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DEADBOLT


turok007

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IMO, a great option is some nice alloy beadlock wheels, perhaps the alloy c hubs, knuckles and lock outs, then you can add Axial CVD's for a nice tight turning circle.

Aside from that, nothing at all.

I'm still running mine on a stock drivetrain, I've run it with a 14t brushed motor and it was quick because of the tyre dia, in fact it melted the end right off the moor after about 35 minutes of gentle running, then I gave it some flat out stuff and it melted lol.

If I was really fussy, I'd suggest some better tyres, BUT the stockers are actually a nice grippy tyre, especially with a nice beadlock and some light weights, I think I have 30g in each front wheel and 15 or 20g in each rear wheels, keep rotational mass to a minimum.

Beef tubes are a good way of lowering the CoG without adding rotational mass.

And IMO, the battery is fine at the back, it's a complete myth that you MUST move them up to the front, complete crap.

With the weight of the motor, ESC, receiver and BEC if you run one (I'd possibly advise you do, a nice Castle one is spot on) then the weight is pretty well distributed.

I have run in both configurations and it's far more down to driver ability than where your battery is.

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I'm inclined to disagree with keeping the battery in the back. Had mine in the back of the Wraith originally (I know it's not an SCX but the theory is the same),moved it up front and it was like driving a different car when crawling up steep hills

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48 minutes ago, Steven.T said:

I'm inclined to disagree with keeping the battery in the back. Had mine in the back of the Wraith originally (I know it's not an SCX but the theory is the same),moved it up front and it was like driving a different car when crawling up steep hills

Yep your right, tried it both ways in my wraith too and it works better up front but very different beasts the wraith and scx10 fella.

battery is much better placed over the rear axle :good:

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My daughters scx is the only rc I've actually left alone lol. But two things that do annoy me with it are. The battery mounted up front makes it do endo's. Then if you throttle it against a wall the rear end twists up. Torque twist? 

I might try and fix those.  But it's all about looks for me which isn't even great on this being pink and i cocked that up anyway. I do plan on making a real nice body some day for it tho. 

 

Oh and some of those really nice alloy beadlocks supposed to be clones of a high make I think. No idea what ther called tho. Black/silver from ebay.  

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3 hours ago, Steven.T said:

I'm inclined to disagree with keeping the battery in the back. Had mine in the back of the Wraith originally (I know it's not an SCX but the theory is the same),moved it up front and it was like driving a different car when crawling up steep hills

No comparison.

I had a Wraith in fact I've had several, and they are better with the battery up front.

Because they have a HoG because of the cage and interior, they also sit higher up.

In an SCX10, it's complete crap that the battery needs moving, I've used both configurations in an actual SCX10 :P

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i will try all positions for the lipo.  but i want to get the steering beefed up first  And i was thinking about wheel wideners  but after giving it a run over the furniture & presents i might leave them for now as it handled ok. 

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On 12/22/2015, 8:18:21, big gaz said:

Yep your right, tried it both ways in my wraith too and it works better up front but very different beasts the wraith and scx10 fella.

battery is much better placed over the rear axle :good:

I've moved the battery up front in my SCX aswell, never had it in the back to begin with, however it's now mounted sideways instead of the normal axial way, rolled far too much with it in the stock position!

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Great trucks endless options creates endless opinions lol. It's  crazy there's so many options cos looking at them there's nothing to them but axles on a metal bracket. 

There's a mental video of one with mamba 2200kv or tekin big motor. He only jumped a kerb clearing another scx10.  The run up to the kerb was only two feet or so tho. 

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swap your batterys out to something like a 4600mah 2s compact hardcase.

90-100mm long and around 50mm wide , they are used in 1/12th pan cars and likes and with a 4600mah capacity at 7.4v its gonna run that lathe motor for hours lol.
its what i will shove into the front of my ultra4 buggy for extra weight upfront and bite on the front end when climbing trails.

 

was looking at a deadbolt myself then found the dingo kit going for £212 , but i like the rubicon jeep and the honcho styles to and they all got differing price tags. 

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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  • 3 weeks later...

I picked up a scx10 deadbolt to tide me over until I make some decisions on a self build.

Is there a fix for the chassis hitting the steering arm at around 3/4 compression?

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