Newbie help please (Maverick Scout)

[hms]

Hi, I'm 39 and rediscovering my childhood and have now a few Tamiyas in my fleet. I am about to receive a Maverick Scout on Tuesday. Much as I love my buggies, my work pattern and available space precludes me getting the most out of them. I have spent ages researching this forum and others and have decided a rock-crawler is the way ahead.

My little boy is 3 and my girl is 18 months. My wife let me do this as I convinced her it would be good education for them, and I truly want it to be..anyway...

 

I'm new to rock crawling and have tried to research all I can on Maverick Scouts but I cannot find the answers to these things:

 

I understand the transmission etc is totally dry and needs greasing. The only manual online I have found shows no diagramatics etc. Is it easy to strip & re-build?

I have read of the need to add weights to the wheels. Are the wheels already glued on? Is there some method to get them off?

I have read about "lowering the body" but cannot find anything to say how it is actually done.

 

Apologies for the bone questions, I would be very grateful for any advice or tips. Thankyou.

[bobisox2]

I agree with the education has I have 4 kids lol there love it with the rock crawler I am new too bud if I am right saying transmission is the centre driff

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

[stretch]

Hi there's lots of threads on the scout on here search for 'scout' will yield lots of info on them.

 

The tyres are held on by beadlocks ie theres a ring on the outside of the wheel with lots of little hex screws on it you take these out and the wheel comes apart and releases the tyre.

 

Lowering the body is simply a metter of making 4 holes 2 on either side above where the existing ones are.

Edited July 12, 2015 by stretch

[Tamiyacowboy]

Hi, I'm 39 and rediscovering my childhood and have now a few Tamiyas in my fleet. I am about to receive a Maverick Scout on Tuesday. Much as I love my buggies, my work pattern and available space precludes me getting the most out of them. I have spent ages researching this forum and others and have decided a rock-crawler is the way ahead.

My little boy is 3 and my girl is 18 months. My wife let me do this as I convinced her it would be good education for them, and I truly want it to be..anyway...

 

I'm new to rock crawling and have tried to research all I can on Maverick Scouts but I cannot find the answers to these things:

 

I understand the transmission etc is totally dry and needs greasing. The only manual online I have found shows no diagramatics etc. Is it easy to strip & re-build?

I have read of the need to add weights to the wheels. Are the wheels already glued on? Is there some method to get them off?

I have read about "lowering the body" but cannot find anything to say how it is actually done.

 

Apologies for the bone questions, I would be very grateful for any advice or tips. Thankyou.

 

 

 

 

transmission aka the  transfer box / gearbox - center diff. 

In most rc they will come either very dry ( dry as in not much grease used) or wet ( filled with grease / or oils )

On your scout it is used to also hold your vertical plates ( those two shine plates each side of the chassis )

so when you want to get into the tranny you will NEED to take the whole truck apart. 

 

for a newcomer this can be some like a wwII mine field , the most best advice is we now have phones with cameras

so pictures can help rebuilding, take a picture remove part -take picture- remove part , rinse and repeat, then use those images to help re-build. 

for the first couple months a dry tranny is not much to worry about in a slow crawler, so take a couple months to learn to pull apart the model and rebuild it.

to help the gearbox/tranny/transfer we use a little black grease ( no need to build a wall here with it, or try ice a cake) you just want to lube it up so it helps

not hinders .

 

Beadlockers : cool wheel rims 

 

So a new word, beadlocker, these are wheel rims that come in two - three parts or more.

and are held in place with small allen bolts. a small rim center is placed into the tyre ( it has holes for the bead ring to screw to)

and your bead ring is placed overtop, when locked down into place it captures the tyres bead rim ( the part that is usually superglued)

and sandwiches it in place, NO MORE SUPERGLUE ever, undo the bead ring slip out the parts and pop them into a new tyre, bolt it up and away you go.

