danny boy
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Everything posted by danny boy
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As suggested, it's a good idea to go and have a chat with some of the local racers to see what they run. You'll probably find the two most common brands are Schumacher and Associated. Schumacher recently released the LD3, whish is proving itself to be a very competitive vehicle, but has been prone to breakages. Associated has also just announced the release of their new car, the Associated B7. Because of this, there are some bargain used Associated B6's floating around, most prefer the B6.3 version. I race one of these, and at them moment see no need to upgrade to the B7. They are super strong cars, which is important when new to racing, but also highly competitive. You'll need to talk to the club organisers to figure out what memberships you'll need. Presumably you'll need a club membership and a BRCA licence, however most clubs will let new drivers race without these for a meeting or two. Hope this helps Many thanks Dan
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Has anyone got any experience with L&L models? I've ordered two shells off them but only one arrived. I've sent them two emails since Wednesday last week, but have not received any response. I'd be happy with a refund for the shell I didn't receive but I can't seem to get anywhere with them
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So I opened up a PayPal dispute and they accepted the refund terms pretty much immediately. I gave them more than enough time to respond beforehand but it seems they actively chose to ignore the problem instead of just explaining what happened. I still don't even know what happened to the second shell, presumably they mis-read the order and only sent one, but they still haven't contacted me directly so that's just speculation. They read the Facebook message I sent and still didn't reply. All in all I don't know what to think. The stuff I did receive was fine, but being ignored and hoping they could get away with it seems super shady.
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What is silicone diff lube? Does it go by another name? The stuff that goes into a ball diff. I'm asking because I need to rebuild a few diffs but you can only buy it in these tiny 10ml pots that cost £4 each.
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Its probably same silicone grease you can buy in tubes and Amazon amongst others sells it
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To be fair you dont need much for a ball diff so that would probably do it. I use Associated stuff
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i hope I never get this bitter about rc cars 😂. The poor guy seems utterly bonkers
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But you're not altering the aerodynamics, that's the point. You're weighing the car down. Put this way: if your front tyre bumps over a tiny rock, just 1 or 2 mm, you're having the exact same problem as if there was no weight at all in the front. Same with a shock rebound lifting the shell slightly. Even a gust from the side would be enough to get enough air under the car to lift it at speed. Because you're not counteracting lift.
A front splitter creates a zone of low air pressure under the front - downforce. You're not changing at all how the air goes over and under the car, you just add more weight for it to lift. Considering it can lift multiple kg, you'll be hard pressed to figure that one out. Keep in mind that the car at higher speeds also squats in the rear, so at best, you get an RC level with the ground (unless you want to run solid shocks, which is even worse).
In actuality, speed runners all run a splitter, it's not a mod the same way a rear wing on an F1 car isn't a mod. Parachuting is countered by shells that route air around the wheel arches (either by design of the front, or canards and other aerodynamic tools) or simply by not having wheel arches in the first place, or at the very least having spats on the rear - and then taping around the entire shell to prevent it catching air there. Some also run diffusors at the back. But the main thing is to prevent air from getting under the shell. That's it. Once your shell catches air, the ship is sailed. You can literally add 4lbs of lead to your front, if the shell catches air at 50mph, you'll achieve lift off. The only way to prevent that is to prevent air from catching, and the only way to do that is to route it away from the wheel arches - not by adding weight. The general aerodynamic lift that comes from accelerating air over the body shell (much like an airplane wing) is negligible. It's not enough to lift the rig.
But, as i said: each to their own, if that's the route you'd like to take, then that's cool.
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The RC hobby, at times, feels way too complicated and bizzare. The last time I took any of mine out, it was the Tekno EB48 on 6S which I handed over to a 10 year old (SRS) it came back in one piece.
So much for herp derp 6S on yer buggy iz 2 much, need WLtoys 69 4 muh kid, infraction rivalzzz for 100 dolla dolla billz, u gon go 2 jail if u hurt my feelingz and say mean things bout my RC cars, gently ✊ yerself.
