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RB E ONE R


Matt888

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1 hour ago, Dropback said:

Just finished building mine and now looking for a motor, ESC and servo to finish off, any recommendations on what to buy?

I am going to start with a Hobbyking motor/esc combo, luckily got one in another car. Servo, more than likely get a Savox, my local rc store now stocks them.

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I used the esc and motor from my Basher bsr Rally I haven't had time to run it yet, to see how it runs.

I was thinking when I bought one to get this motor.

http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__29625__Turnigy_TrackStar_1_8th_Sensored_Brushless_Motor_2350KV_UK_Warehouse_.html

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And this esc.

http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__64619__TrackStar_150A_GenII_1_8th_Scale_Sensored_Brushless_Car_ESC_PC_Programmable_UK_Warehouse_.html

But I'm not sure if this is compatible with the motor as the motor says max 126A so will the 150A esc burn it out? 

Edited by Matt888
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I've just cut out the shell and placed it on the chassis and oh no, it doesn't fit over the esc. To get it to fit on I had to move the esc forward and it is now touching the centre diff, I'm now wondering will it get enough air to keep cool. 

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On 1/5/2016 at 4:08 PM, Dropback said:
On 1/5/2016 at 6:37 PM, Matt888 said:

And this esc.

http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__64619__TrackStar_150A_GenII_1_8th_Scale_Sensored_Brushless_Car_ESC_PC_Programmable_UK_Warehouse_.html

But I'm not sure if this is compatible with the motor as the motor says max 126A so will the 150A esc burn it out? 

 

In respect of the amps it'll be fine, the esc is like a valve, the motor will draw a 'continuous max' current of 126a (peaks will be more), which is within the 150a that the ESC can allow to flow through it (continuously, esc will have a burst rating much higher).

 

I would advise caution re the GENII esc though, I've not heard to many good things about them, likewise the Toro 150a that RB sell as there own.  If I had to choose between the two then one form a LHS trumps Hobbyking everytime - price is very similar too.

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59 minutes ago, capri-boy said:

In respect of the amps it'll be fine, the esc is like a valve, the motor will draw a 'continuous max' current of 126a (peaks will be more), which is within the 150a that the ESC can allow to flow through it (continuously, esc will have a burst rating much higher).

 

I would advise caution re the GENII esc though, I've not heard to many good things about them, likewise the Toro 150a that RB sell as there own.  If I had to choose between the two then one form a LHS trumps Hobbyking everytime - price is very similar too.

Is this the one you mean? 

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=321965680560&alt=web

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3 hours ago, capri-boy said:

In respect of the amps it'll be fine, the esc is like a valve, the motor will draw a 'continuous max' current of 126a (peaks will be more), which is within the 150a that the ESC can allow to flow through it (continuously, esc will have a burst rating much higher).

 

I would advise caution re the GENII esc though, I've not heard to many good things about them, likewise the Toro 150a that RB sell as there own.  If I had to choose between the two then one form a LHS trumps Hobbyking everytime - price is very similar too.

U could  get a hobbywing for less and there sweet...xerun...quikrun..ezrun...

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9 hours ago, Deafty said:

It's ok

tenshock and xerun would be my pick: best value imo

Where can I find these? Any links and what's the best to get for the buggy?

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On 1/5/2016 at 4:08 PM, Dropback said:
21 minutes ago, evssv said:

2100kv I'd go for :yes:..on 6s it wil  mental :thumbsup:

 

Small issue of conical cut gears in the diffs.  I've only run an annsmann briefly with similar but my impression is there not as robust as straight cut....

 

 

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9 minutes ago, capri-boy said:

Small issue of conical cut gears in the diffs.  I've only run an annsmann briefly with similar but my impression is there not as robust as straight cut....

 

 

I agree completely with this, they will never have the strength or durability as straight cut gears. The only reason conical cut gears really exist is to reduce noise.  Nit really something we worry about in our hobby, but in our luxury on road car, we certainly do! :) 

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2 hours ago, capri-boy said:

Small issue of conical cut gears in the diffs.  I've only run an annsmann briefly with similar but my impression is there not as robust as straight cut....

 

 

Stick to 4s then:yes:..still b quik enuff .....and I'm  sure my mt4g3 has the same cut gears and that takes 6s jus fine 

Edited by evssv
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4s 5s 6s, whatever,.

As far as diffs are concerned (imo) it's all about kv rating of the motor.  If u over volt and over gear a race bred buggy there will always be related issues with it.

++++++++++++

without knowing the drive ratio I'd say between 1500 and 2400kv depending on cell count.  I generally don't let my motors spin up over 40000rpm

so 1600kv max limit on 6s, 1900ish 5s,  2400 on 4s.

This however is my opinion.  Others may push the envelope further fyi

15 hours ago, Matt888 said:

Where can I find these? Any links and what's the best to get for the buggy?

edit: fyi a higher voltage setup will run more efficently as the watts drawn by the motor require lesss amps (longer run time and cooler temps)  Watts=Volts x Amps.

Edited by Deafty
fyi
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7 hours ago, bunnie said:

Very tempted to get one of these. Finger hovering over the buy button.  Been a while since I built a kit. 

Go for it, PBM racing are listing one left in stock, very good kit, last build I did was a 1/16th, so at least time I can see the parts !.

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1 hour ago, QRC said:

Go for it, PBM racing are listing one left in stock, very good kit, last build I did was a 1/16th, so at least time I can see the parts !.

Thanks for the heads up. I went to buy it last night as 2 was showing then by time I went to add it to basket they was gone :-( but I've now got the 1 that was just listed :-D 

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