taiwan Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 hey guys, im in need of help, im desperately getting confused trying to understand what gearing i should be using on the center diff. ive gone through trying to understand the original ratio, and then trying to compare it to the center diff and i get lost... ive managed to source a 11 tooth pinion with a standard 48 tooth vorza flux center diff. running with a hobbywing xerun 150a w/2000kv on 4s, am i going to be overheating or should i just run and see what happens? alot of people are saying a 10/48 is the way to go, but im not having much luck finding a 10 pinion, so going 11/50 be a better idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 gota temp gun? ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taiwan Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 (edited) i do yes for my nitro's. whats hot, or seen as hot temps for me to keep in mind? Edited March 18, 2015 by taiwan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 i do yes for my nitro's. whats hot, or seen as hot temps for me to keep in mind?I thk anything above 80-90. ...but don't quote me..I'm sure sum one will b along to verify temps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fornowagain Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 (edited) Here's the standard flux gearing. For a CD, change transmission ration to 1. Put your spur at 48 and pinion to 11, change to 2000kv and select 4s, pick your wheel diameter. I'll guess you tyres at 6.3", it's suggested to start with a rollout ratio of 1:1 and see how temps go. So, 11/48 is around 40/60mph on 4/6s, 1.41:1, on the high side. 10/50 is 35/52mph, 1.23:1, better. 9/50 is 31/47, 1.1:1 better still. http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html Edited March 19, 2015 by fornowagain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evssv Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Think I'll save that link 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cat7 Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 I've been looking at putting a Vorza centre diff in our flux, which is running the stock motor, transmission and esc. I'd like to keep the current overall ratio, so in order to calculate what pinion and spur to use I need to know the input-to-output ratio of the standard flux gearbox, however I cant find out what it actually is - can anyone help please ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cat7 Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 I've finally got around to doing this conversion, and have another question. There are lots of posts around which suggest a 50-tooth spur gives slightly better clearance than the stock vorza 48-tooth one. I've found that cost of a stock vorza diff + 50t spur from dollarhobbyz or ebay is more than the cost of an entire new Hot Bodies Lightweight Center Differential Set with 50T spur from modelsport (part 113474, here and here) So, does anyone know if this is suitable ? from what I can see the internals are the same as the Vorza but I'd appreciate a second opinion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 I use a standard Savvy diff with a Hellfire 52 tooth spur. This gives more clearance for the motor and allows smaller pinions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cat7 Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 2 hours ago, Tug said: I use a standard Savvy diff with a Hellfire 52 tooth spur. This gives more clearance for the motor and allows smaller pinions. Thanks - i didnt realise a Savage diff would fit the Alza brackets, which makes me wonder why everyone is buying vorza diffs instead. As it happens we're planning to upgrade our Savage diffs with Hotbodies cups anyway so will have a spare set of savage diffs to use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 1 hour ago, cat7 said: Thanks - i didnt realise a Savage diff would fit the Alza brackets, which makes me wonder why everyone is buying vorza diffs instead. As it happens we're planning to upgrade our Savage diffs with Hotbodies cups anyway so will have a spare set of savage diffs to use Do check, but I think the only difference will be one of the bearing dimensions. The internal dimension is bigger on the plastic diff cup, so no reason why it wouldn't fit the CD mount as the outside dimension should be the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toxic Basher Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 I used a vorza diff for mine but just because it was spare. It's got the lightened internals and has performed perfect. No idea what size spur gear I've got on it though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cat7 Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 (edited) Thanks everyone for the info. I've been having a longer look at the Hot Bodies Lightweight Center Differential Set with 50T spur (part 113474, here and here), which is intended for one of the D8 variants and it looks like it will fit into a Vorza ok but with one possible problem. Most of the parts are the same as the Vorza centre diff, except that the part numbers for the drive cups are different to those on the Vorza diff but i cant work out if they are the same dimensions or not. What really matters is whether they will take the savage dogbones or not, and if not which ones do I need Can anyone help me workout if the drive cups are the right ones for savage dogbones ? Edited April 6, 2016 by cat7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cat7 Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 I've been playing around with gearing etc and have come to the conclusion that a standard Vorza diff with a 48T spur and 10T pinion is the closes to the stock gearing we have. So, I've ordered the diff and now need to find a pinion. I think the Losi 8ightE 1.0 Module Pitch Pinion 10 Tooth at Modelsport will fit as its Mod 1 with a 5mm shaft, but can someone confirm this is correct please ? It would be good to know of any alternatives as well as these are supplier stock only Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 10, 2016 Share Posted April 10, 2016 Any mod 1, 5mm bore will fit. HPI pinions are ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cat7 Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Thanks - I couldnt find an HPI one with 10 teeth, they seem to start at 11. If you know a part number or have a link could you post it please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cat7 Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 So, the Alza kit has arrived (and its superb), along with a 48T Vorza centre diff and a Losi 8e 10T pinion (which meshes perfectly with the diff) All's going well apart from two things - are there any suggestions as to the best way of mounting the ESC ? We have a stock flux hp and the motor now sits where the ESC mount used to go. I can probably figure something out but any suggestions would be welcome - the screws which hold the motor to the motor plate are too large a diameter to fit into the threads in the stock flux HP motor we have (screws are M4, holes in endplate are M3). This in itself isn't a problem as I have plenty of M3's to use instead, but how can I make sure the motor wont move around because I now have a 3mm bolt going through a 4mm slot in the Alza mount, and in my experience, if it can move, it will ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 Use washers to stop the bolt heads damaging the motor mount and just tighten up with blue threadlock, it won't go anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cat7 Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Thanks, I've found some M3 flanged head bolts so will use those in conjunction with washers, the flanges should stop them moving about too much Are there any suggestions or recommendations about how best to re-mount the ESC ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Can you bolt it to a TVP? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cat7 Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 I don't think so because the standard ESC mount has a 'leg' beneath it which bolts to the motor plate; now the motor has been moved its in the way of the leg. It looks like the leg might come off but it will then only be attached by one screw to the tvp. I'll have to have a hunt round the garage as I think I've got some aluminium plate in there which I might be able to make something up with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Yeah, that's what I meant, just fabricate your own mount. I made one from a simple piece of L-angle ally. The short side is bolted to the TVP, the ESC sits on the long side which is horizontal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cat7 Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 ok, I get it now I'm sure I've got a bit of L-shaped ally in the back of the garage somewhere so will have a root round tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.