evilhomer

Now sold

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/34466-losi-8ight-body/ Hi all For sale I have a Losi 8ight 3.0 clear shell which is brand new out of a kit. This is surplus as its being converted to brushless. These appear to cost around

Decided to put my 454 in the hyper. Still unsure if I'll keep it but thought sod it all I need is some new nitro fuel and it's good to go Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where do you get the foam from? I was thinking about doing something similar. My packs fit almost snug but there is a bit of a gap. They are strapped but they could move very slightly so I thought of adding a little bit of cushion

I read over on a different forum an old post that mentioned seating LiPo's side ways rather bottom down. I've got a couple of hard packs and on the other forum it mentioned this makes them less prone to splitting the case in a crash? I'm not sure of the logic of this to be honest. Anyway I'm interested in what people do to help protect lipo's while being transported by their RC cars? So I've heard two things 1. The side ways thing mentioned above 2. Wrapping them with duck tape Is 2 needed if they are hard packs? Very interested to see what other people do

Thanks for the tip, I normally find lmgtfy much more amusing :-) I have the paper book and checked but its not very clear. There is a part to buy the full sway bar kit but thats not really what I want and there is a part that is a selection of set screws. I'm assuming its in there so I just need to find somewhere that has it

One of the grub screws that holds the front sway bar at the front of the Losi 5t has disappeared. Anyone know what size/screws I need to order? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey I was seeing this in the 1/5th scale but I changed all those to the smaller rx's. For some reason the telemetry 3300 (I think) have shorter antenna. I try to get the wire as straight up as possible. I might do a bit of shopping around and start switching over to Futaba and see how that goes. Just going to cost a little bit more than a couple of receivers so I may also swap some out of other cars and just make sure its definitely that which is causing the glitches Cheers Chris

For about 5 years I've been running a spektrum DX3S and have a collection of telemetry rx's (ones that come with the combo) and smaller non telemetry. For as long as I've had it I seem to get serious range issues, even on a small course regularly losing range. When I've switched out the telemetry for the smaller kind I seem to get much better range. I've tried a few telemetry rx's and in different cars and always have the same problem. Is this a common complaint? I could replace the rx's but thinking of doing an upgrade as well. Is the DX4S much better? What about futaba? I use futaba for flight and thinking maybe it's time to switch. Range issues just really suck Any advice or recommendations? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why not working? I have a xerun 150a that isn't really working. Let me know if interested Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all So the final reveal! I've painted the shell in Martini Racing Colours. I struggled to get decals for 1/8 scale but found the 1/10th scale I got on eBay was enough. It's not a perfect paint job but I'm pretty poor at this generally so I'm declaring this my best shell so far. Couple of things worth noting 1. With a big 4s pack on its pretty tight in there. I'll probably put some velcro on the sides to help it out a little as it sits a bit wonky with the cables pushing it up 2. I wanted to try and protect the paint job a bit. I was going to use drywall and shoo glue but in the end I decided on using gorilla tape. this seems to have made it a bit more sturdy 3. I'll probably order some bumpers as I use this for bashing its likely to take a few hits 4. I did take it for a quick run but on the first straight, the ESC blew up. I ended up ordering a Castle Mamba 2 2200kv and 6s ESC combo and putting that in the car. Oh my god, the speed is literally insane! I highly recommend this 5. I did get the ESC replaced so I now have a hobbywing Xerun combo and I'm now bored so need a new project. Thinking of getting an Xray XB8e as I wouldn't need much more than another servo and receiver to add to it Enjoy the latest pictures http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/32890-losi-night-now-with-castle-combo/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/32891-/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/32892-martini-racing-shell-back/ http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/32893-/