 

Wheel weights: 

 

you will notice your scout is what we call top heavy. it likes to topple over sometimes or struggles on certain rocky outcrops.

it scrabbles up but just does not seem to geip the rocks and try to hug them with the tyres. wheel weights are stuck with tape to the small center rim inside the

beadlocker wheel rims, they add much needed weight lower down and help your truck keep planted feet down and not its belly up in the air.

weights can also help with grip and climbing to and usually does show a big difference. ( lower the weight in the chassis the lower the center of gravity ) so it all helps

with drive and grip.

 

Body modding : aka the lift or the drop 

 

look at your model from a side preview, you can see the body is high up and this also means the weight of that body is high up 

so some drivers adjust the chassis / body mounting to lower it a little. it does depend on the driver if he/she wants to carry this type of modding out

 

 

and an extra helpful like to the maverick scout manual with exploded views for you to strip down and re-build

 

http://www.hpiracing.co.uk/pdf/Scout_Manual_2.4_Update.pdf

[ghazghul]

I think on a stock Scout you might get away with detaching all the upper links at the chassis, disconnecting the motor and then undoing the four screws on the bottom of the chassis to release the  transmission / motor.  It depends if you get enough movement from undoing the links to rotate the axles and separate the drive shaft male and female halves and then wiggling it out.  If not then removing the lower links too on the rear will let it out that way.

 

The actual transmission is pretty straightforwards to split open and grease.

 

When fitting it again don't over tighten the four screws holding it to the chassis as the threads in the transmission case like to strip / split.  The applies to all metal screws into plastic really...

[hms]

Thanks for the replies. Unfortunately for me, once my parcel travelled the length of England in one day (next day delivery) it encountered the "janner factor". I'm based in Plymouth and that's where the spanner entered the works.

My wife was home all day today and received a text saying delivery between 1300-14:00. At 14:30 she received a text saying "sorry we were unable to deliver as you were not home". She immediately phoned the depot who said the driver had pressed the wrong button and it would be delivered later today.

It's not here.

I feel like a little kid on chrstmas eve who wakes up to find buggerall under his bed. I'm quite looking forward to a wide-ranging & robust discussion with the depot in the morning.

 

Cheers citylink

Edited July 14, 2015 by hms

[Tamiyacowboy]

Always happens Hms 

 

but a good note is, when it does arrive your going to be squealing like a young school girl getting her

first boyfriend lol. 

 

good things come to those that wait a little longer lol. 

 

i would be placing the wife under the heat lamp and checking to see if she has not hidden said item so you

do your chores first. 

 

put the bins out

get rid of the dead bird/mouse/rat the cat dragged in.

wash the car

wash the dishes

fix the dishwasher

and last but not least sort out the kids 

i was going to say cut the grass, but any man would have dug that up and replaced it with a shingle drive

every male hates the lawn mower chore

 

lol 

Edited July 14, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy

[hms]

Finally got the bugger!! One of the rear suspension trailing arms was hanging loose when I got it so had to unsrew the socket then screw that on etc..and back in. Very happy so far. A mate from work has some spare lead so that's the tyre mod sorted. I notice there are different positions for the suspension arms. What is the best config to choose?

How do I go about lowering or re-positioning the battery from the stock position for optimal C of G?

 

I dont have the balls to strip down the gears to grease them yet, tonight will be spent riding over kids toys and cushions in the living room!!

 

Thanks for any advice

[Tamiyacowboy]

have a weeks play buddy and enjoy. 

 

first get used to how it drives now, then in a weeks time say next weekend

look at what you would like to strengthen in the chassis, maybe the steering more direct

or a little lower on the chassis or shocks - body

maybe a battery shift around etc etc. 

 

always good to see what needs doing after a couple weeks running

you then know where your wanting those changes and can do them over time to

[hms]

Thankyou for taking the time to reply!

The small roll of lead I thought I had in my garage (I have since been reminded) I binned 6 months ago as "I'll never need it". I've decided on weighting my wheels and lowering the C of G is definately a priority. During the very little time I've been able to experiment so far, one thing has highlighted itself..this thing likes to roll over! I've decided I'm going to buy some wide gauge solder wire and use that to weight the wheels, would that be OK?

