oodboo Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 Yes I'm sure about the cut off. Tamiya sell life batteries and set the cut off to about 4v. If they set it closer to 6v for Lipo then their life batteries would still be half charged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted December 31, 2014 Author Share Posted December 31, 2014 Finished Bag C today and started on bag D. While there, I checked out the switch on the ESC, thankfully I'm able to get it to exit and be properly secured out of the stock location and it works through the rubber boot so looks like I'm sorted switch wise, I hadn't even considered that before so thanks for the heads up, thankfully it works out - Phew! I'll chuck some pics up for now and edit the descriptions later! Step 24 Motor mounted... Pinion greased and closed up Step 25 Step 26 Step 26 complete...end of bag C Step 27 - Skipped over this as already messed about with the RC equipment before starting the kit Here's the transmitter I'll be using posted in another thread previously... using this 3 position switch for gearchanges... All already programmed in, including model name!! Bag D Bag D contents Step 28 Today's tally, 1 hour and 20 minutes. You can see the ESC on the top cover in the background with the rubber on/off boot which the switch is poking up through. It's not as large as the tamiya switch so a little more fiddly to turn on and off but at least it can be done through the boot and easy enough when you know the technique to switching it. I ordered a Futaba dual ball bearing metal geared steering servo today. For the transmission I'm using a standard Futaba S3003 servo for the time being unless it becomes necessary to put something beefier in. Resisted putting the wheels on once again! I haven't earnt that until all the electronics are in! I had a bed in session with the gearbox using a 1.5v AA battery! All working well, it's fun playing with the gear shifter lol! I was wrong about the diffs, contrary to what I said earlier in the thread, when the prop shafts are connected, spinning a wheel on one side has the opposite side going in reverse. Cheers Nito Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 (edited) Will this setup do for my Bruiser? thanks ibo Spektrum DX5e DSMX 5 Channel TX/RX Combo Mode 2 & Free AR400 Receiver Spektrum Digital Super High Torque Metal Geared Servo Mtroniks TIO Rock Crawler ESC Edited January 1, 2015 by ibo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 1, 2015 Author Share Posted January 1, 2015 (edited) I just looked at the Spektrum user manual online. From what I can see, it doesn't have a three position switch, only a two position. So you could use it by changing gears using an H pattern shift by installing a gearchange shift gate on it like this; . If you want to shift gears on a switch which I'm doing, mainly because I want to minimise the risk of mis shifting or anything, I'm not sure that there would be a great danger of that anyway with this setup but I think there's less chance of things going wrong. With the above you'd shift left for first, middle for second and right for third, with forward/reverse working traditionally in each gear. The Futaba 6ch doesn't have a 3 position switch either, only the 7ch one if a 3 position switch is important to you, which is being sold at kings lynn models for about Edited January 1, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the watchman Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 (edited) The m-troniks tio crawler esc i would say no, its limit is 35t and in my experiance does not like being on that limit unless a bec is fitted, i think a 540 silver can is 27/28 turn, i think, the speky servo is fine but you only need a very basic servo to shift the gears. Now as i have found you dont need a 4 channel radio to run the bruiser, any 3 channel will do as long as it has a 3 position aux switch, so that opens up your choice massively, using a stick radio on a old hilft 3 speed i found to be a bit hit and miss with the gear changes unless a shift gator was used, im using a dx4s wheel radio, gearchange is on the 3rd channel, 3 position for each gear, it works lovely and smooth, so yeah any 3 channel will do or a dx4c ?? If you then want to run lights from your 4th channel you can. Most 3 channel wheel radio's have a 3 position aux switch, normaly electronic unlike a plane heli radio where a toggle switch is used, even a 40 quid flysky has a 3 position 3rd channel Edited January 1, 2015 by the watchman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 1, 2015 Author Share Posted January 1, 2015 Good point about the silver can being 27 turn. In which case you might want to reconsider the ESC! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 I got a Spektrum DX4C the other day and what are normally the trim switches/levers can be set to be other things. One of the options is a three postion setting which could be used for a Bruiser type vehicle. You can configure either of the 4 trims to operate the 3rd and 4th channels so you could use the 3rd channel to switch the transmission and the 4th channel in a two position setting to operate lights for example. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Thanks there bud,you have just saved me a wad of money How is it going? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 (edited) The Spektrum sounds ideal if you're ok with a pistol controller. I have no problem with pistol controls, just always really used stick, but the way things are going they seem to be getting phased out in favour of pistol with only heli applications keeping stick going. Must admit, there are a lot of advantages to pistol, they're much smaller, take up a lot less room, easier to carry, one handed operation etc. That said, for things like crawling, isn't it easier to modulate forward/reverse with a stick than trying to accurately extend your forefinger for braking control, or is it just a case of getting used to it? Back to the build, I've ordered the Futaba metal geared steering servo, a Futaba S9405 coreless, waterproof, dual BB, metal geared servo, which will sit alongside the regular Futaba S3003 servo for transmission shifting. There's not a huge amount more I can do until th servo arrives. I've spent another 1hour 20 minutes last night playing really, I've sort of mock built it up with another spare