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Wired up the Losi Micro-B ready for some indoor racing. I love micros, and I love neat wiring, but the two are not mutually exclusive, and I often find it impossible to tidily wire up such a small car. I really wanted this to be a close replica of my 1/10 car, so had to get a little creative. The first thing I did was create a false floor for the ESC and receiver to sit on. This let me run the wires underneath where they cannot be seen. This was made with a piece of 1.5mm fibreglass sheet cut to shape and painted black. You can see it here underneath the ESC and receiver here. I drilled holes for each wire on the ESC to thread them through. I needed to re-solder all the wires to make this possible but it was worth it. The ESC is a Hobbywing XR10 stock spec, it looks exactly like the full size ESC, but it's much smaller, perfect for a micro car. The motor is a Carisma sensored unit, I went for this motor because it's the only sensored motor I can find on this scale, and as my 1/10 car uses sensored motors, this had to as well. I also had to relocate the servo further forward. This was an easy job that just need two holes drilled in the chassis. Next up was the battery. My 1/10 car uses shorty packs with built in connectors. But unfortunately you cannot get these in 1/16 scale, so I had to make my own. Here is a comparison with one of my 1/10 battery packs. I bought a small 2-cell lipo and reconfigured it to fit in the new casing. The casing is just made from styrene plastic I cut to shape and glued together. I 3D printed a mount for the bullet connectors and glued it inside the casing. After that I just drilled two holes, pushed the connectors through, and soldered them up. The balance leads are hidden underneath. And there she is. Probably the best wiring job I've done on a car of this scale. It's not perfect, but it sure is better than it was.
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It's hard to believe I started this thread over 5 years ago. So I thought I'd give a quick update on what the rally car is up to these days. The car was my regular rally basher for about 3 years, which it took surprisingly well. But In recent times, the local track has introduced a rally cross class. The series runs on the same off-road track as the 1/10 buggies, so it needs to be tough. It's safe to say the car has been seen some major abuse out on track, it's not easy to run a touring car around an off road course. The rules dictate that you can only run brushed Tamiya motors. So out went the brushless setup and in came the Torque tuned motor. Still surprisingly fast even with this setup. The rally cars can pretty much match pace with the unlimited 2wd buggies. The car needed to go on a bit of a diet. Everything not structural was stripped off. And everything that could be lightened was (note the fibreglass parts) A major weight saving was made by removing the gear cover, replaced by this lightweight part that I 3D printed. (Note that some weight has gone back in behind the battery, this is to help offset the weight of the motor on the other side). Another issue was the sloppiness of the parts. All Tamiya's have plenty of slop in them, but the three years of bashing meant this on was particularly bad. I addressed this by adding a second camber link at the front. This triangulated the suspension and majorly reduced the floppiness. As you can see, the car does take some big hits out there on track. Most of the rear of the shell has been removed to stop it tucking in over the wheels. It's bruised and beaten but still going. So there we are. The car is still going strong, and sees weekly use. The local track is slippery, and really favours the front motor cars (the XV-01 goes particularly well there) but this is still competitive. On good nights it can still fight at the top, I even managed to win an A-Final with it!
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Selling my 1/18 Otto Models 1/18 Lancia Delta S4 Gr.B. A truly stunning model car, even has a spare wheel tucked away under the bonnet. I have one that is open (pictured), and one that is still brand new in box and never been opened. Buyers choice which one they want. Limited production run of 2000 pieces. I'm asking £120 posted. PayPal accepted Many thanks Dan
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A little bit of battery reclamation. Disposable vape pens actually contain good quality fully rechargeable lithium batteries. But because of the vapes disposable nature they get used once then get chucked in the bin. I do not vape, but I see these things littered everywhere when walking the dogs. I’ve started picking them up and getting the batteries out. They’re good for small LED’s and other low power accessories, so I use them for headlights on my touring cars
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Is there a decent 4wd 1/18 rc car anymore? The associated rc18 was always fun but long discontinued. I have Losi Mini-b but but looking for something 4wd. LC racing stuff looks good but is slightly too large at 1/16 scale. There is the maverick Ion but I always think they look very plasticky
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This is the smaller cousin of the HBX 1/16th cars and the FTX tracer. I have the 1/16th one and two of the old 1/18 model. They are very durable having been driven by small children most of their life but the handling is so so. I don't know where to buy one in the uk though.
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i really cannot think of any and my mini b converted to brushless handles better than any cheaper 4wd ones i have tried like the atom and ion that end up having diff probs and over heating motors out the box.
the mini b is actually classed as 1/16th scale btw, its the mini t thats 1/18, mini b chassis is longer 🙂
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If you end up breaking for whatever reason. May I please call dibs on the CVA's.