Hi all Looking for my next conversion project. Anyone got a Losi LST XXL they are thinking about getting rid off? Let me know Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm unsure on the flex/motor brace topic. At some point I'm going to get the CNC braces no doubt but it all seems pretty stable with the motor brace currently installed. I'm tempted to take it off and try both, actually even with only two screws, because of the slider it actually fits very snug against the motor mount so not sure the brace underneath is definitely going to be needed. I'm probably over thinking this to be honest. I've broken far more expensive bits on the Baja. If I can the shell painted, there is a chance she might make an appearance at a Bash on Sunday

Stage 7: Fit the ESC and servo and she lives! She lives! So far she's had a test drive around my living room and nothing exploded! I'm ruling that a total success. First thing I had to do here was solder new connectors to the ESC. I am literally useless at soldering having only done it a handful of times. I bought a new 80w weller iron for the job and already had flux and solder from the recent DJI F550 build. I had tried previously but wasn't happy with the job so this was attempt 2. With the new iron it was a lot easier. I won't go as far as to say its perfect. The solder could be shinier but its not quite that horrid cold grey either. Regardless I'm sticking with it now I don't think I'll make it better. I'm using 5.5mm bullets. I was planning on using Deans connectors but it was easier to change one ESC cable rather than lots of batteries and they seem pretty nice connectors. If you have to do this my tip is take your time! Then it was on to the servo. I installed a nice new Savox (having used them in previous cars and had great service from them all). I have a couple of tips here 1. Firstly, when installing the steering link I ended up taking the radio box out again as it was tricky to get in and I needed a bolt as well. 2. Turn on the transmitter and car before seating the servo arm to make sure its in the right position 3. Be careful on the size of screws, I found there is little clearance room around that area and things can knock about. So what is left to do? Very little, I need to prep the body, try and unstick my fingers from gluing tyres onto wheels (which by the way top tip, seat them on first and check orientation. My tread is directional and nearly made a stupid mistake of having some point the wrong way), then paint it. Hopefully with a clear day on Saturday the shell could be sprayed and the final reveal will be made. http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/32805-/

Step 6: Install the motor Here is where things got interesting for me. In theory it should be a case of screwing the thing in. I had a bit of a nightmare. The losi kit comes with M4 screws which don't fit the fixings on the hobbywing motor. I trundled down to my local RC and hardware store, and was pointed to a rack of screws. I couldn't find anything with M3 written on it so I asked and was told they are probably M3. When I got home I found the screws didn't fit. Initially my suspicion was that the holes weren't M3 so I stole a couple of screws from my Firestorm and they fit. I checked the manual and they said M3, the tech specs on the Hobbywing also said M3. So I ordered some new M3s and the engine is now mounted. It was a bit fiddly. To get it in snug I had to put the screws in lose then slide the motor in and tighten them up once in the bracket. This was a pain to get to but was sorted. I then had to tighten the grub screw in on my new pinion which is the 15t and it seems to fit nice. I just need to test and make sure the mesh is good. The next step was to solder some new bullet connectors to the ESC. I tried this with my Dremel Versatip and got a nice tin on the connector but really struggled to tin the thick cable and get it to join. I'm not convinced by the soldering job so in the end I went and got a decent but well priced Weller 80w and I plan to redo the connectors with this hoping that I can get better heat quickly into the join and create a better connection. I'll update on that as my next step. So the car is nearly complete, left to do: 1. Sort the ESC connectors and attach it to the car (how do people do this? With 3M sticky pads? Velcro? what is best?) 2. Install my Savox servo 3. Paint the shell (took ages to get the right paint. I won't spoil the final reveal but I hope its going to look a stunner even with my poor spraying skills) 4. Finish gluing all the tyres to wheels (hopefully avoid my fingers this time) 5. Drive it like I stole it http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/32779-/

Sorry for the few days silence on my build, I got distracted by a hexacopter build and some (lack of) soldering skills... So. I continued the build and here goes Step 5: Install the radio box and battery tray This bit was really straight forward. Using the supplied screws, fit it all in. It's pretty obvious where they go. The only issue I had was getting the battery tray all lined up. For this I found it easier to loosely attach all the screws then afterwards tighten them all up http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/32778-losi-8ight-radio-and-battery/