servo for the moment just to see it take shape. So previously I'd got to step 29 which is the start of the electronics box... I'll need to revisit this to add the new servo, but this is just a bit of a dress rehearsal as I'll have to go over the steps following this one again later and undo what I'm about to do! There are a few other bits to assemble onto the electronics box Step 30 Prepping the servo horns and control rods. It's nice to see proper servo savers here with metal rings on them. Step 31 adding the servo horns and servo covers and how it currently sits. The box isn't properly bolted down, just loosely assembled so I don't loose any screws. All the electronics, (receiver and ESC) are in the receiver box under the black rubber switch boot. I've had it all connected up to the radio and running slowly from it's own steam just to check servo connections etc but haven't connected the servo rods up yet. I reckon I've probably another 1.30 mins to finish the chassis now. Not much left, just really need to fit the new servo, connect the rods and check the measurement on the steering rod (as the ruler in the house wan't long enough to set that one up 212mm required but it's within 1mm at the mo), adjust all the trims and settings on the remote to set up the 3 speed and make sure all working smoothly, fit the battery box and rubber bands, tidy up receiver/esc wiring and fix them down, fit wheels and tyres and body supports and bumpers. I'm itching to complete it now and get the wheels on but need to wait for the servo which according to ebay has been shipped but estimated date is 6th January!!! Never know, it may get here sooner! Just a small point, currently I have two different brand servos fitted. The layout of the servo supports means it's on a skew as the servos are slightly different size casings. It would make sense to fit matching size case servos. Cheers Nito Edited January 3, 2015 by NITO 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Sweet,long as your push rods line up to the steering and gears I cant see any probs with the servos.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 Indeed, one of the servo support rails is actually slotted both sides, probably to accomodate exactly that, it just looks a little cack. Hopefully my new servo will arrive in the next couple of days, I'm not doing anymore now until that comes Off to start the Wild Willy 2 now hopefully, because once I start back at work on Monday I won't have much time to mess about with these! Cheers Nito Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 (edited) I think the screw slots on just the one servo mount is so you can adjust when passing the servo cables between the mount and box so the wire is not moving about or different size servos,great build so far,well chuffed as you are Edited January 3, 2015 by ibo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 Sounds like a good tip also, it's so well thought out. After building this, the Wild Willy 2 I built In about 2.5 hours last night was a bit of an anti climax...I think I've been ruined lol! Wonder how satisfying the Bruiser will be to drive, it's a cracking build process and looks so solid and tough, will this transfer to the drive experience, or is it too heavy and will it bounce everywhere and break easily?! Will these see the light of day, or will they be destined to be shelf queens forever lol?! I bought this with the intention of fully using it properly, but after the mega build effort I'm not so sure lol. It would be a waste as a shelf queen but its also soul destroying to see it get mucked up. Ho hum decisions decisions...but I still have time, need to finish it first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smeghead28 Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 No reason not to use it and long as you are sensible with it and dont get it covered in mud for the sake of it Who knows though,once you get it a bit dirty you may just go "what the hell" and keep going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 It's what I'm afraid of lol! You should see the basher (actually cleans up very well)! We live in the country, it's hard to get away from mud, especially this time of year! I hate to admit this but I kind of bought this as an ultimate basher with its switcheable 2wd/4wd to be used. I was also going to go brushless too. Not sure how it would stand up to that abuse. Was originally planning a spare shell for bashing and a shelf queen one for display. Having seen quite a few vids not sure if its a bit too bouncy to make an effective basher and parts would no doubt be much dearer than the WT01 I currently use. That said we go bashing in open spaces, it's not like we deliberately go to trash them. We rarely have breakages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Fine,dry day running only perhaps, as owners of classic cars often do? A stunning piece of engineering, I understand the reluctance to actually run it....on a sunny day, shiny ally and glossy shell gleaming as you trail it gently however....that feeling of true satisfaction as you shift through the box.. Great thread, great build...worthy of staying brushed and using with care, IMHO of course 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the watchman Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 (edited) Just thinking, something i forgot, did any of you chaps get a full spare gear set inc in the box ?? Just thought i would ask as i did ?? Wondering, was a mistake or not, bonus if it was a mistake lol On the issue of driving our bruisers, well im leaving mine as is with stock can and simple tamiya esc, these things in 3rd gear shift along nicely and to be honest in 3rd it can get quite hairy, there certainly not designed to handle great thats for sure, i have no dout the the chassis and box will withstand a mild brushless system but the shell wont last 5 mins as it will be on its roof alot sends a cold shiver down my spine at even the thought of trashing such a work of art A bruiser is certainly not the most capable crawler either, it can be made to climb and crawl well with some rc4wd tyres or simlar, softer red leafs or delrin jobies, but for me a bruiser is about just having a little run round every now and then, nothing to serious just a little soft play that will put a massive smile on my mush as it hops and bounces around, if a