DoppleBanger Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 Got my RC10 running and it's a beast! I've trimmed the throttle curve and reduced the steering lock to 80% with some exponential on. However, it's very tail happy on lower grip surfaces. How can I dial out over-steer and make it more stable ? Dropping the nose seems to have helped, I'm waiting on a shock rebuild kit as the front damping seems very stiff I'm going to soften up the front (it's on green springs too - back silver) tips please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex97 Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 what surface are you running on, what tires are you using and are they warn? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 Firm at the front with a saggy rear end. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoppleBanger Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share Posted June 3, 2014 what surface are you running on, what tires are you using and are they warn? worn tires minispikes, on a loose gravelly tarmac surface with some moss. I'm using that surface to simulate a low grip wood floor which is what I'll be racing on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex97 Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 si coe is the best person to ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vrooom Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 soft rear spring with med/hard front spring on. with more thinner shock oil in rear than in front. maybe little more rear camber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Si Coe Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 As above. Specifically for an RC10 blue front springs, green or silver rears (depends) 35wt Front, 30/25 rear. Weight also helps - my B4 used to have some 60g of lead weights added around the base of the rear bulkhead to shift the weight balance to the right place. This is something people often get wrong as they assume racing cars need to be light. Actually the best B4's used to run big brass bulkheads to weigh the car down for more grip. Your test surface won't help BTW. Yes its just as low grip, but the way the car breaks traction will be totally different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex97 Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 On my b4 I had a massive bit of lead (100g+) over the servo that was taped down with electrical tap. It didn't look good but worked very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 I used about one hundred grams of lead, stuck where I could. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoppleBanger Posted June 4, 2014 Author Share Posted June 4, 2014 (edited) As above. Specifically for an RC10 blue front springs, green or silver rears (depends) 35wt Front, 30/25 rear. Weight also helps - my B4 used to have some 60g of lead weights added around the base of the rear bulkhead to shift the weight balance to the right place. This is something people often get wrong as they assume racing cars need to be light. Actually the best B4's used to run big brass bulkheads to weigh the car down for more grip. Your test surface won't help BTW. Yes its just as low grip, but the way the car breaks traction will be totally different. On my b4 I had a massive bit of lead (100g+) over the servo that was taped down with electrical tap. It didn't look good but worked very well. I used about one hundred grams of lead, stuck where I could. Thanks useful posts, I've started changing the springing over and will go with the damping recommendations when I get my shock rebuilding kit. I've ordered some lead weights and double sided tape, and 4 scales so I can balance the car left to right and front to back the way i want. Also the battery is a shorty and I've put it to the front of the battery compartment. Any of you guys run a rear anti roll bar ? What TOE IN/OUT and camber do you guy run on the front for low grip surfaces ? Edited June 4, 2014 by DoppleBanger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NuttyProfessor Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 2wd should be toe in on the rear so as it accelerates, should push them straight if that makes sense, id say dead straight or toe out slightly to keep the front end stable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattr Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 Check on petit rc for set ups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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