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I dare you !


Philxj4L

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Couldn't seem to find exactly the right spot for this, but here goes. 

As per title, to charge this fine LiPo ! 3s 1800mAh  35C

this is how it arrived, brand new and fitted in a non RC application. 

28F6CF96-95A6-4F7B-B6D9-38107EA7C255_zps

i couldn't get it out quick enough, and it was arcing on the metal case as it was coming out. It was also wedged tight into the space due to the amount of distortion of the LiPo. As soon as I got it out, it was launched to the end of the garden, I'd be very worried about puttin this in a recycle bank. The marked 1800mAh is at best, 1200-1290mAh, so who knows how far off the mark the claimed 35C is  

how stable compared to other LiPos are Turnigy nano-techs ? As in, are they any more of less likely are they to try to turn themselves into fire bombs ? 

 

 

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I have had many failed nanotechs, notably the 2s 6.0 and 6.6, high C packs.

Had a 5s 8000mah fail with two dropped cells, Hobbyking gave a partial refund claiming it was safe to use, despite the swelling! 

Just had to purchase some 3s packs for the X, I have warrantied them and sticking a cell checker on them, cells are all over the place. I'll cycle them a couple of times on the Hyperion and likely as not do a warranty claim anyway.

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After a week or so, assuming there's no 'activity', put it into a saline bucket of water for a week.

I'd normally GENTLY discharge a battery first - lamp, or old motor running light - until its at low voltage.

If you're not comfortable, just ensure nobody goes near for a few months - mother nature and the rain will see to much of what's required.

If you can, I'd measure the remaining voltage. If it's quite low, then you can proceed immediately to Plan A - the saline water.

Al.

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4 hours ago, Basher 46 said:

Crist what was it being used for ?

 One of these. 

320E51AE-40F6-406F-8DB7-CDE2AE0CE7A9_zps

the box has a max 200w @ 4.7.3A output. That's handled through an Evolv, DNA200 chip that has its own software package, and an onboard balance charge circuit @ 1A in. 

Thats for the advice on the cells, I'd be looking at the nano tech 3s 1300mAh 25C (50 burst) that's what'll fit. There's a 1300, 45C, but it's 2mm longer and could be tight on space

Edited by Philxj4L
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11 minutes ago, evssv said:

what is it???

Nicotine delivery system. :D it's one of my Vape kits, stopped smoking 5th Jan last year not touched one since. 

Ive 3 of those boxes, the LiPos in the other 2 have been OK to use, but way short of the claimed 1800mAh. After seein this 3s I want them all gone and something less likely to turn into a venting mess in my hand. 

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12 hours ago, gouldypg said:

Lol so you could have put that horrible contraption in your mouth and the lipo swelled like that?

Count yourself lucky I'd say

Well They do say smoking is bad for your health :P

Horrible contraption ! How very dare you ! It's a very handsome set up that is. :D 

Well ok, it is a bit 'Essex' in the white & black, but it's a fine lookin box. lol 

seriously though, I'm lucky to know enough about LiPos to keep me out of too much trouble. This one didn't get as far as the charge lead. The other 2 are regularly 3" away from my face. :)  The worrying thing is, these boxes are being sent out to people who have no clue about LiPos. This had the potential to go VERY wrong for an unsuspecting user ! 

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looks like a fat stubby res on a pro mod box, running a high ohms draw through a dedicated micro controller and a 7.2v power system ( 7.4v if you use two 3.7v cells ).

diagnosis,: battery power system was incorrectly sized for the compartment leading to chaffing of the outer plastic covering allowing contact to short the cell pack.
Poor layout and spacing in the device and the user maybe trying to squeeze a cell thats just a tad to big.

I bet that thing kicks like a mule on the old throat lol

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1 hour ago, Tamiyacowboy said:

 

looks like a fat stubby res on a pro mod box, running a high ohms draw through a dedicated micro controller and a 7.2v power system ( 7.4v if you use two 3.7v cells ).

diagnosis,: battery power system was incorrectly sized for the compartment leading to chaffing of the outer plastic covering allowing contact to short the cell pack.
Poor layout and spacing in the device and the user maybe trying to squeeze a cell thats just a tad to big.

I bet that thing kicks like a mule on the old throat lol

The stock 3s (that hasn't deformed) slips in nicely, its snug, but there's just enough room. The main problem is the cheap, nasty LiPos, made by, or just labled 'Power'  they're designed to be charged in the box, so no need to remove/refit constantly. This thing arrived so badly deformed it was wedged tight in the body.

The first ones had a magnetic cover on one side, which was handy. The latest have replaced the magnets with 4 hex head screws, NOT a good idea if a  LiPo goes bad, and the DNA200 chip don't come cheap. 

Edited by Philxj4L
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Aye i know about modding boxes , was using an e-cig about 3-4yr ago. joined a modding forum, and in the last month or so made a couple modboxes for a forum member using 3d printing.

chips are cheating lol, you should try winding your own coil heaters lol, its a right minefield of ohms-volts yadda yadda.
thr from magnet to hex bolt is a more stonger upgrade, its captured lid mean it add strength to the box, but like lipos in cases they need to be able to expand a tad and also vent out. I noticed all 3d print boxes never had a venting hole ( all comercial e-cigs have a vent hole incase of a thermal runaway ). 

anyone who owned a zippo lighter and used it in the field will say they used to strip it down and clean it fairly often, you clean n check your car etc etc, you check your face in the mirror each day yet a electronic device is just left , you think its going to be safe by itself as its clever and has auto features. onboard charging i would bypass that and just use a dedicated charger. this way the dna board is not using that secondary  function it becomes benevolent , but it also means your always opening the device and checking it internally .

