jari Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 This looks Great Jari I managed 57mph with a 25T pinion and gearbox with 5S still need to apply 6s power. Did you go with a manual break then? I suffer with Endo's too no manual brake. The endo is on the engine braking alone. My calculations on theoretical max given current gearing and wheels are: 4S 38 mph 5S 47 mph 6S 56 mph don't know that I am happy with the peak current draw though. Need to run a full pack or two through it to see what the temperatures are like first. Might have to swap motor. 15T and 2000kv gives same theoretical speeds as 20T and a 1480kv. the 2000kv 4082 is supposedly max amps of 130 and that is what i am seeing 1480kv or 1300kv 4092 motors are supposedly 115 and 110A respectively. Geared up that would give the speed and be kinder on battery setup. Anyone understand the difference between the different winds? i.e. "D" versus "Y" winds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 I used to, but forget now. I think Y winds are more efficient, but don't quote me. The 1480kv is a D and isn't causing any concerns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jari Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 Just taken this out to the quarry first proper stretch of its legs. on 4, 5 and 6S 6S is insane. Video downloading now... no chance to jump it though - the bottom of the pit is too wet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Looking forward to that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jari Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 Looking forward to that! just measured amps. and then just broke it. 130A and 2500 watts running 5S. and managed to break a rear wheel hub - both pillow balls pulled out after a cart wheel at speed. yes managed to break it on flat ground rather than quarry. ok it was a full speed cartwheel. think found a weak spot though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Bet you didn't film that!? Shame it's broke, but that's all part of getting a car sorted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jari Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 Bet you didn't film that!? Shame it's broke, but that's all part of getting a car sorted! I know that the knuckles are a weak point. My nitro ones have pulled the pillow balls out many a time. not sure what to do about it if anything. That was the fourth pack today and a pretty major cart wheel. options are to go RPM... or to try and find another pillow ball knuckle that will fit, and possibly allow better bearings and 8mm axle. there is a mod for an ST-1 knuckle that allows 8mm stub axles. seems a lot of work though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Nobody make ally knuckles? Even Integy? I think RPM will just be worse for "pulling through". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jari Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 (edited) too much video. will need editing. loaded some raw footage though. Edited April 4, 2015 by jari Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jari Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 Nobody make ally knuckles? Even Integy? I think RPM will just be worse for "pulling through". gpm make ali knuckles. restricts you to 12 outer, 6 inner diameter bearings and hence 6mm stub axles. RPM knuckles can be bored out to take a 16x8 bearing to allow 8mm axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jari Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 (edited) and another one. stuggling to keep the front down. I'm trying to drive up the hill at pace, not just wheelie everywhere. all the time struggling to get the right throttle. pull trigger too happily and its on the wheelie bar or roof. Edited April 4, 2015 by jari Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
froggy8 Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 great vids Jari! my savage the same, i have to really gently pull on the throttle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean-vrs Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Looks great that mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jari Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 and my first slow mo. well there are plenty of them but they need editing. this is about the only short watchable slow mo one. 4 cell is ok. 5 and 6 cell is a struggle to keep the front down. that is with the soft stock blue springs as well. so there is plenty of "give" in the rear suspension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 gpm make ali knuckles. restricts you to 12 outer, 6 inner diameter bearings and hence 6mm stub axles. RPM knuckles can be bored out to take a 16x8 bearing to allow 8mm axles. My Maxx trucks have struggled with small bearings for years, they do wear faster! However, if they're located at the outer parts of the drivetrain, they're easy to replace and don't cause problems when they do fail. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jari Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 (edited) My Maxx trucks have struggled with small bearings for years, they do wear faster! However, if they're located at the outer parts of the drivetrain, they're easy to replace and don't cause problems when they do fail. Just a thought. true. and the problem I have had with them is not the bearings. it is the pillow balls pulling out of the knuckle. or the track rod ends popping off the thing-a-ma-jig. track rod ends popping off can be sorted with a large washer. pillow balls pulling out? not sure. unless there is some way of bracing the knuclkes themselves.. I might just have to carry spares. and resign myself to that being the part of the truck that breaks. they are Edited April 4, 2015 by jari Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 I'd try the ally knuckles, sticking with the smaller bearings. You might find that combo is actually reliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jari Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 I'd try the ally knuckles, sticking with the smaller bearings. You might find that combo is actually reliable. I know... but why do i want to buy something when i can try and mod?! ...# # something like hyper pbs, mugen etc could work. trouble is they need a shorter upper arm to fit. i wonder if just making an upper arm using 10mm nylon rod would work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Ah, but I love buying bits! Especially when they work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jari Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 go on then. one more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Can you post some close ups of the suspension arms? From underneath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popsey Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 Hi Jari, Fascinating write up! I'm a complete newbie and am wanting to convert my S50 into brushless also. I'm not a big use of it and just want it for the odd run at the weekend. As a complete newbie, I have no clue as to where to start. Could you be kind enough to provide an idiot proof write up for me? Or just point out the obvious mistakes in my assumptions as listed below? 1) I will be keeping the stock truck, gearbox, diffs, wheels, tyres and ACE tx/rx 2) I will need 1480kv motor, motor mount, 4s lipo, 15T Hobbyking 150A ESC and Savox 1231 servo. Can you point me in the right direction as to where to buy this shopping list? 3) I will need to FOC the gearbox and lock into 2nd gear. 4) I'm confused as to 'the soldering of the ESC' - Why / where would I need to solder this? Any help / advise would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jari Posted August 8, 2015 Author Share Posted August 8, 2015 (edited) Hi Jari, Fascinating write up! I'm a complete newbie and am wanting to convert my S50 into brushless also. I'm not a big use of it and just want it for the odd run at the weekend. As a complete newbie, I have no clue as to where to start. Could you be kind enough to provide an idiot proof write up for me? Or just point out the obvious mistakes in my assumptions as listed below? 1) I will be keeping the stock truck, gearbox, diffs, wheels, tyres and ACE tx/rx 2) I will need 1480kv motor, motor mount, 4s lipo, 15T Hobbyking 150A ESC and Savox 1231 servo. Can you point me in the right direction as to where to buy this shopping list? 3) I will need to FOC the gearbox and lock into 2nd gear. 4) I'm confused as to 'the soldering of the ESC' - Why / where would I need to solder this? Any help / advise would be greatly appreciated. harsh but... I am not going to do an idiots guide as there is no such thing. if you are using the truck at weekends a little only then I wouldn't convert. enjoy gobs of nitro torque and noise. converting to electric is neither easy nor cheap for the first conversion. second and third conversions are cheaper as you already have the charger/batteries etc. if you are determined to convert there are two routes 1. - keep centre gearbox and use something like RC-monster mount . or 2. go centre diff route and junk the gearbox these two approaches need different kv motor to get the gearing right so you need to do your research first. not going to answer the question about soldering. if you can't solder don't even bother a then you need to reconsider an electric conversion. learn to solder, learn about electrics or don't bother. you are going down a hard path to convert a 1/8th monster truck from a newbie position. correct me if I am wrong in any assumptions. Edited August 8, 2015 by jari Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 This thing still running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jari Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 This thing still running? Yes still running. Not been out with anything for at least a month though. Family holidays have got in the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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