Bigjimknickers Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 They won't be needed with the savox servos. That was why I went for 2 x 0240 there the same as 0236 but waterproof, either fit with no mods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harris2258 Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Cheers for that and I've also got killer rc lid so I'll fit my battery in ,just got loads of mods to fit now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QRC Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 That's what the guys on the LS site said, suppose it's about how much Jofer or Area RC bling you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harris2258 Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Just spoke to a guy at freeprawn he says savox fit no mod needed hitec you need to mod. But it's like you said depends upon how much bling you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Is there a knack to removing and replacing the shell ? Iam finding it a pain,was thinking of trimming the front part a tad.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QRC Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Talking about body shells, been looking for another shell, found this site, some may fit the dbxl, http://www.grafilbodies.com/prestashop/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigjimknickers Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 Is there a knack to removing and replacing the shell ? Iam finding it a pain,was thinking of trimming the front part a tad.. Not sure if it's the best way but I start at the front, then put the two rear ones in, followed by the side ones. Then put 6 clips in. (2x front , 4x rear) Suits me ;-) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lazkopat Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 The Crazy Stu Strong as **** chassis is nearly upon us..... This is the final sample back from his machine shop and he's now 100% happy with it, he needs to get 20 preorders to get a production run, I've put my name down for one, price is around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 The big difference is the Stu has cutouts to use 5ive engine mount inserts to set the mesh, also I think the red looks stupid and won't age well, but that's just my opinion http://www.freeprawnracing.co.uk/losb-5802-5ive-t-engine-mount-inserts-screws-20t-4-losb5802.html My stock chassis is getting pretty chewed up where the engine mount bolts are and ive also got a bit of a bend in it (the fuel tank doesn't quite fit how it used to lol) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leeb Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 Not sure if it's the best way but I start at the front, then put the two rear ones in, followed by the side ones. Then put 6 clips in. (2x front , 4x rear) Suits me ;-) That's the way I do it, if you don't get the front ones sorted first forget it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigjimknickers Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 Today got the Dbxl running, installed the Fid racing servo horns & set them up, then I bolted my new Rcmk air filer on, not sure if that'll be much of an upgrade over stock but they say is at DDM. I oiled the inner filter like before, I take it it needed oil? They say you must use a outwears with this filter too. Anyway, it started up sweet as like usual & it's ready for a bash once more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lazkopat Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Bigjim what oil do u use for filters? There's this FTT oil on freeprawn..is that any good for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigjimknickers Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 I use uber Rc filter oil, I pour a little into a plastic bag then squeeze it all over til its evenly applied & not too wet, then pop it back on, I wash the outer filter in the sink with the outwears with a little washing up liquid. Funny enough just done mine & about to put it back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Just bought the switchblade killswitch,is there much taking apart involved for the stop switch ?cant ya tell its all new to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigjimknickers Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 You can "T" the wires into the killswitch wires already there to keep your killswitch live if that's what you mean. Sorry for the plumbing wording but don't know any other way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 lol,I should have said,(what bits do I remove to get to the stop button wires} Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigjimknickers Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 The side engine case is all you need to remove, the stop button just pops out. The wires can go through a gap by the crank up to the coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lazkopat Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 Managed to install the outerwear for the pullstarter for my DBXL. looks easy but it aint! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted May 31, 2015 Share Posted May 31, 2015 The side engine case is all you need to remove, the stop button just pops out. The wires can go through a gap by the crank up to the coil. Ta very much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lazkopat Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 (edited) I don't if you guys had a similar issue but luckily ive just noticed it! The pinion of my dbxl engine has eaten up the tank slightly ! Luckily I saw it just about in time as the pinion did not penetrate through the fuel tank! Has anyone else had similar issue? Is it down to the fact that the stock engine mounts for dbxl is plastic and tends to not keep the engine still at high RPMs, I'm guessing?? Edited June 2, 2015 by lazkopat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkpalmer Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 The the fid tank from rcmodelz for about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QRC Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Also worth upgrading the motor mount and clutch carrier to alloy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lazkopat Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 The the fid tank from rcmodelz for about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.AJ. Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 The FID tank does away with the part of the tank which under cuts the pinion gear 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lazkopat Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 The FID tank does away with the part of the tank which under cuts the pinion gear Okay I shall get a spare FID tank and keep hold of it until the pinion totally eates up the stock tank Is it worth upgrading the tank holders to alloy too? or is just adding extra weigth to the DBXL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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