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I have a Tamiya Dual Ridge, fully ball-raced and running a GT tuned motor. All the rest is stock. I have seen on youtube somebody getting 53mph out of one of these. There is no detail into what gearing upgrades were used. Can anybody advise me on hopups needed ,motors/esc/gear upgrades that would work on this chassis for a higher speed? I'm currently running NiMh batteries and don't yet want to switch to LiPo. Has anyone here any experience of running a TT02b in a high speed configuration? Thanks for any advice.

I've had my Maverick just over 2 months now, I'm very pleased with it but have suffered a few mishaps. The main one was the rear section of the driveshaft overtorquing and the crosspin connection working loose. I bent the plastic outwards but the same thing happened. I have since put a small tie-wrap around the plastic hub to prevent this happening - it seems to be working so far. Caveat: The main obstacles my Scout deals with is mountains of cushions and kiddies toys that have been left out. I have yet to run it in "proper" rock-crawling terrain.

Thankyou all for the advice everyone! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is there a hop-up driveshaft I could buy that is not susceptible to this? Sorry for the bone questions. Thanks. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Fixed it using brute force and ignorance. Have a feeling it'll be more prone to popping out now though. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks, I was worried doing that would snap the plastic. Will give it a go. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I can't even figure why it popped. Was driving on short grass with just a small brick by our tent (we are on a camping holiday) as an obstacle. There's a slight scratch on the outer of the housing but no stress marks or cracks. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I've managed to pop the rear driveshaft from the yoke. Could somebody please advise how to get it back together? I can't find any guide online and the only way I can see to sort it is to bend the plastic so the cross pin fits back in the housing. Thanks for any help... My little lad is gutted. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

My rear axel has separated, the cross pin has come away from its housing by the connected with the grub screw. How do I fix this without bending the plastic back? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

TamiyaCowboy - what buggies have you got? My "fleet" is two Frogs which I built, A TB-02B Dual ridge which was my intro to building a 4x4 and a vintage Super Sabre I bought on Ebay - which is in such mint condition I'm not gonna run it....yet! Was kept in a glass cabinet since it was built apparently.

Wheel weights arrived yesterday. I put 120g on each front wheel and 60g on each rear, I then re-holed the body shell and lowered it an inch. There's room to spare for another lower set of holes if need be. I found taking the wheels apart to be bloody tiresome! I attempted to "star cut" the foams as well which quickly turned into scissor cuts in a clockface pattern. I've not yet had chance to give it a good run & test yet, mainly climbing over mountains of cushions and kids toys. It still has a tendency to roll over though so I think somehow lowering the battery is my next priority. Like I have said, I'm loath to make the jump to LiPo just yet so will stick with NiMh. Any ideas on how to lower the battery in that situation would be greatly appreciated. I'm also debating on the shock mod with fuel pipe thing. Is it really essential? I'd like to know the ins and outs of the build completely eventually but a bit hesitant at the moment of stripping the diff etc in case I bugger it up. The drilling a hole and injecting grease idea seems good -I'd prefer to become confident in doing it "properly" though. When I eventually get round to stripping it I will take phots and post a step by step guide, as I cant find one anywhere online and I could well do with one, hopefully will help someone else at some time.

sussed it!! My fleet so far.

How does this forum allow pictures to be posted please? I have tried phgotobucket but it says not allowed??

Thankyou for taking the time to reply! The small roll of lead I thought I had in my garage (I have since been reminded) I binned 6 months ago as "I'll never need it". I've decided on weighting my wheels and lowering the C of G is definately a priority. During the very little time I've been able to experiment so far, one thing has highlighted itself..this thing likes to roll over! I've decided I'm going to buy some wide gauge solder wire and use that to weight the wheels, would that be OK? I will lower the body shell slightly also but, my main concern is the battery. I do not want to go down the LiPo route. Not at this stage. I've only started building RC buggies since January and I'm on a big learning curve. Is there a method to lower the stock NiMh battery?? I'm a beginner at this sort of thing and without experience, I have relied on Tamiya schematics to guide me in this hobbie so far. Thanks once again. How do I post a picture of my "fleet"?

Finally got the bugger!! One of the rear suspension trailing arms was hanging loose when I got it so had to unsrew the socket then screw that on etc..and back in. Very happy so far. A mate from work has some spare lead so that's the tyre mod sorted. I notice there are different positions for the suspension arms. What is the best config to choose? How do I go about lowering or re-positioning the battery from the stock position for optimal C of G? I dont have the balls to strip down the gears to grease them yet, tonight will be spent riding over kids toys and cushions in the living room!! Thanks for any advice