 

I will lower the body shell slightly also but, my main concern is the battery. I do not want to go down the LiPo route. Not at this stage. I've only started building RC buggies since January and I'm on a big learning curve. Is there a method to lower the stock NiMh battery?? I'm a beginner at this sort of thing and without experience, I have relied on Tamiya schematics to guide me in this hobbie so far.

 

Thanks once again.

How do I post a picture of my "fleet"?

[stretch]

Most people use 1:1 wheel weights and others have used adhesive window lead.

[hms]

How does this forum allow pictures to be posted please?

I have tried phgotobucket but it says not allowed??

[hms]

 

sussed it!!  My fleet so far.

[Tamiyacowboy]

looking good buddy 

 

 

how are you going with the scout

[Theodore Bagwell]

Cut lugs off rear diff also same place at front (save lugs) Drill small hole into diff,inject grease into diff using syringe (no needle) Using hot knife or  soldering iron to melt one of the lugs over/into the hole.

[hms]

Wheel weights arrived yesterday. I put 120g on each front wheel and 60g on each rear, I then re-holed the body shell and lowered it an inch. There's room to spare for another lower set of holes if need be. I found taking the wheels apart to be bloody tiresome! I attempted to "star cut" the foams as well which quickly turned into scissor cuts in a clockface pattern. I've not yet had chance to give it a good run & test yet, mainly climbing over mountains of cushions and kids toys. It still has a tendency to roll over though so I think somehow lowering the battery is my next priority. Like I have said, I'm loath to make the jump to LiPo just yet so will stick with NiMh. Any ideas on how to lower the battery in that situation would be greatly appreciated.

I'm also debating on the shock mod with fuel pipe thing. Is it really essential? I'd like to know the ins and outs of the build completely eventually but a bit hesitant at the moment of stripping the diff etc in case I bugger it up. The drilling a hole and injecting grease idea seems good -I'd prefer to become confident in doing it "properly" though. When I eventually get round to stripping it I will take phots and post a step by step guide, as I cant find one anywhere online and I could well do with one, hopefully will help someone else at some time.

[hms]

TamiyaCowboy - what buggies have you got? My "fleet" is two Frogs which I built, A TB-02B Dual ridge which was my intro to building a 4x4 and a vintage Super Sabre I bought on Ebay - which is in such mint condition I'm not gonna run it....yet! Was kept in a glass cabinet since it was built apparently.

[stretch]

Wheel weights arrived yesterday. I put 120g on each front wheel and 60g on each rear, I then re-holed the body shell and lowered it an inch. There's room to spare for another lower set of holes if need be. I found taking the wheels apart to be bloody tiresome! I attempted to "star cut" the foams as well which quickly turned into scissor cuts in a clockface pattern. I've not yet had chance to give it a good run & test yet, mainly climbing over mountains of cushions and kids toys. It still has a tendency to roll over though so I think somehow lowering the battery is my next priority. Like I have said, I'm loath to make the jump to LiPo just yet so will stick with NiMh. Any ideas on how to lower the battery in that situation would be greatly appreciated.

I'm also debating on the shock mod with fuel pipe thing. Is it really essential? I'd like to know the ins and outs of the build completely eventually but a bit hesitant at the moment of stripping the diff etc in case I bugger it up. The drilling a hole and injecting grease idea seems good -I'd prefer to become confident in doing it "properly" though. When I eventually get round to stripping it I will take phots and post a step by step guide, as I cant find one anywhere online and I could well do with one, hopefully will help someone else at some time.

 

fuel tube mod helps with torque twist I did a post on here about it.

Edited July 23, 2015 by stretch

[hms]

My rear axel has separated, the cross pin has come away from its housing by the connected with the grub screw. How do I fix this without bending the plastic back?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[phil633]

I swopped the motor plate complete with motor and transmission around 180 degrees to help with torque flex seems to be an improvement. Star cut foams and hot bodies rovers white dot.