3D Printing Discussion

[Tamiyacowboy]

you have a plate already, this is a heated plate, you can make it more warm or more cooler.

 

everyone as a kiddie has seen plastic melt, to much heat it drips and gets everywhere.

but its main feature is its very sticky, a small blob on a finger sticks itself to your skin and it keeps burning as it cools.

 

so we are melting plastic till its runny and we also know it likes to stick to stuff, and some things it bonds to like hell on earth.

 

so what we can do is use a sheet of glass ontop of the heated bed. plastic does not bond well to glass.

but it will have a bit of stick to it. 

what most-some do is this, they use kapton tape or the likes as a base layer ontop of the glass, and you then printing ontop of this tape.

the heat keep the plastic warm and tacky'ish so it holds itself down.

 

 

do you have to use tape or glue, Nope you can use hairspray to super hold hairspray has been siad to offer up good holding power

while printing., you have a nice heated bed so its best to keep this area nice and clean, but if your printing on it, its going to become damaged

scrapped up etc etc, the glass is like a second protective layer but it also acts like a heat sink holding the heat so your models stay put when printing.

 

where baorevo uses glue and a very light coat, another may find hairspray works just as good when a fine mist is sprayed over the glass

to much and the glass becomes a wet surface so the plastic slides around, to dry the plastic bonds to glass. 

 

 

so you use glass and you cannot get the part of. most of the time its because the heat bed is still holding heat. so you remove your glass upper plate

holding the model and place this on a cooler surface. as the glass cools you will hear the plastic model start to debond, the heat is lost the plastic cools

and lifts from the glass ( you will hear it creek and crack as it cools on the warm but ever cooling glass).

[baorevo]

Vr5fx if you have any questions im in all day (i work nights) ....

[Vr5fx]

Yeah the instructions take some reading lol but apparently as instructions go for prusa its normal lol.

 

i got a glass plate to get away from the taping the bed heres a link to a glass plate at amazon uk for you http://www.amazon.co.uk/Velleman-Glass-Panel-3D-Printer/dp/B00ICKHRBA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1442402912&sr=8-1&keywords=3d+printer+glass

 

and you will need these to hold it on http://www.amazon.co.uk/Connect-32mm-Foldback-Clip-Pack/dp/B000KJKIH6/ref=pd_sim_229_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QJARSY8MNZB6TF02JVD&dpID=31KYhEnOKyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_

 

then instead of tape you use uhu stick glue ( a thin smear)

 

Thanks for that!

 

Im probably about half way though, and I've encountered some issues.

While putting the vertical rods in, one of the bearings ended up emptying all over the floor. Not good.

I retrieved as many as I could and popped them back in but it now seems stiff. I'm not sure if this will massively effect how it works, but I shall be looking for a replacement.

 

The second problem is, in the instructions, all parts are clear acrylic, so I can't tell how the parts to fit. I've skipped this part

 

 

How do parts M and R fit onto L......

 

Also I'm missing screws.

Time for a cuppa and then a second look.

Edited September 16, 2015 by Vr5fx

[baorevo]

M goes on top of the plate with one nut and bolt holding it on through the middle hole and the 2 r parts go underneath the plate and grip the belt

 

 

Edited September 16, 2015 by baorevo

[Vr5fx]

M goes on top of the plate with one nut and bolt holding it on through the middle hole and the 2 r parts go underneath the plate and grip the belt

 

 

That works!

 

Regarding the Hot bed. what orientation does it plug into the main board? I've got a Red and Black, where as the manual has 2 Reds.... O_o

Edited September 16, 2015 by Vr5fx

[Tamiyacowboy]

saving my pennys, i have enough save to grab one at that price right now, but the worry of customs extras

could push me beyond my  wallets means. aka it leaves me with under a ton for three weeks, thats a hard push

on anyone.

 

so i decided im going to get the extract same model, just hang out a bit longer and pay a little extra for one already in the uk.

that way no sneeky we want delivery import pennys of you letter. 

 

already worked out the first things i will print after calibration runs, and thats going to be track runners for all the cabling.

if they run inside the track like industrial sized machines they are safer and less prone to catching up and are kept somewhat tidy

( you think this is a good idea Baorevo ?, all the i3 vids i seen are very nasty birds nest wiring ).

[Vr5fx]

saving my pennys, i have enough save to grab one at that price right now, but the worry of customs extras

could push me beyond my  wallets means. aka it leaves me with under a ton for three weeks, thats a hard push

on anyone.

 

so i decided im going to get the extract same model, just hang out a bit longer and pay a little extra for one already in the uk.

that way no sneeky we want delivery import pennys of you letter. 

 

already worked out the first things i will print after calibration runs, and thats going to be track runners for all the cabling.

if they run inside the track like industrial sized machines they are safer and less prone to catching up and are kept somewhat tidy

( you think this is a good idea Baorevo ?, all the i3 vids i seen are very nasty birds nest wiring ).

 

 

I've had some mesh for wiring lying around. While I was building I've been using it. I hope to have it finished soon, minus the hotbed wiring. Pics to follow later tonight.

[Tamiyacowboy]

That works!

 

Regarding the Hot bed. what orientation does it plug into the main board? I've got a Red and Black, where as the manual has 2 Reds.... O_o

 

on the mainboard the wires goto the bed port connector block, infront of the block on the upper side of board should be a + or - denoting what side is either pos or neg.

red wire is pos - black wire is neg......... its possible thats an old manual rewrote and the old beds required you to look on rear and trace the neg and pos wires as they are same color.

 

but yeah black to negative red to positive .

