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soldering advice needed


everclear1984

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My new motor arrived (picture attached) and I was wondering what the best way to solder on the wires would be. I don't have a flat tip on my iron, just a rounded one. I'm guessing I should just coat the ends of the wires in solder, hold it to where they will mount then heat it with the tip of the iron until the solder melts. Would that work? I'm completely new to this so I'd be grateful for any advice.

Chris.

ori28152_zps3rdz5vxj.jpg

Edited by everclear1984
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I had probs doing my boys so I got bloke in work to do for me....jus make sure there's no wires hung out touching the nx door contact. .this is what was happening when I tried..thought the motor was dodgy. .lol!!

Edited by evssv
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Wire in above the can side then solder the tabs, not massively hard, just need to rough up the tabs a little so you get a clean surface.

I'll give it a go. I might even post up the results depending on how much of a mess I make of it, lol

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 Use a good flux? the trick is to tin all your joints first including the wire,I find a pointed tip best for motor soldering mind you it depends on the size and make sure your iron is up to the job....

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Well the model shop is closed for the bank holiday so I re-soldered it and gave it go. I know it's not ideal but seems to be working fine.... for now. Looking into a new soldering iron future needs.

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My 30W won't cut it trying to solder deans connectors. Apparently I've killed the 4th tip for my gas iron, and its harder to find the tips now I'm out of uni (used the educational Farnell site for cheap everything!)

So I think I'm in the market for a cheap new soldering iron.

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LOL 

 

I solder with a 30w iron only 

i soldered motors and 3s lipos with deans - and xt60's , the better of the two are xt60 for soldering with a 30w.

 

HOT it must be hot, once its touch the metal it needs to reheat so atleast 3-4mins 

quick, you must work quick, NO THINKING JUST DOING. you pick up the iron and you do not hesitate 

you place it to work feed solder let it flow and remove heat. hesitate and the irons to cold ist not enough to keep it hot enough.

 

FLUX and/or decent SOLDER , i always say this. a cheapy solder is just that its super cheap and not very good.

if you spend a tad extra for a good solder its worth its weight in work time. its not gonna blacken up, boil off, become a cold joint.

its gonna flow nice, tin sweet and have that sparkle when heat is removed not dull but slighly shiney ( good sign of good solder a shiney joint)

and to get a good joint its best to have some flux, be it a powder or a sticky greasey like wax or a gel like substance. dip your tip in when its hot

ist gonna sizzle and clean then tin the tip and dip the solder into the flux. or you can use an old paintbrush to brush flux onto tabs and likes.

wires we can just dip em in and be done. 

 

more you use a tool the more you master it, just like playing a piano practice pays off. raining day bust out the solder and some old wires,

pcb and have a play , solder very fine single strands to fine pins on a old chip or the likes. learn control of the tool and not to hestitate or pause.

 

best solder practice is a four into one leash, but the idea is to sandwich the single lead out into the middle of the four out leads. 

Edited by Tamiyacowboy
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