Syncro Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 I dare say it's pretty much common knowledge that the biggest problem with the stock SR's performance is torque twist. Well, I think I've found a cheap cure. Grab the REAR sway bar kit for the Twin Hammers. Fit them to the lower arms on the Slick rock. They need to be secured to the skid plate too. I'd recommend removing the skid plate to drill the holes as there's a rib that runs on top of it so you need to make sure the holes are in the right place. I fitted the soft bar to the front, medium to the rear. Torque twist gone! There is no noticeable loss of wheel travel either so as far as I can tell there are no downsides to doing this. Huge improvement to performance even on the stock tyres with no added weight. Largely, I'd say, due to the fact that all four tyres are in contact with the ground all of the time. All I need to do now is try and find a neater way to fix the sway bars to the lower arms. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz! Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Cracking tip there mate, like it. How about heat shrink over the bars and links? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thesnake505 Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 as gaz says, scrap the cable ties get some lock wire or the spring out of a pen etc... wrap that around as tight as it will go then heat shrink the link abd wire etc.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Usefull tip with the stock super soft shocks. I fitted better shocks which seemed to cure the problem. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaZero Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Usefull tip with the stock super soft shocks. I fitted better shocks which seemed to cure the problem. John What shocks did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johninderby Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Just some stock length Yeah Racing adjustable shocks. They're available under several brand names but there are a few few sellers on ebay. Try Blacksmithproducts. More details and photos in my thread. http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/193464-vaterra-slickrock-with-mods/?hl=slickrock John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syncro Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 Cracking tip there mate, like it. How about heat shrink over the bars and links? I did think about heatshrink but wasn't sure how durable it'd be when scraping against rocks etc. Plus I'd got a big bag of small cable ties close to hand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 (edited) try this : usually its because the upper links and not high enough on the top of the diff pumpkin. if you can raise them above the diff pumkin about 10-14mm. then raise the bars links to the chassis up a little higher. (5mm at most ) this is a common problem on the twin hammers and you can see the pumpkin of the axle tipping forwards so it hooks up underside on things. moving the upper links above the pumkin closer and higher solved the torque roll on the TH. now its highly possible this will also work with the slick rock other way is using the kit parts you got and making up a cantileaver system for anti torque roll bars Edited April 18, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlphaZero Posted April 19, 2015 Share Posted April 19, 2015 I'm not sure that will work as the slickrock is 3 link not 4 link, good idea though and like you say it works well on the hammers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tamiyacowboy Posted April 19, 2015 Share Posted April 19, 2015 (edited) the slickrock is really a four bar link fix but the two uppers join into a single mount lug. normally a aftermarket part would be made to. split the two uppers to singles not a triangle brace. its possible to make a plate with a couple lugs upright either side. then you mount your new single arm units to the plate lugs , ( dual servo axles ) you could then fashion into design lugs that allow the rear to be locked out via rods, or a servo to be seated to give 4x4x4 steering. when i built the mini giant conversion i came across the same thing , a triangle top brace trying to be a 3 point and four point link. some modding and i made a true 4 link , solved most of the torque twisting . The twin hammer has an aftermarket part (third party) alloy plate that allows for linking to be moved a few mm here and there. coupled with the swaybar kit it semi solves the torque twist. lots of other crawler fans will adjust/move and mod the upper links. Here on MSUK i done a walkthrough of my mini giant little truck conversion, some of the images have died and got to the interweb gods but you can see the original truck (a toy kiddies truck) , and how i went about modding it to a larger crawler (1/24th scale to something like 1/16 - 1/14th) that to had the triange upper link the same as the slickrock Edited April 19, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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