total novice, need help, tamiya experts get in here please :D

[Tamiyacowboy]

48 minutes ago, Berzerk said:

 

uhm lol...kinda i think, but wouldnt the glue stick the screw to the brass insert?

 

edit

 

by dry assemble do you mean without connecting it to the servo?

 

Dry assembly : a term used by kit builders to build up a section but leave it devoid of an thread lock or grease, dry fitting is a better term, this allows the builder to test the link system before adding a thread lock to lock a screw inplace. ie your steering link would be dry fitted and tested for binding, if all seemed well you would remove screw dab a tiny touch of thread lock to it then screw it back in and let it set up for a few mins (10 mins is enough ) 

No buddy the threadlocker will NOT bind the screw to the brass inset, the thread lock is a liquid that fills the gap in the screws threads , when its screwed in place that liquid also sits between the screws thread and the threadded part its joining to. the brass unit is a spacer and there will be a slight air gap so the thread lock will not bind it together  

[Berzerk]

18 minutes ago, Tamiyacowboy said:

 

Dry assembly : a term used by kit builders to build up a section but leave it devoid of an thread lock or grease, dry fitting is a better term, this allows the builder to test the link system before adding a thread lock to lock a screw inplace. ie your steering link would be dry fitted and tested for binding, if all seemed well you would remove screw dab a tiny touch of thread lock to it then screw it back in and let it set up for a few mins (10 mins is enough ) 

No buddy the threadlocker will NOT bind the screw to the brass inset, the thread lock is a liquid that fills the gap in the screws threads , when its screwed in place that liquid also sits between the screws thread and the threadded part its joining to. the brass unit is a spacer and there will be a slight air gap so the thread lock will not bind it together  

 

thanks for explaining that cowboy, so i was tightening the screw up too much causing binding, the threadlock would allow the screw to not need to be tightened up so much but be secured in the assembly is that correct?

[XV Pilot]

The "glue" (threadlock) might stick the screw to the brass insert if you putntoo much on, and if it does, that won't matter - they need to remain stationary relative to each other anyway.

 

By dry assembly, I mean without threadlock. You may need to disassemble and reassemble the linkage a few times to get it working smoothly without binding, and this is easier without it being threadlocked together. Once you are happy with how it goes together you can lock it down with threadlock.

Edited May 9, 2016 by XV Pilot

[Berzerk]

Thanks XV Pilot, i'm gonna see if i can get another steering assembly and some loctite and then i'll try what you guys suggested, thanks

[Tamiyacowboy]

9 hours ago, Berzerk said:

 

thanks for explaining that cowboy, so i was tightening the screw up too much causing binding, the threadlock would allow the screw to not need to be tightened up so much but be secured in the assembly is that correct?

 

yes kind of, thread lock fluid when it drys up becomes a solid like substance, but with a quick sharp turn of a allen key or a spanner it breaks the seal and releases. we us this on a lot of mechanical points, even your big road cars / trucks / lorrys and aircraft have threadlock somewhere when its built. it stops things like screws and nuts/bolts shaking loose over time. 
Chinese motorbikes are a pain in the arse and never threadlocked they shake themselves to pieces, a poorly built rc kit can do the same when its a metal to metal contact point, so we use a tiny ( and i mean tiny dab) dab of threadlock to stop this boneshaker syndrome affecting us. 

threadlock is a great tool to have in the rc box, you will use it alot over time and it will help you not loose parts or screws to that bone shaking from rough ground and likes.

[Berzerk]

7 hours ago, Tamiyacowboy said:

 

yes kind of, thread lock fluid when it drys up becomes a solid like substance, but with a quick sharp turn of a allen key or a spanner it breaks the seal and releases. we us this on a lot of mechanical points, even your big road cars / trucks / lorrys and aircraft have threadlock somewhere when its built. it stops things like screws and nuts/bolts shaking loose over time. 
Chinese motorbikes are a pain in the arse and never threadlocked they shake themselves to pieces, a poorly built rc kit can do the same when its a metal to metal contact point, so we use a tiny ( and i mean tiny dab) dab of threadlock to stop this boneshaker syndrome affecting us. 

threadlock is a great tool to have in the rc box, you will use it alot over time and it will help you not loose parts or screws to that bone shaking from rough ground and likes.

 

cheers cowboy!, nice to know i can still remove the screw if i need to if its threadlocked, funny you should mention real road cars i was wondering if its also used on them, i suppose its not vital for nuts that can be tightened down really hard that you can check every so often but for nuts that have to be a bit more loose its a necessity...just wish i had known this before...completely my fault and i'm still really angry that i didnt check with you guys first but i learned a lesson!, i was looking at the TT01 equivalent that i got for the BMW build, looks like that one comes pre assembled and already threadlocked so i dont need to worry about that, cheers mate!

Edited May 9, 2016 by Berzerk

[Berzerk]

guys i'm just about to attempt to assemble the 3Racing damper set that i got for the TT01 build, it looks like it only came with 1 o-ring and a plastic spacer per damper, i remember doing the CVA shocks that came with the FF-01 and they had 2 o-rings per damper, do you think i could get away with only using 1 or will it leak alot?, this is the kit im using 

 

Edited May 9, 2016 by Berzerk

[TMaxxDave]

If it only came with one, then chances are it's designed for one, it should be fine

Sent from my iPad Air using Tapatalk

[chewbacca]

Green Slime. Great for preventing leakage.