I've got successful (or at least should be successful closure on my faulty Lipo and thought I'd be constructive in case anyone comes across this thread and needs to do similar. Hobbyking do offer 24 hour support but its entirely through email. You can't as far as I can tell just call up and explain the issue for a quick resolution like UK hobby shops. However that is to be expected and the price you pay is much less than some other places. I found the process quite frustrating as I initially raised an RMA request against the order. This appeared to be relatively straight forward and required some pictures to be uploaded which I did but it never got past "Waiting for initial examination". In the end I went through their support channel, which isn't as easy to find and not as user friendly, but it uses something called ZenDesk which I'm familiar with as the company I work for uses it and it's not always the best from a customer point view. Anyway, from there I found a link to send an email. Click "Submit a request" and you can send an email. This was far better at getting a response. I'd say in each case I got a response within 24 hours. The agent that dealt with it was very professional, requested a lot of information including detailed pictures but when I did that, they issued a new order to send out a replacement battery. I'm awaiting on it, but assuming it arrives I didn't even need to send my old one back which I'd say is actually very good! So in summary, I may have been hasty in saying I probably would avoid them in future, but I would say they could improve and monitor their returns process a bit better... Hope it helps for anyone in the future and thanks all for personal experiences

Thanks all. It seems they do sort people out so that's good it's all I wanted to check or if there was something specific I should be doing. They requested more pictures so I'll do them. I'm not even to worried about the time, more lack of understanding and response when I queried it. They serve a purpose but I think for most things I'll generally stick to uk sellers Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did put the warranty code into the site, however I find it a very strange system, why do I have to tell them the warranty on the sticker when they sent me the battery? Surely that could be scanned as it leaves the warehouse? And lets say it can't be scanned on leaving the warehouse, it wasn't very clear I had to do it. I stumbled across it purely by accident.

Sorry all not ranting I'm not sure I need to chill They have now come back and requested a bunch of information. I raise it as the support states 24hour support so I was surprised I'd not heard anything, even if it was just to request more information and when I spoke to their customer service all I got was "send an email and wait". Compared to other companies I've dealt with recently, this is pretty poor service and maybe I'm in the minority but I'd rather pay a little bit more so that when things do go wrong I can just call them up and arrange a return and replacement without having to send emails and wait days for a response Anyway good to know other people have had good service. Hopefully once I send the rest of the details I'll get sorted.

Anyone ever had a faulty item and had to return to Hobbyking. One of my 4S lipo packs is only showing 3 cells so I can't even charge it to use a single time. The battery has never been used/only arrived a few days back. I raised an RMA with Hobbyking but all is quiet, sent an email, and tried to talk to the online chat agents but no one can tell me what is going to happen. I don't know if I need to post it back yet. It's not a massive amount of money, but getting a bit annoyed as raised the request Friday. I doubt I'll use them again, I guess you get what you pay for

Strike my previous questions. I've now checked, its definitely M3 screws. I just stole some from the firestorm and they fit perfectly. I could still do with knowing the best length. How many mm's can I go into the can?

That being said the technical info on hobbywing's site clearly states M3. If I can screw in a few mm by hand, does it just mean that I need to screw a bit more with a screwdriver? I'm nervous about going too far in and damaging the motor

So I don't think my motor uses M3's to mount them. I tried some M3's but they only screw in a very short distance of a few MM. So I took a mount screw from the box and measured the diameter with a digital caliper and it is showing 2.4mm. Anyone got any idea what these screws actually are so I can order some longer ones? I'm getting the feeling I'm not going to be able to mount this in my Losi very well if they were planning on using M4 screws. Any help massively appreciated

Awesome! If you find a good clamp solution I might interested in trying something like that let me know what you find. For now I'll use the motor mount from the kit that supports the back end and get some M3 screws. I might just avoid really big jumps