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One more ST brushless conversion.


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tbf, If it served you well for 3 years and other than this you’ve been happy with it then no reason to go other brand especially if mounting holes fits, I’m sticking to hobao original for now means mine is available so if you want one PM and I can send it to you for cost of shipping

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11 hours ago, Nickarla said:

That’s shoddy if it is. No need for that to happen. They should either discard or stop at the end of the last mould.

 

It's part and parcel of plastic moulding processes. It's a necessary evil and is generally placed in a non-structural area but has good structural integrity. 

 

It's reliant on the pressure, flow rate and temperature of the plastic moulding machine. It is variable and the first shots of the tools will always have a more pronounced weld line. 

 

It's quite a complex calculation and requires specialist software to accurately work out. 

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My 'Castle' motor has arrived from China, looks good and feels nice. The truck has been dispatched. I need to start ordering bits to finish it off. 

 

What gearing would people recommend for 4S, 220KV (4274)? 

 

I am also going to order some more oil diff and shock oils to play with balance. 

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2 hours ago, Nathanio said:

My 'Castle' motor has arrived from China, looks good and feels nice. The truck has been dispatched. I need to start ordering bits to finish it off. 

 

What gearing would people recommend for 4S, 220KV (4274)? 

 

I am also going to order some more oil diff and shock oils to play with balance. 

i would start with 15/16T for 4s, then on 6s you'll want to drop down to 13/12t. 

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8 hours ago, Kukynas said:

 

what size of the spur? 

 

52T

 

6 hours ago, Jumper said:

i would start with 15/16T for 4s, then on 6s you'll want to drop down to 13/12t. 

 danke

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Thinking of using 80k, 100k, 30k oil in the diffs. I remember trying 7/10/3k in my hyper 7 and it ballooned like crazy. I vaguely remember swapping to much higher diff weights. 

 

Managed to break a rear driveshaft on the Stampede again tonight. Can't wait to get the hyper running!

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nvln-05NzeyTL8fPTVXP3sYFa39bqaPz721gohEd

 

Here she is ready to be converted. 

 

I've removed the motor, fuel tank and exhaust stay this morning. I am going to replace the shocks with my RC8T shocks as the springs feel softer on the supplied shocks. The front end is very soft and doesn't rebound well. 

 

One of the shock screws in the arm won't come out, tried applying pressure to the back of screw to try and help ease it out. I have ordered a set of new arms as a precaution. I also bought a new set of turnbuckles as one of the steering rod ends looks a little cut up in places

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XTRhHkR2Gd5Cqnyd6bMgUVEFGXMg1JN63zzHaZcP

 

Does anybody know what shocks these are from:

 

Edited by Nathanio
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On 12/07/2019 at 06:38, Nathanio said:

 

 

Here she is ready to be converted. 

 

I've removed the motor, fuel tank and exhaust stay this morning. I am going to replace the shocks with my RC8T shocks as the springs feel softer on the supplied shocks. The front end is very soft and doesn't rebound well. 

 

One of the shock screws in the arm won't come out, tried applying pressure to the back of screw to try and help ease it out. I have ordered a set of new arms as a precaution. I also bought a new set of turnbuckles as one of the steering rod ends looks a little cut up in places

 

 

 

Does anybody know what shocks these are from:

 

the shock screws on one side have a reversed threads, to loosen it you need to turn it the opposite way.

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Got my tray sorted, with foam blocks glued in now so they arent loose. Had to get am arrma strap as it was the only one that was long enough from modelsport, its much thinner than the old straps, so i put it in the middle so it has less stress on it.

IMG_20190715_161226.jpg

IMG_20190715_161326.jpg

IMG_20190715_161321.jpg

IMG_20190715_161233.jpg

 

Also drill 2 extra holes on the esc tray to bolt the max6 down :D 

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I just took the side guard off and seen this. Possible battery tray died because chassis = banana 

IMG_20190715_171934.jpg?width=1202&heigh

IMG_20190715_171930.jpg?width=1202&heigh

Edited by Jumper
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11 minutes ago, Jumper said:

I just took the side guard off and seen this. Possible battery tray died because chassis = banana 

IMG_20190715_171934.jpg?width=1202&heigh

IMG_20190715_171930.jpg?width=1202&heigh

 

Seems like, for some reason I thought you had alu brace from Pro version 🤔

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2 minutes ago, Kukynas said:

 

Seems like, for some reason I thought you had alu brace from Pro version 🤔

I do have the chassis braces from the pro version. I snapped the old ones if you look back a few pages :D Good job i have a spare chassis, although i didn't think i would ever need it. :lol: maybe i need to buy a full pro front and rear end as well. The problem is i have half the pro bits already but not all of them. I cannot recommend getting a pro to start with enough to anyone who wants to send there truck into the air like me. Its well worth the extra. To buy all the bits separately as they break has cost a fair bit. I was lucky because mine already had all the pro drive shafts and cnc knuckles when i got it. I have bought all the hinge pin holder and the cnc chassis braces. never broken a shock tower though, the plastic towers are extremely durable. 

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20 minutes ago, Jumper said:

I do have the chassis braces from the pro version. I snapped the old ones if you look back a few pages :D Good job i have a spare chassis, although i didn't think i would ever need it. :lol: maybe i need to buy a full pro front and rear end as well. The problem is i have half the pro bits already but not all of them. I cannot recommend getting a pro to start with enough to anyone who wants to send there truck into the air like me. Its well worth the extra. To buy all the bits separately as they break has cost a fair bit. I was lucky because mine already had all the pro drive shafts and cnc knuckles when i got it. I have bought all the hinge pin holder and the cnc chassis braces. never broken a shock tower though, the plastic towers are extremely durable. 

 

I see now, sorry I’m blind 😀 so the ST version has weaker chassis then Pro? Coz I never heard about bent Pro chassis or you really enjoyed your last jumping session 😂

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43 minutes ago, Kukynas said:

 

I see now, sorry I’m blind 😀 so the ST version has weaker chassis then Pro? Coz I never heard about bent Pro chassis or you really enjoyed your last jumping session 😂

i guess so. they are different part numbers. i guess its 6061 vs 7075 or something like that. 

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It'll also be CNC from sheet rather than cast. This is stronger than cast pieces as you use a different grade material.

 

I've started the conversion on mine, rear end is off and will be stripped tomorrow for fluid refill. I have drained and refilled the TA shocks with 60wt oil. They have TiNi shafts but may need stiffer springs. 

 

New servo saver from ST pro and turnbuckles for steering to go on. I have my battery tray but need to work out how to raise it to clear the side guard. 

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2 hours ago, Nathanio said:

It'll also be CNC from sheet rather than cast. This is stronger than cast pieces as you use a different grade material.

 

I've started the conversion on mine, rear end is off and will be stripped tomorrow for fluid refill. I have drained and refilled the TA shocks with 60wt oil. They have TiNi shafts but may need stiffer springs. 

 

New servo saver from ST pro and turnbuckles for steering to go on. I have my battery tray but need to work out how to raise it to clear the side guard. 

i doubt the chassis is cast at all even the standard one, look machined tbh. 

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1 hour ago, Nathanio said:

Anyone tried the Team C / Abisma side guards?

I have mugen side guards on mine. 

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I've ordered a bunch of different side guards from eBay (a company called rc-waffle). All second hand but I can then work out which ones work best. It was Mugen, TA, Serpent and XRay. 

 

I've rebuilt all diffs now, fitted my motor mount (and added the third hole), fitted the new steering system and turnbuckles. I need to cut the radio tray, conformally coat the Rx, fit the battery tray, ESC, motor and better shock standoffs to work with the RC8T shocks I have

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