[Berzerk]

15 minutes ago, TMaxxDave said:

If it only came with one, then chances are it's designed for one, it should be fine

Sent from my iPad Air using Tapatalk

 

6 minutes ago, chewbacca said:

Green Slime. Great for preventing leakage.

thanks guys, Dave thats what i was thinking, i just wasnt sure as they seem to go together pretty much the same as the tamiya ones, thanks for the tip chewie i just had a look at the green slime, i think that is another "must have" in any rc toolbox i will be getting some of that, cheers!

[Berzerk]

i'd like to sort the steering out on my FF01, i have a really hard time explaining things so this might not make sense but i'll try, i think i got the distances wrong of the steering tie rods/turnbuckles when i first built the FF, now i think i have corrected them, but with the gpm steering assembly fitted to the chassis the servo tie rod didnt fit on the servo arm and the left side steering assembly ball joint with the servo being in the upright position and the wheels being straight on, I've posted picture below, so if i go with the tie rod length set out in the FF manual the servo Ball joint has to be at the angle shown by the red line in the picture with the wheels being straight, does that mean it will have less turning angle to one side?, should the servo ball joint be at the green line angle when the wheels are straight?

 

Also, when checking for binding in the steering assembly, should it be done before connecting it to the servo via the tie rod (yellow arrow in picture)

 

i noticed before i lost the screw and spacer on the steering assembly that if i turned the steering to the right it wouldn't return fully to center, and the same if i turned left. is that caused by binding or is it just unavoidable slop? 

 

 

 

i also got some update pictures of the TT01 build, its coming along 

 

 

Front and rear arms/axles/shocks/bodymounts and front bumper assembled

 

 

just added the steering assembly too!, this is where i'm upto

 

 

 

 

 

[TMaxxDave]

Damn the TT-01 looks good :-)

Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo

[Berzerk]

2 minutes ago, TMaxxDave said:

Damn the TT-01 looks good :-)

Sent from my Galaxy S5 Neo

hehe thanks mate

[Berzerk]

guys i just finished the TT01 chassis and when i press forward on the tx the car reverses and reverse on the tx makes it go forward...what i have done??? 

 

it's using a TBLE-02 esc and motor is a SpeedPassion V3 Competition BL 17.5T sensored

Edited May 11, 2016 by Berzerk

[XV Pilot]

Did you remember to reverse the throttle channel on your TX before calibrating the ESC?

[Berzerk]

15 minutes ago, XV Pilot said:

Did you remember to reverse the throttle channel on your TX before calibrating the ESC?

 

no XV, i didnt know i needed to do that, i have this tx http://www.modelsport.co.uk/tactic-rc-ttx300-3-channel-slt-radio/rc-car-products/388540, is there something i can do to fix it? 

 

edit

 

would this be the switch to reverse the throttle channel?

 

 

Edited May 11, 2016 by Berzerk

[XV Pilot]

I am not familiar with the TX myself, but I would be very surprised indeed if it doesn't have a channel reverse option. You might need to consult the radio manual if it isn't immediately obvious where it is. All you need to do is reverse the throttle channel, recalibrate your ESC according to its instructions, and you'll be good to go.

[XV Pilot]

Just had a look at the manual myself - the throttle reverse switch is on the left side next to the power switch.

[Berzerk]

Just now, XV Pilot said:

Just had a look at the manual myself - the throttle reverse switch is on the left side next to the power switch.

cheers XV Pilot I'll try it now

[Berzerk]

6 minutes ago, XV Pilot said:

Just had a look at the manual myself - the throttle reverse switch is on the left side next to the power switch.

 

uhm...lol there's good and bad news, its going forward now when i press forward, and back when i press reverse, put i have to press forward twice for it to go forward and reverse is much faster than forward 

[Berzerk]

i think i have the esc to motor connectors in the wrong holes XV

 

edit

 

i will take the motor compartment off and put the blue/yellow/orange wires in the correct holes

Edited May 11, 2016 by Berzerk

[chewbacca]

2 minutes ago, Berzerk said:

i think i have the esc to motor connectors in the wrong holes XV

Easily done! Just swap 2 of the wires with each other. 

[XV Pilot]

That is possible but unlikely - usually a sensored motor would run very roughly or not at all if the wires were connected wrong.

 

Did you go through recalibrating the ESC again once you reversed the throttle switch?

[Berzerk]

Just now, XV Pilot said:

That is possible but unlikely - usually a sensored motor would run very roughly or not at all if the wires were connected wrong.

 

Did you go through recalibrating the ESC again once you reversed the throttle switch?

 

yes i turned everything off, switch the tx to reverse throttle and then put the esc in brushless mode again by holding setup and turning the receiver on

[XV Pilot]

As for the FF questions, you can extend the link between the servo saver and the steering rack so that the servo saver can remain upright at neatral. Here is a pic of mine:

 

 

Feeling for binding is best achieved before hooking up the servo, so you can move the linkages by hand.