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Decided to get a sim racing rig.


PurcyP

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Now going to build up a oculas thrift. 

 

cheap VR headset from amazon

one samsung - sony - htc- apple smartphone 

 

some software, this acts as a server and streamer. "Trinus Gyre "

what happens is your phone is hooked up in tehering mode to the pc via the wifi connection or usb cable.

the software then splits your screen into two and streams this direct to your phone.

meanwhile your phones gyro and sensors are feeding back data points telling the computer where it is in the world. 

 

slide your phone into the holder headset, enable the software on phone and pc ( pc app and phone app ) 

select your game from your dropdown menu in the user interface, start the server up and the connection is made.

your phone now acts and behaves like a oculas rift. 

 

now some notes, wifi is not as good a link. so you will have some latency from that constant to and fro network encryption.

run a usb cable your skipping a lot of latencey issues that spring from newtwork and wifi. so yeah in this case wired is better. 

 

Phone choice, the better the phone the better the vr will be, so your really wanting something like an iphone5-6  -  htc one m8 - galaxy S4-S5-S6 

Htc butterfly 2 and so on and running atleast droid 5.

 

Just waiting on a decent phone to come up for sale and a delivery from amazon of the headset stuff

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Sweet Chris , i have that same wheel.   ( little tip , hold down select - R1 - R3  together and it shifts the wheel into 900 degree mode ) 

 

also if you grab a foam golf ball and/or a rubber squash ball. pop it into the hole behind the brake pedal it will make it less OMG screech lockup

gives you a more progressive feel ;) , or unless you have a set of club sports pedals it does the trick awesome. 

 

 

lol Danny , now i have the wheel and pedals my driving style has become somewhat poor lol. 

dont get me wrong i am an awesome driver, but that wheel and pedal set just turn me into a redneck stig truck driver lol. 

Assetto corsa is on my wanted list as is project cars. 

 

 

But first its to get the server software and a phone tethered and running on ETS2. once i know it will work on truck sim

then i will import my brain stuff to the forum and then assetto and Pcars

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Sweet Chris , i have that same wheel.   ( little tip , hold down select - R1 - R3  together and it shifts the wheel into 900 degree mode ) 

 

also if you grab a foam golf ball and/or a rubber squash ball. pop it into the hole behind the brake pedal it will make it less OMG screech lockup

gives you a more progressive feel ;) , or unless you have a set of club sports pedals it does the trick awesome. 

 

 

lol Danny , now i have the wheel and pedals my driving style has become somewhat poor lol. 

dont get me wrong i am an awesome driver, but that wheel and pedal set just turn me into a redneck stig truck driver lol. 

Assetto corsa is on my wanted list as is project cars. 

 

 

But first its to get the server software and a phone tethered and running on ETS2. once i know it will work on truck sim

then i will import my brain stuff to the forum and then assetto and Pcars

Thanks for those couple of little tips......Will try them................ :thumbsup:

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Thanks for those couple of little tips......Will try them................ :thumbsup:

 

your welcome buddy. 

 

the pedals are nice but they do lack that kinda progressive feel, the sponge ball-squashball gives you that feel back.

no more stabbing the pedal. ( you can also do same to the throttle to stiffen it if needed ) 

 

the 900 degree, when you first plug in usb to power it up let it calibrate.

you will notice the left green lights on. its in 200 mode.

now hold select r1 -r3 and you will hear a click and the right hand and left hand led lights both stay on. 900 degree mode. 

 

if you unplug-turn off the wheel and plug back in it will calibrate for the 900 degree first , then it will lock to 200 degree and calibrate.

it does this sometimes because some games do not auto detect 900 degree, so you have to enable it again using the slect-r1-r3 combo ( it does not calibrate a second time if you switch between 200-900 )

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Well that was weird

 

i took the g27 apart so i could see how it works...bit simple but oh well. 

 

i was putting it back together and it wasnt calibrating properly going full left n right and then stays full left..

 

usually its due to a broken wheel recorder or something or rather, however mine was fine, 

 

turns out you need to make sure all the gears are in a very particular place...stupid thing lol :/

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Well that was weird

 

i took the g27 apart so i could see how it works...bit simple but oh well. 

 

i was putting it back together and it wasnt calibrating properly going full left n right and then stays full left..

 

usually its due to a broken wheel recorder or something or rather, however mine was fine, 

 

turns out you need to make sure all the gears are in a very particular place...stupid thing lol :/

 

 

lol yeah gears have to be set to correct timing points, to mach with the ORE / hall sensor. 

 

inside is a little wheel with lots of slots in, the finer the slots the finer the resolution ( think a very old mouse wheel with ball in, the part you have is that center wheel and sensors)

when light shines through the slot it activates a photon cell, sending an electric current through the circuit aka the on part.

when the light is shaded as the disc rotates a second notch the pulse of power is shut off aka the off part of the circuit.

 

the disc is a plastic black thing its true name is an Optical rotary encoder, and they can be upgraded to metal parts ( the G27 is a beast of a wheel and expensive to pull about so be warned ) 

 

difference between a ORE and a hall device. 

 

ore uses light photons to produce a slight current to signal an event.

Hall uses magnetic effects , most automotives measure rotation using a hall sensor and a magnetic part.

as the magnet passes the sensor, the sensor is trigger to switch on, magnet swings past the sensor triggers off.

 

 

 

Update to my venture into sim driving. 

 

have now aqquired an iphone  , been assured its not stolen etc etc, but the screen is mashed in bad.

so i do need to replace it. that should give me a half decent screen for viewing as a second monitor.

 

Hit 1 million pound GBP in ETS2 (truck sim) , own 2 large garages and have 7 drivers employed.

i also have a fleet of trucks , my truck is a globetrotter XL 750bhp , i also have another 5 volvo FH16 classis

and 2 scania R ( fleet wise inc my truck around 1.8 million GBP worth ) 

 

just need to get my headgear sorted, its a pain in the rear trying to manhandle a mouse to check mirrors when your running 22t - 40t at 70mph down the autobahn 

 

 

Maybe worth you guys checking out if you can beam telemetry data ( some games like ets2 have plug ins)

what this means is you can use your IOS-Droid -tablet as a dashboard.

your dash info is projected to your device giving you speed-rpm-shift status etc etc freeing it from the squint on the screen.

 

;)

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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  • 3 weeks later...

Update : im fully up and running. 

 

iphone fixed and talking with pc via gagagu streamer server app and pc software.

have the phone receiving a full 1900x1080 screen res split into two ( left eye - right eye )

 

also have euro truck sim 2 running on the pc and im able to mouse swing my head around in the headset

all i need to do is grab a sensor server and im running headtracking to. went from a google cardboard to a Andoer " ColorCross " headmount display aka HMD

and it cost all in with delivery 14 quid. 

 

not only games i can watch videos - music vids - trailers and likes as the software converts it to side by side viewing for you

only downfall is all games and likes must be played in windowed mode but its not bad at all i can say.

 

check out the Oculas thrift thread on the IOS and pc software. 

 

for android you need Trinus VR (also trinus gyre) stremaer server and the trinus VR app installed on your pc and android device.

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