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Hobbywing XERUN 150a battery connection


evilhomer

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Hey all

 

My Hobbywing ESC/Motor combo just arrived which is great news so I can almost complete my conversion however it came pre-fitted with battery connection to connect two batteries.

 

I'm assuming I'm ok to change that and make it 1 battery connection so I can run a single 4s Lipo on it right?

 

I've tried pulling the cables out but they seem pretty tight in there.

 

Should I just cut the connectors off and re-solder a new connector on?  Or should I'm I safe to give it a bit more welly and take the existing cable out?  I just don't want to cause any damage

 

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Hey all

My Hobbywing ESC/Motor combo just arrived which is great news so I can almost complete my conversion however it came pre-fitted with battery connection to connect two batteries.

I'm assuming I'm ok to change that and make it 1 battery connection so I can run a single 4s Lipo on it right?

I've tried pulling the cables out but they seem pretty tight in there.

Should I just cut the connectors off and re-solder a new connector on? Or should I'm I safe to give it a bit more welly and take the existing cable out? I just don't want to cause any damage

yep..jus take off the joining wire and solder on ur plug..job done! ! Edited by evssv
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How does the loop work?  Do you connect that to the loose end so you can keep the choice?

Yeah you plug it in one of the spare connectors, just shorts it out. Personally I'd modify it for its main use to keep it tidy. With a single deans, you can always use a serial cable to go back to two packs.

 

P.S. no need to cut them, just get them hot enough and break the solder joint.

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Awesome thanks for all the help so far!

 

Last stupid question, if I heat up the joint is there any risk to the ESC?  I'm assuming the heat won't travel far enough to blow it?

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It can do. Depends on a lot of things. Cable length, time being the main one. Surprising how far heat can travel up a cable. 

 

For a new connection. Get the wire end and the solder part ready first. Pre-tin the wire with solder+flux, same for the connector. Pre-position everything, make good contact, no gaps, so use helping hands or pin it all down. I was always taught a good mechanical connection first, then electrical. So wire twists and winding posts etc. Anyway, you want to heat it up locally as fast you can and until the solder melts then gently feed in some more until full, then stop the heat. Wait a sec till it sets and cool it. Blow on it or wet it. A good solder joint should take just seconds, if you're on there ages you're doing it wrong.

Edited by fornowagain
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As I said, once it set. Watch it flow correctly, it should be sucked into the joint then stop once it's full. Any more and it'll over flow. It should look even, nice and shiny, you can easily tell a cold joint they look matt or flat. As soon as I can, if I'm protecting a delicate board I'm going to blow on it to reduce the temp asap. You can also use some damp tissue wrapped around the cable to reduce transfer.

 

Oh and use a low melting point multicore solder. I'm still using lead/tin, got some huge rolls of the old RS stuff, really nice.

 

I would recommend some practise goes if it's all new to you. I don't really use soldering irons much any more, I have a hot air rework station for surface mount repairs that works surprising well on connectors. For irons, I'm a big fan the old fashioned Weller Magnastat design. It maintains the tip temp by varying the power, rather than just overheating the bit, saves on melted connectors..  

Edited by fornowagain
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