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TXT1 wheel wideners


BryTXT1

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So iv got

Couple of brushless motors

Couple of esc

Couple of new servos

New 3 ch

Some bearings on the way

2nd bat on way

Y lead for esc

Any suggestions for what I should burn some more money on..

Decided I going to completely strip, any suggestions on best greases

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I think you've got it pretty well covered.

Let me see, Doubled side tape for fastening ESCs etc. down. Do your new ESCs come with battery connectors? One minor thing is the length of the leads on the new servos. If they're on the short side you might need an extension lead. I had to use one on mine.

For grease I used the Tamiya Ceramic for the gears and general use and Ansman dif grease. Really any of the name brand RC greases should be OK but The Tamiya is particularly good if expensive but you don't need much of it. The Ansmann dif grease is good and not too expensive for the 90g tub.

John

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No they don't but think iv got some lying round. Was going to order some tape but forgot... Servo leads is a very good point

This thing takes some taking apart... How do I take the rods off without snapping the ****ers

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Needle nose pliers are good for easing the rod ends off. Once you've got one end off though the other end can just be done by hand. One warning though the rod ends won't stand being taken off more than about two times before they start to get really sloppy.

BTW I presume you've got a copy of the manual.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/58280ml.pdf

John

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Rebuilds going well, 3/4s way through building the rear axel I fired an e clip across the living room never to be seen again, half an hour of searching through my dads very large garage and finally finding one I finished the axels. Now trying to take transition apart to change bearings and grease and the **** I bought it off seems to have used a bottle of lock tight on each screw and to top it off he rounded the heads so now I'm going to have to drill them out but obviously I have no replacements.. Very frustrating

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finish stripping the truck adding the rubber sealed bearings and re greasing as I go, fitted two 4000 brushless motors with 2 80 amp esc, fitted new servos as it only had front steering when I got it, fitted the 1inch wideners and running it with 2 batteries, all changed over to deans connectors

 

had a brief test run before coming in for few adjustments, its an animal, faster than I was expecting, torque twist not as bad as I expected but still bad, still pretty easy to roll and/or flip and the turning circle is still not great. amazed nothing broke yet tho

 

great fun

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turning circle is much better now iv adjust the rear steering to the correct position, my cheapy radio doesn't have 3ch trim function so had to do it manually

 

just running the standard suspension at the moment as havnt sorted some of those gmade piggybacks yet, still undecided whether I want to do away with the cantilever or not, the torque steer although rather impractical is highly amusing

 

definitely rolls a lot.. think stiffing up the suspension will help a lot, and the other main problem I think is because the tyres have no inserts they squash a lot under hard steer and it really throws the centre of gravity over, before it being delivered I had envisaged putting something in them but I discovered they were already glued on, I suspect if I try to get them off I will Fthem up and don't fancy buying new ones

 

I also need to come up with some sort of Velcro system if im going to stick to the two batteries

 

there is some times a mild grinding noise when attempting to set of (goes away if release the trigger and then go again) im thinking this is possibly the esc's occasionally not running completely in synch??

 

how big a difference do lipos make?? worth the hundred quid to get a charger and couple batteries??? 

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You might try taping over the breather holes in the wheels. I have beadlocks that form a pretty well airtight seal so the tyres act more like full size ones and don't "squish".

 

I'm assuming you're using sensorless motors so the grinding will be cogging. Sensorless brushless motors aren't always in sync when they start up and it can take a moment before they fall into sync. Without sensors the ESCs have no way of knowing what the position of the rotor in the motor is. Hence the difference between sensored and sensorless motors. Can't really get rid of it, however it can be kept to a minimum if you use LiPos with their slightly higher voltage.

 

LiPos don't just give a higher voltage. They have more punch as they can put out more amperage when you start off. Makes a noticeable difference. Couple of 5600mah 2s LiPos and a charger can be had for

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Tape was a good suggestion mate certainly stops them instantly compressing, if tape all the holes tho it lets some air out but not back in so they stay compressed so think I may try sealing the inner holes with glue and leaving the outside ones open, hopefully will improve it but still leave a bit of travel in them and not make it all too stiff.

 

seem to have an issue with one of the rod ends coming off on lower arms, think may have messed the thread up on the rod during disassemble and re assemble. any one point me in the right direction to get some decent replacements for the rods and the ends?? may try to bodge it back together for time being as it definitely needs playing with more, certainly not a shelf queen

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I had intended to put inserts in but they are very well glued on...

 

yea going to only block some in hope of finding a good balance between not being too solid and bouncing and not being too soft and throwing the truck over

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Wondering if whomever built it put some extra breather holes in the wheels. On my Clod tyre compression isn't a problem and it just has the stock wheels.

I've found superglue seems to do a good job on loose rod ends. Doesn't take much on the thread. Doesn't so much glue the rod ends on as fill out the worn thread. I'm looking for some replacement rod ends myself. Not that I need them right away but I know the stock ends will wear. Tried some Traxxas M4 ends but the balls in the ends didn't allow enough angle. Bad design as normally using some cone washers will allow extra angle but not with these Traxxas ends. Angled M4 ends would be perfect.

John

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