crawler is what you want then a ascender or a scx10 is far more capable than this will ever be, they just dont hold that nostagia. Edited January 3, 2015 by the watchman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 Thanks chaps, I know exactly where you're coming from re leaving brushed. I also have the spare gears, it says somewhere in the instructions I think that some spare parts are included. I've seen a couple of crawler vids on you tube and it seemed to hold its own very well, albeit with different tyres. Matteo also has a bruiser vid, he's running Pro-Line Mashers I believe. Would the additional 4 damper provision that these have make it any better I wonder? Cheers Nito Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 Received my servo yesterday, so hopefully be back in business tonight. I've reset the steering arm length correctly and fitted the servo and all horns fitted as per instructions. I'll get some pics tonight and hopefully get it running fully and on its wheels. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 (edited) After running out of momentum while waiting for the above servo, last night I got back into it. So back to step 31 to install the new futaba 2bb metal geared servo Step 32, installing receiver and ESC. Step 33, fitting the electrics box to the chassis (fiddly pain of a job that was); Step 34, connecting up the steering and gearshift rods. The new Futaba steering servo seems spot on, quick response, precise and smooth. There are a couple of plastic inserts that temporarily fix the transmission rod in place to ensure the servo horn and rod measure is correct in the neutral position of the servo. Step 35,36 was to mess about for a while setting up the end points on the shift servo so that it wasn't binding at all on either extremity of the shift. Ended up having to reduce the epa's substantially to stop the servos buzzing. I spent quite a lot of time running through the gears and watching the 2wd/4wd shifting. It's a marvel to watch. It's also interesting to note how much give there is in the servo saver which acts as a damper to help soften the gearchange so it shifts when it's ready to as opposed to being forced into the next gear by a strong servo. There's no need for a fancy servo at all for this, I think the little Futaba s3003 is perfect for the job. Step 37, now that the servos etc are all done, it's time to fit the battery tray; Step 38, Fitting the bumpers and body mounts... Step 39...hello, what's this? Finally, the major milestone I've been waiting for....wheels! They look lovely, slight disappointment that they didn't supply the kit with the original bruiser 3 piece rims, but good news that they are available as a hop up, so I think I might end up rewarding Tamiya for doing such a great job on the rest of the kit by buying a set! These look slightly smoked to me but could just be the light... Ta daa....Step 40... Step 41 is the elastic bands for the battery. I have a velcro battery strap left over from my heli batteries that I'll probably use here instead, then I need to get some wrap for the battery/motor wires and cable tie them out of the way and fit the stubby support tube for the aerial. Although I have been so excited to get to this point, I'm also a little sad that its over. That said, its actually far from over as the bodyshell is going to be a whole new challenge. It would be easy and tempting to get some rattle cans and do an 80% good job or maybe better. But, I've bought an airbrush to try and improve on that. I don't know if I will be able to, I've always had decent results using a rattle can, I may even make it worse as this is all new to me, but its another learning curve so I'll post the results as I go along and keep adding to this thread! Thanks for looking in, I've enjoyed logging it as I've gone along and really enjoyed this build thus far, I hope it's been an enjoyable read... Edited January 8, 2015 by NITO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 If your shell turns out like your build then it will be perfect,well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 Thanks ibo. I'm feeling like I may have bitten off more than I can chew with the whole airbrush malarkey. It's been an awful lot of research and outlay for unknown gain at the moment. My only experience with airbrushes was an old humbrol plastic one with a can of compressed air when I was about 12, which I enjoyed, so hopefully it'll be a therapeutic experience as opposed to stressful, although I wasn't so obsessed with trying to achieve perfection back then! I have a high standard in mind, it'll be frustrating if I can't match that. As they say though...Nothing to it but to do it... and too much analysis leads to paralysis Whatever the outcome is, I can always go back to rattle cans, nowt wrong with them, just fancy the challenge of airbrushing having seen some of the fantastic results that far more capable people than me can produce with them; I'd like a taste of that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibo Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Go for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NITO Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 Well here's the info I said I'd post up about the EPA for the shift servo; Took a video of the transmission shifting tonight. It's currently uploading to you tube so as soon as its gone through I'll post it here. In other news, I cut out some of the plastic moulding spurs off the body shell and offered it onto the car. There's a bit of cleaning up of flash lines from the moulding process to clean off the shell. I plan to build it up a bit unpainted, put it all together get it all to line up, then strip it all back when I'm ready to spray it. Don't think it'll be soon as I want to practice on some other shells first. Cheers Nito Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJJ Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Really nice work Nito and the build thread is so informative. Pretty sure you will do a great job on the shell judging by your build so far fella. Btw, does the kit come with the towers for adding an extra damper and holes already in chassis etc, was something I fancied doing but wasn't sure and not had a good look at my kit yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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