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Does anyone know the name of the three pin socket on this receiver? https://www.rcmodelz.co.uk/flysky-nb4-gmr-micro-receiver.html
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What's everyone's experience with the ATModels shop?
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Pulled the whole thing apart cleaned, greased and lubricated the gears, fitted a brand new set of sealed bearing, put some carbon fibre on it, replaced the standard dog bones with a set of CVA's, and fitted a full set of hex head screws to replace the standard crosshead ones. Busy day, but the car looks so much better for and will drive like a proper race buggy now. Just need to get a nice set of shocks and it's ready for the local clubs vintage class. I bought this off eBay not long ago. I believe I bought it from @Fly In My Soup, but not 100% sure?
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This (although it actually arrived 2 days ago). It's a bit scruffy, but will be perfect for my needs. I've already started stripping it down and cleaning. It will be rebuilt with a lot of RC10B3 parts and upgrades. I'm planning on running this in the vintage category at the local buggy club so will have to be put to a fairly old school standard. The fantastic thing about the Thunder tiger Phoenix was that it's an exact re-release of the original RC10B3, but the mouldings were re-tooled with metric hardware instead of the original imperial. In every other way it is the same car and will use the same parts.
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Hello, I'm after a an associated B4 or B44 rear CVA axle, part number 9755 as found here. Only one required but will happily buy both if you have two of them. Alternatively the full set of CVA's (bone and axle) will also be fine. Thanks Dan
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Hi Sean, Sorry I should have stated, it doesn't have to be a complete car as I still have a lot of spares. Just needs to have a fair amount of it's parts, and no electronics required. Of course if somebody does have a complete car that was ready to go, I would be willing pay much more!
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Looking for a Thunder Tiger phoenix buggy if anyone has one lying about? It was my first race buggy but got lost somewhere down the line. Not sure what they're worth, a pair of them in a job lot recently went on ebay for £85. So maybe somewhere round the £50 mark for a single one, but open to negotiation.
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A box to transport my car. It turns out I may have grossly miscalculated my size requirements
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Are the metric screws for our RC cars Fine pitch or Coarse pitch?
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To be petty or not? Brand new drill ordered from Amazon won't release the drill bit (the pin that holds the chuck has sheared off). I've arranged a return, but obviously the brand new drill bit I put in will be going with it. Should I be cheeky and ask for a replacement bit as well?
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Where does everyone buy their LiPo's these days? I always used Hobbyking but it seems they have moved all battery sales to the international warehouse now.
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@danny boy the battery I bought was a Lipo TX pack and was £15 odd for the battery. I checked my order and it actually came from the "EU Warehouse" with postage being £3.72.
I had two options with the postage from there with one being £3.72 (not tracked) and the other £35 odd! (tracked/insured). I risked the cheaper option and it was fine, no import charges.
Just checked ~ The same battery is now only available from the "International Warehouse/Honk Kong" and it offers me two delivery options. Fedex @£25.62 and UPS @£27.11.
Ridiculous so looks like I won't be buying batteries from them again.
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Just been poking around the HobbyKing Facebook page. It looks like they want to ship to the UK from the EU warehouse, but they cannot acquire the correct paperwork to do so due to Brexit (they say they can't get an EORI number. Full disclosure, I have no idea what that is). Hopefully this is something they can sort out and EU warehouse order may become possible again. 🤞
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Great info @danny boy . Agree it would be great if they could get it sorted as I've always been happy with the service from Hobbyking plus I love Turnigy batteries which they do.
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Has anyone bought from Redfin Models before? Website looks ok to me but never used them.
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I am now completely confused by Nosram ESC's. I bought a Nosram HD TC, the online description says it has "an all new user manual concept". Which as far as I can tell so far, means that they didn't bother to make one. Can't find a physical version or digital version. Completely baffled.
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lorrys right LRP do a version try the manual at bottom of page danny https://www.lrp.cc/en/flowx/
@turok its a cool little 2s stock racing esc has some really cool features by the looks too 👍
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Delivery driver couldn't find my address apparently. I'm not sure what to do now? I've not been given instructions by DPD. They just say it can't be delivered. Do I have to go back to the Vendor now or do I contact DPD?
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Built myself a new light panel for photography purposes. My old panel contained 15 LED's, this one contains 253, so quite the upgrade! Test shots went very well. I used some high CRI strips so colour reproduction should be close to actual daylight
