ROBSTER 1992 Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 I do like the look of the Alloy Radio Trays I've actually got one on my other Fg Marder they look nice my other Fg Marder is also In bits I need to work on that one to its fully hoped up with Alloy parts and Stainless Steel Parts only problem is it's made it quite heavy it's like lifting a tone of bricks it's all about power to Wight Ratio if the Car is to Heavy it will slow it down if the Car is Light as a Feather it will be Fast I also want to keep this Fg Marder with all plastic bits because plastic is light or if I can get my hands on a load of Carbon Fibre bits I will put them on it. This Marder is so light at the Front it pulls Wheelies and it's fun when it does that I can actually hold it and pull long Wheelies now it puts a Smile on my face.[emoji12] Smile More Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROBSTER 1992 Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Decided to polish my top of my Chassis with Autosol it's nice and Shiny now also stripped it down a bit more as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROBSTER 1992 Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Anyone know where I can get Carbon Fibre bits From. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROBSTER 1992 Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Just took my Rear Hubs of because the threads are completely knackered in them and now I can't get the Wheel Drive cup out of it and the Wheel Square won't move as well its Seized and won't move. Any Suggestions how i can do this. Need the wheel drive cup out of it and the wheel square + bearings because I've got some Spare hubs that I can use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark35 Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 (edited) spanner on the square and a flat bar in the cup. Edited February 25, 2016 by mark35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 If the upright is knackered .... you could always cut it off. The square will be glued on by a mix of threadlock and corrosion. Heat should shift one. Take the grubs screws fully out, and apply heat to melt threadlock. Once you free of hte square, the axle will just tap out of the bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROBSTER 1992 Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Thinking of getting Fast Eddy Bearings for my hubs do any of you guys use them are they any good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 I source my bearings from bearing stockists...and I never buy bearings in 'named packets'. 'Fast Eddy' just picks bearings...puts them in bags with his logo on and charges a markup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark35 Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Innovative rc do bearings at a good price http://www.innovative-rc.com/12x24x6mm-ball-bearing-rubber-shield-b089-p-572.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROBSTER 1992 Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Guys anyone know the size of the 3 Screws for the Diff Guard under my Chassis just ordered a New Diff Guard and I have ask the guy who I brought it of if he can give me the screws with it but he is unsure on size of the Screws I need and I don't know the size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCbutcher Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Most fgs I had came with wood screws 10 sizes too big lol. One of the fg pet hates. Bodgers not modders lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROBSTER 1992 Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 Anyone got any idea of the size of the Screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark35 Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 38 minutes ago, RCbutcher said: Most fgs I had came with wood screws 10 sizes too big lol. One of the fg pet hates. Bodgers not modders lol. Lol... 45 minutes ago, ROBSTER 1992 said: Guys anyone know the size of the 3 Screws for the Diff Guard under my Chassis just ordered a New Diff Guard and I have ask the guy who I brought it of if he can give me the screws with it but he is unsure on size of the Screws I need and I don't know the size. M4 ×8mm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROBSTER 1992 Posted February 25, 2016 Author Share Posted February 25, 2016 M4 ×8mm Thanks for that Mark35.[emoji106] 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 You mentioned earlier the alloy radio tray, weight, etc. One advantage of the alloy tray is its much more rigid - the standard position throttle / brake will flex the normal plastic one very easily, particularly when braking. Some have kept the plastic tray, but braced it in additional places to limit the flexing (bending) under heavy braking, particularly when upgrading the servo. Carbon fibre bits are available from Hobbythek, but can often be found on Ebay. Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROBSTER 1992 Posted February 26, 2016 Author Share Posted February 26, 2016 I got it apart today. [emoji4][emoji4][emoji4][emoji4] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fasi Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 On 2/23/2016 at 23:13, ROBSTER 1992 said: This is the Cylinder Head I'm thinking of getting. http://www.freeprawnracing.co.uk/esp-championship-ported-2-bolt-36mm-285cc-big-bore-kit-cc251.html Hello there, I would suggest u to go for a modified head kit by esp with 2mm crank shaft and pair of fast Eddie bearings, And throw a decent tune pipe on ur mardar's back, U will not be disappointed. Cheers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROBSTER 1992 Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 I think the Rear hub that I'm pointing at was a bit knackered in the middle the one on the right is completely different. The one I'm pointing at was the one that was on the car before replacing it with the one on the right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROBSTER 1992 Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 Also changing my rear lower arms as well I found some spare ones I had and they are a lot longer than the ones that were on the car before will make the rear wider and help it so it doesn't tip over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rover Man Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 Have you got longer drive shafts to suite the longer arms ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROBSTER 1992 Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 Have you got longer drive shafts to suite the longer arms ??? Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROBSTER 1992 Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 Im going to get the Team fast eddy Bearings now because when I got that rear hub apart I used a hammer and whacked the Wheel Shaft out of it and knackered my bearings they are still useable but my wheels wobble side to side and don't run straight need to sort it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark35 Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Do your self a favour Rob and buy your bearings either from the link I posted or source your own from a bearing suppliers, dont pay X amount extra just for that stupid face on the packaging...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 22 minutes ago, mark35 said: Do your self a favour Rob and buy your bearings either from the link I posted or source your own from a bearing suppliers, dont pay X amount extra just for that stupid face on the packaging...lol ABSOLUTELY CORRECT! Buying 'branded' bearings like that is an utter waste of cash. If you want...I'll buy some bearings, stick them in a packet and double the price for you. I promise to put an attractive label on and tell you they are specifically for your RC application..... Fit decent rubber shielded bearings, grease the axle where it runs through the bearing to stop it rusting in place, and replace when sloppy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rctruckz Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 ive had mine from these places in past, price spot on & never any issues: http://www.onlinebearings.co.uk/Miniature-Bearings/ http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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