JBowers270 Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 My new electric combo arrived today (tenshock sc411 and 120a hobbywing sc pro) and as this will be first soldering job thought I'd just check a few things. First, both the motor and esc have wires pre soldered. Would it be best to unsolder one and not use a connection or just solder in a connecter (I've got 4mm bullets I can use). If unsoldering is this easy and which one is best to do it on (can't see bare wire on motor so guess at esc?) Secondly, wiring the bullets (as will at least need this for battery), what are the little holes in the side of the connectors for? And is it just shrink wrap that holds the wire in place in the red casing? Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Allen Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 If you plan on changing the motor often, then you could install connectors between the motor and ESC. If it is going to be a more or less permanent installation, then solder it direct. Use the solder posts on the ESC to solder to, don't try removing the wires from the motor. As far as the connectors go, I haven't used that type before. I expect you thread the wire through the plastic casing and then solder into the ends of the bullets before pulling the wire and connector into place. The holes don't do anything except maybe make it easier for solder to flow. But are you sure you want that kind of bullet connector? What connector does your LiPo have on it? Normally they have either bullet sockets or a Deans as standard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBowers270 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Thanks. The connectors I've got spare are the same bullet sockets as on my lipos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex97 Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 I would unsolder the wire from the ESC and solder the motor directly to the ESC. How are your soldering skills? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBowers270 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Basic! Soldered a few things in the past, nothing on the car, but never unsoldered. Is there a trick to it or just heat around the join and slowly pull / remove old solder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Allen Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 You need to heat the joint until the solder flows and the wire comes away easily. If you "tin" the tip of the iron with a small amount of solder it will make the heat transfer better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deafty Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 (edited) +1 whatever you do. DO NOT CUT THE WIRES ON THAT MOTOR! IM0: improve your soldering skills with something that doesn't matter 1st. and or use connectors to the esc. Last thing u want is too destroy your new ESC desoldering is easy with the correct iron, just don't forget u need a little solder on the tip for heat transfer. you don't want the soldering tip to be heating the metal for longer then 6-7 sec. Once u see the solder melt it'll just come loose on it'S own,. no need for pulling yanking or the likes. NB:// practice makes perfect. But please do use 63/37 solder with a rosin core flux + extra rosin core flux. Makes it super easy What iron and or station are u using? Edited July 22, 2014 by Deafty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBowers270 Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Cheers guys Not sure on the make of the iron, 60w. Had it a little while but rarely used. Gonna have to Google what you put there about rosin and flux to make sense of it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 I wouldn't unsolder that ESC, I think you'll be binning it soon after. There are no solder posts for a reason. Get some bullets, female on the ESC side. 4, 5.5, 6 or 6.5mm. The cables on the motor look like the flexible type, if they're bendy, they can be shortened, but keep all three the same length. The cables from the ESC can be shortened. Again, keep them at identical lengths. Don't make anything too short, you might want to move the combo to another model at some point. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBowers270 Posted July 23, 2014 Author Share Posted July 23, 2014 All the soldering is done! Went for the option of not cutting or desoldering anything and will just cable tie the excess lead. All looks to be working, just got to wait until tomorrow to pick up the pinion to give it a proper test now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninjagaiden Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 Also, remember not to spin up a brushless motor to max power without any load on the motor. There's a risk you'll put too many rpms on the rotor and damage it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBowers270 Posted July 24, 2014 Author Share Posted July 24, 2014 Arse - ordered the wrong pinion and the one I need seems to be out of stock... patient wait for another few weeks. Grr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 bit late but i use those connectors the bullets just click into place by pushing them into the red casing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Light875 Posted July 24, 2014 Share Posted July 24, 2014 Just to chime in with a bit of info; The holes in the side of the connectors are witness holes, they are used to see if the conductor is correctly seated inside the connector before and after the termination is made permanent through soldering or crimping. Not really needed for this kind of application, but essential when dealing with high tolerance systems that demand minimal losses in connections ( such as Aviation Electronics / Electrics ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arron99 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Just got some 4mm bullet connectors. I thought you pushed the bare wires through the plastic cover, soldered then pulled back the wires and they clicked into position. On the connectors I have that just isnt possible. The diameter of the smaller hole on the cover is smaller than the actual bullet so they cannot be pulled back through. I tried pushing them from the back, a lot less practical. This worked for the bigger diameter and it clicked in. The smaller one though still won't go. And that pushing them in with a screwdriver. Way more force than could be applied if soldered up. Am I being an idiot and missing something really obvious here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBowers270 Posted August 19, 2014 Author Share Posted August 19, 2014 Have you got any pics? What you were expecting to have to do sounds right. Have you definitely got the cover the right way around (ie male cover over male bullet)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arron99 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 On the right is a connector off a hobbyking battery. I changed it to deans for a quick fix but i'm reinstating the bullet connectors. In the middle you can see the larger side allowing the bullet in and the smaller side not. The left one assembled in reverse is just to highlight the problem. Hope that makes sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Light875 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 In the last picture it looks like the contacts have a small shoulder just after the solder cup. Makes me think they should be pushed into the sleeves from the other side. Once they are in they will click into place. Solder the, on first though as once they are located they might not easily come back out again. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arron99 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 The larger side will click in that way but the smaller still won't, and that's pushing it with a screwdriver. I'd have to heat the cover with the heatgun to have any chance. I'm so glad I bought 20 pairs of backwards connectors, ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Light875 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Just noticed that in the first picture you've got the contacts lined up with the wrong sleeve. Have you tried them both ways? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arron99 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 I used the hobbyking battery one as being correct. Are they known for putting them on anyway they like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Light875 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Dunno. I'd have to have them in hand to be sure how they should be assembled as I've never used these myself. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arron99 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Right with the persuader (hammer) Its clicked in the smaller side. With the wires soldered in though I'll never be able to get that much force on it from directly behind the bullet. Thinking I should look for the normal type ones you pull back through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Light875 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 Can you get them back out again now? If you can you might find they click in easier second time around. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arron99 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 After in and out a few times its still too stiff to be use-able. A 5.5mm drill up the back and it seems ok, reasonable force is needed then. Still a ball ache for what should be a simple job. Thanks for the help people Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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