 

here how i think that battery damaged up.

it was first installed and then tested with a cartomizer fitted, over time the unit heats up, that dna chipset regulates voltage and current, but with that come some cons, the major one is heat. this is produced via the chipset and the heating elements. the battery soaks this heat up being close to these areas, and when in use the battery expands and contract under cooling (lipos puff a tiny bit under use but its less than the 5% recomended my makers so its all good) But modders cannot take this into account so that battery is squeezed into a already small compartment. the above heat and use causes battery to puff this and the case being locked down presses the connector and it punchures the cheap plastic and a bit more rubbing as its goggled around in pockets and likes causes the batterys terminal covers to wear and a short to occour.

all lipos come in differnet sizes there is NO set sizing unlike the old nicad and nimh battery packs we used to run, a 6cell nimh pack was around the same size as other makers at the time all these came from the popular tamiya batterys we all used to own at one point and still do. so this becomes a minefield to modders also , being attached to one maker is a pain, and its not to say they wont go under in todays climate of purchase and selling

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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46 minutes ago, Tamiyacowboy said:

 

Aye i know about modding boxes , was using an e-cig about 3-4yr ago. joined a modding forum, and in the last month or so made a couple modboxes for a forum member using 3d printing.

chips are cheating lol, you should try winding your own coil heaters lol, its a right minefield of ohms-volts yadda yadda.
thr from magnet to hex bolt is a more stonger upgrade, its captured lid mean it add strength to the box, but like lipos in cases they need to be able to expand a tad and also vent out. I noticed all 3d print boxes never had a venting hole ( all comercial e-cigs have a vent hole incase of a thermal runaway ). 

anyone who owned a zippo lighter and used it in the field will say they used to strip it down and clean it fairly often, you clean n check your car etc etc, you check your face in the mirror each day yet a electronic device is just left , you think its going to be safe by itself as its clever and has auto features. onboard charging i would bypass that and just use a dedicated charger. this way the dna board is not using that secondary  function it becomes benevolent , but it also means your always opening the device and checking it internally .

 

here how i think that battery damaged up.

it was first installed and then tested with a cartomizer fitted, over time the unit heats up, that dna chipset regulates voltage and current, but with that come some cons, the major one is heat. this is produced via the chipset and the heating elements. the battery soaks this heat up being close to these areas, and when in use the battery expands and contract under cooling (lipos puff a tiny bit under use but its less than the 5% recomended my makers so its all good) But modders cannot take this into account so that battery is squeezed into a already small compartment. the above heat and use causes battery to puff this and the case being locked down presses the connector and it punchures the cheap plastic and a bit more rubbing as its goggled around in pockets and likes causes the batterys terminal covers to wear and a short to occour.

all lipos come in differnet sizes there is NO set sizing unlike the old nicad and nimh battery packs we used to run, a 6cell nimh pack was around the same size as other makers at the time all these came from the popular tamiya batterys we all used to own at one point and still do. so this becomes a minefield to modders also , being attached to one maker is a pain, and its not to say they wont go under in todays climate of purchase and selling

Cheers, some info in there I didn't have. :) 

the 3D printing sounds like it may solve a problem. I've a crazy half idea of getting the internals of a VTbox transplanted into a 'trigger grip' detonator to use as a mod.  Lol

i may have dabbled a bit on the coils side of things. :D

4C4C066C-E1DF-44DB-B4FC-3E405E72A279_zps

 

Fused Clapton. .47ohm.   Twin, parallel coils .25ohm 

twin clapton coils .32ohm  Twin micro coils .4ohm 

Quad twisted coils .19ohm  Quad zipper coils .08ohm 

the twin micro was my first 'build' it was on a Zephyrus rebuildable coil head, and tiny. Twin parallel is on a goblin mini, twin claptons, Zeph deck (both the same deck) 

the 2 quad builds where ****s & giggles things. The quad twisted needed 140w+ to get going. The quad zipper was a whole different beast ! There was actually 8 coils there. Zippers are parallel coils, 1 wound clockwise, the other anti-clockwise, then slotted together. The mod I had would fire down to .03ohm, turns out, just because it can, doesn't mean it will. I threw 160w & 47.5A at that for 30 seconds, all I got was a wisp of smoke. You can see the new wire is barely discoloured. I stripped 1 side off, that brought it up to .18ohm and it still happily swallowed 160w. :) 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Huge thanks for the advice guys. :D I picked up a pair of Turnigy nano techs, 1300mAh 25C (50C burst)  pre plugged with Deans for £27 delivered, they even arrived next day. 

The stock cells had been lasting 22-25 hours between charging, the 1st of the nano techs has lasted 45hrs ! The stock LiPos must be way worse than I thought, and I already thought they where true pieces of ****. :) 

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