[Vr5fx]

on the mainboard the wires goto the bed port connector block, infront of the block on the upper side of board should be a + or - denoting what side is either pos or neg.

red wire is pos - black wire is neg......... its possible thats an old manual rewrote and the old beds required you to look on rear and trace the neg and pos wires as they are same color.

 

but yeah black to negative red to positive .

 

There are no markings at all on the main board for the heat bed.

 

So I've finished the build, checked it all over and decided to plug her in. Nothing at all happens.

I'm not sure if I'm missing something obvious.... The power supply has a green light, and the fan on the extruder spins for around a second then cuts out. No other sign of life.

 

[EDIT] IT WORKS! 13 hours and it works!

Edited September 16, 2015 by Vr5fx

[baorevo]

Cool !!!!!!

For the hot bed i wired it the same as the power input on the board, same orientation that is in the heat bed plug

[baorevo]

saving my pennys, i have enough save to grab one at that price right now, but the worry of customs extras

could push me beyond my  wallets means. aka it leaves me with under a ton for three weeks, thats a hard push

on anyone.

 

so i decided im going to get the extract same model, just hang out a bit longer and pay a little extra for one already in the uk.

that way no sneeky we want delivery import pennys of you letter. 

 

already worked out the first things i will print after calibration runs, and thats going to be track runners for all the cabling.

if they run inside the track like industrial sized machines they are safer and less prone to catching up and are kept somewhat tidy

( you think this is a good idea Baorevo ?, all the i3 vids i seen are very nasty birds nest wiring ).

End of the day tam you are speanding the money so do whats good for you

Did you meen this as a birds nest lol

[baorevo]

It got cleaned up after a lot of wire shortening

[Vr5fx]

I'm pretty annoyed that there are parts missing. IE, a few nuts and bolts. I had no thumb screws for the hot plate, no bolt for the filament roll. and quite a few screws missing.

 

But, what ever. Here she is.

 

 

 

Don't worry, the LCD is the correct way now.

 

So I think I've leveled the bed, and got it a pretty tight distance from the nozzle.

... Gotta re level it now. Balls.

Edited September 16, 2015 by Vr5fx

[Tamiyacowboy]

yes baorevo, but i know i would just catch those things with my clumsyness

so i think i will hotglue some cablechains to the framework to hold static cables

and those that need to move somewhat will cable chain them to.

 

i click buy it on the website but it took me to a french popup asking for my account details lol

well i think it did. can work out how to log into the darn thing.

 

Edit: logged into site now

 

enter all my details click pay now, kaspersky goes wild opens new secure window nothing happens.

close site go back in same again happens each time window is blank . so i had to cancel order because of payment failed

 

not a happy bunny 

Edited September 16, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy

[baorevo]

I would disable kapersky to make the payment, ive never had a problem with aliexpress in over 50 orders

[Deafty]

go to aliexpress and search for it.  I swear I saw it in english from the same seller

[baorevo]

Vr5fx how are y ou getting on?

One thin i forgot to mention is the fan on the heatsink need to go all the time so wire it where the 12v goes into the board

[baorevo]

go to aliexpress and search for it.  I swear I saw it in english from the same seller

Yes the english version has the same sellers

[Tamiyacowboy]

its the site itself, kaspersky saying its not secure enough for banking details to be sent.

 

infact my browser shows it as a none https://

when i log in it still is just www. yadda yadda  theres now secure key 

Edited September 16, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy

[Vr5fx]

Vr5fx how are y ou getting on?

One thin i forgot to mention is the fan on the heatsink need to go all the time so wire it where the 12v goes into the board

 

 

Too late lol. I noticed about 30 minutes ago. Didn't know it needed to be constant though, I'll get that sorted first.

I wont start until the glass has turned up, I have hairspray about too, so that's sorted. I still need to download and see what programs to use. I might try Cura to start with?

 

Other than that, I don't know what else to do to prepare for the first test.

[baorevo]

I use cura its a lot better than slic3r i'll tell y ou the version i use as the latest version y ou cant change the settings to match our printers ..... by the way theres nothing shopping y ou printing now the glass is just better.

The only thing i has to change was the extrusion rate from 100 to 100.5

[baorevo]

For controlling the printer manually you have repetier on the sd card and its with that i changed the extrusion rate

[Vr5fx]

I'd rather take my time, and it's late now.

 

It took me 13 hours to get to this point. With a handful of problems that are now sorted. Apart from nothing to hold the role of filament.

 

If my bits turn up tomorrow, I'll have a test print. I just dont want to keep adjusting the bed. without the thumb screws it's a pain.

[baorevo]

I got butterfly nuts for the bed and a short piece of threaded rod got the spool holder.

Contact the seller HE is vert quick to reply and very helpfull

Edited September 16, 2015 by baorevo

[Tamiyacowboy]

lol adjust the bed and get something printed for calibration.

 

nip over to thingyverse -solidworks site and find a wing nut. 

print said wingnut 6 times ( two for spares ) 

 

 

 

you now have a printer so you can print what you need, as for the bed you can use your painters tape

to clean away the residue when you remove it from the hotbed wait till its cool pul of tape let it get total cold

grab isopropol alcohol pop a little on the cloth and give it a wipe over on the hotbed ( hotbed must be cold and the hotend to)

let it evap away wipe with a lint free cloth and its brand new again.

 

 

have a browse at all the stuff on the sites models etc etc. things you can use to see how well the printer is preforming and where it can be

tweeked. things like open frame vases these are technical and can push the printer time length wise. cubes test overhangs and layering shifts

on the axis. prymids test the cooling and laying down speed.

 also print of spare parts for the printer and parts to help with cooling the plastic after its layed.

i like the idea of pre printing of some spares, handy to have just incase anything did go awol or got loose over time.

Edited September 16, 2015 by Tamiyacowboy