Huktonfonics Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 (edited) I just destroyed the plastic casing on my XL2, is there anywhere to get a replacement other than sending it over to castle for almost $200 for a non warranty repair? ( ridiculous right ? ) or if anyone has a spare from a blown or broken one ? Edited October 23, 2015 by Huktonfonics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huktonfonics Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 I sorted it, i called Castle and they sell the parts direct. Yippeee ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capri-boy Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 I sorted it, i called Castle and they sell the parts direct. Yippeee !Bonus! Might give them a call myself to see if they do out of warranty repairs on the Flux Blur. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huktonfonics Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 Bonus! Might give them a call myself to see if they do out of warranty repairs on the Flux Blur.£16 quid all in inc postage which isnt bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huktonfonics Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 Case arrived yesterday, all back together and working fine. Just 1 question for anyone who may know, a third or fourth opinion from folks who are into RC. when the ESC fell apart, between the upper and lower heat sink, looked to be some sort of thermal paste. I cleaned off the old stuff and applied some PC Cpu thermal paste ( Arctic Silver ). This should be good for the heat transfer right ? Its all making contact nicely. The CPU temps on a pc are usually hotter for extended periods of time than on an ESC. Any insight. cheers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huktonfonics Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 (edited) Ps. Ive read that mixing araldite with thermal paste works for " adding " a heat sink to an ESC that has none ( thermal epoxy ).But as the XL2 has a case which clamps the heatsinks down onto the PCB board and components, shouldnt be an issue right ? No thermal epoxy required ? Paste will suffice ? Edited November 8, 2015 by Huktonfonics 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean-vrs Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 That's what I would of done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 So long as it's non-conducting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huktonfonics Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 Just got home and went to double check this bottle, and its not Arctic Silver as i thought, but this one. http://www.jetart.com.tw/index.php?do=prod&toppid=102&pid=160&id=61 Not a bloody clue if its non conductive or not. Gonna google the crap out of this, as i cant find any info other than it being a thermal conductor. fill me in if ive missed something, as im not powering this sucker up till im 100% sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 If it's thermal paste designed for a PC CPU, then it will be non conductive. Should work fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Just wanted to make sure it'd been considered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 Well, now that worry has subsided here's another question: assuming your ESC has the small, red dot on the underside of the case, have the foam blocks been refitted inside, that castle fitted to prevent the board frying? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 +1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huktonfonics Posted November 8, 2015 Author Share Posted November 8, 2015 Cheers fellas, i shot an email off to the manufacturer to ask the question before getting back to read this. As always appreciate the help. When i first powered it up it seemed fine, and i applied it very neat and kept away from any of the legs on the mosfets, only applied to the chip face and the 2 silver strips on each side on both faces. Weather permiting, ill see how it stands up to some abuse. No more skate park ramps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huktonfonics Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 Went and got some Cooler Master E2 thermal compound, non conductive. Was only £7 not much for peace of mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 What about the foam pads????I am being serious. The v1 XL2 vented for fun, until the addition of these blocks to hold the board steady. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huktonfonics Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 What about the foam pads????I am being serious. The v1 XL2 vented for fun, until the addition of these blocks to hold the board steady.the only foam pad on it was on the little board that attatches to the mosfet board, thats still intact. On first inspection after the incident, there was only black thermal compound and that one orange pad. After reassembling it just, its all tight. Is there a way to identify if its a V1 or V2 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 That is the pad!The v2 ESC had a small red dot on the underside of the case, just under the caps. If you bought the ESC within the last three years, it'll be a v2 for sure....the pad confirms that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huktonfonics Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 Nevermind i just googled it and it was documented on castles website, foam pad is intact cheers Noj 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 As Noj is saying, without that pad, the jolt from landing a jump would short the main battery cables where they enter the housing. I know, it happened to mine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Such a simple fix for a silly design flaw....It works well. Very well, as Beasto will testify to. A much maligned ESC, yet mine has outlasted two chassis's, three steering servos, two RPM rear skidplates/bumper mounts, a set of castle battery straps, one front RPM arm, one stock front top plate, one HPI shell and numerous silverback front rims.Thank you, small block of orange foam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Such a simple fix for a silly design flaw....It works well. Very well, as Beasto will testify to. A much maligned ESC, yet mine has outlasted two chassis's, three steering servos, two RPM rear skidplates/bumper mounts, a set of castle battery straps, one front RPM arm, one stock front top plate, one HPI shell and numerous silverback front rims.Thank you, small block of orange foam Unbelievable, but all that damage from one runaway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 If a job's worth doing....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huktonfonics Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 Think i forgot to mention, after the incident, when the esc fell apart, that little control boards connector was sitting on the pi$$. Had to squeeze it back flat onto the pcb board, it wasnt hanging off or by any means " loose ", more like it tried to pry itself off lol ( that little foam pad probably prevented total destruction ). I mite add a little extra something to that area to try and prevent any more damage. Would a few globs of hot glue be ok to put around the joints to prevent heaving it completley off the main board if such an incident were to happen again ?The incident in question was at least a modest 25ft vertical jump off a skate park ramp, on a hyper ST with a 1717 and 6s, landed on all 4 but went splat. Not doing it ever again, the shocks just went splat, front dog bone boomeranged and the esc shattered into all its major components ( wasnt my goal, but it was like i had tourets finger or summat, gunned the life out of it ). I had some HPI Hellfire red springs plus the smaller spring that goes with them on the rears and reds on front too. Theyre the stiffest springs ive been able to find for the stock shocks that fit perfect and stop it bottoming out from all the weight. Sorry for rambling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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