then the motor? (at least that is the case with my other electric car, a Nissan Leaf )

I put a set of 4 LED's on the Scout, connected via a LED controller, but they are very pale. They cannot be seen in daylight at all but you can see that they light up if it's dark enough. Interestingly the set also included another set of 4 LED's, of which one seems to be broken (i.e. only 3 working) and funnily enough they Do light up brightly. I can measure that the voltage to the LED's is 5 Volt but presumably that gets shared across all 4 (or 3 when one isn't working) so does that mean that this voltage is too low? Would a BEC solve that problem by providing 6 V to both the receiver, steering servo and the LED controller? In which case, can someone recommend a good BEC? Finally, the LED controller is a little box with 6 separate LED plugs but I cannot quite get my head around how it is supposed to work. The description with it seems to indicate that one specific slot should be used to connect the LED's, so why are there so many more slots? Some of them seem to receive at least some power? Is the box generic with different versions using different parts of it? Also, the function switch description on the box seems to only have a very vague correlation between the description and it's actual function. The current slot and switch position I'm using does seem to do what I want it to do, except aforementioned paleness...