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Gutted!


liamb2387

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So today was meant to be the first proper out with the car with me and my brother in law. Buying the car was a joint venture. He's yet to see it. Got it all packed up in the car with every thing i might need only to get there and find the the glow plug has blown (no spares yet)

Took it out yesterday for a test run and tuned it the best I could. Although iv learnt loads in the last couple of weeks, I'm still very much a beginner.

At one point there was steam coming from the engine. Is this me tuning it badly that's caused it to blow? How can I prevent it happening so quickly again?

To be fair, its a second hand car. The glow plug could of been an old one.

Wish model shops near me were open on a Sunday!!

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Was the car brand new ? Or pre-owned ? If its new keep it rich and follow the break in procedure. Glow plugs blow during break in or for any other number of reasons.

 

But yes, if you richen it up it will cool it down.

 

Where was the smoke coming from ?

 

If it was coming from around the engine block it could be oil or spilled fuel burning off. If it was comming from inside the engine, for sure, richen it up. If anything check the manufacturer website for factory needle settings and start over.

Edited by Huktonfonics
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Just to make sure you tuned it right-

 

1. HSN, tune it so you get good speed on straights, but make sure there is still a little bit of smoke coming out. As you drive more and more, you will feel if it is too rich or too lean. (If your GP keeps blowing this means it might be too lean, check for a nice trail of smoke.)

 

2. LSN, there are three tests for this: the pinch test (almost useless), the stand/go test, and the accel test. To do the stand/go test warm your car up and let it idle for 30 seconds, then pull on your trigger- if the engine quits by revving up, it is too lean. On the other hand, if it quits by bogging, it is too rich.

The accel test is an extra bit to the stand/go test, so after you get the engine to take off ok, do it again, and look at the accel. If it is slow, it is slightly too rich, if it starts to cut out, it is too lean.

 

3 idle, re-tune this every once in a while, keep in mind your throttle trim. 

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Cheers for the in depth answers. I'm going to try this out today. After I get some new plugs. The reason I didn't realise I was running too lean is because I still had a trail of smoke, but I think thats down to the fuel I'm using (optifuel 20%) I was slightly unsure how to check the lsn, but iv got something to go with now with behappys post. Let's hope I don't blow the new plugs.

Also, the cars a 2nd hand one

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Since getting the new glow plugs, iv been trying to start the engine. Been messing about with it for about 3 hours. Every time I manage to start the car it flies off with out me pulling the trigger. If I brake, the engine stalls immediately. If I adjust the throttle trim to close it a bit, it won't start at all. I'm running out of patients. I gone back to factory settings. The new glow plugs are the only ones the shop had in stock, quikfire warms

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Yes. As you have found some fuels can be smokey and the engine can be too lean....and also some fuels can give off little/no smoke but still be on the rich side. 

Try to listen to the sound of the engine (albeit hard if you do not know what you are listening for).

Whilst it obviously makes sense to only turn the needle (say HSN) a small amount at a time to fine tune it, it can also be beneficial to make larger turns to distinguish the sound of lean/rich and to build a knowledge of where the point of correct will be.

 

So if we start the engine (with rich settings) and get it warmed up for a minute or two then do one full throttle/high rpm run we know it is rich, then lean the HSN 1/4 of a turn and another flat out run...Repeat the process until you have gone too far and each time listen to the different sound. (Notes- Of course do not persist with full throttle if the engine is struggling, no need to do runs a mile long, you may need to be gentle opening the throttle to get to high rpm if LSN is very rich).

 

Now you should know both what lean/rich can sound like and know that the correct mixture will be within X turns of the needle.

Always warm the engine before trying to tune, keep an eye on the fuel level, always richen up a bit from the optimum performance.

 

 

In response to your above post (that came whilst typing)-

If the plug is not correct then you will struggle.

The idle screw should always control the minimum idle speed so when applying brakes the throttle should not close to a point of stalling the engine.

If the LSN is lean then the engine will rev high.

 

Set everything rich with a throttle gap of 1mm. Start-warm-set HSN first and then LSN....when adjusting LSN you may have to adjust the idle speed.

 

Stick with it...it should all come together in the end. :)

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Idle adjustment includes the throttle trim and idle screw mainly, but can the LSN can also play a big role. 

 

To solve your idle problem-

 

1. Remove the air filter, so you can see the idle gap

2. Tune your throttle servo using your transmitter, just make sure that the idle gap is the smallest it goes (you dont want it to get          smaller when you apply the brakes!

3. Assuming that your other needles are tuned correctly, adjust the idle screw so that the engine runs ok at idle. (Make sure you        put your AF back on at this point!!) 

4. Re adjust the throttle trim so that it it is in the middle, and doesn't change the idle gap.

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The heat range of a plug is VERY important.

 

In simple terms, they control the ignition timing. Your engine is basically a 2 stroke layout, so the port timing is fixed. The inlet/exhaust always open at the same point on the stroke of the piston or rotation of the crank.

 

What the plug varies is how quickly the mixture gets ignited. A hotter plug will ignite the mix sooner than a cooler one. If the coil in the glowplug is too hot, you can get pre-ignition, where the mix is burning before the piston gets past top dead centre. Bad news. Too cool, and the piston is past TDC and you lose power.

 

Your fuel mixture will also affect how well the mixture burns....so if you are way too rich, a hot plug may get it started....but once things get up to temperature...it will not be happy. Using hte correct grade plug for your engine is actually a very important thing. A lot of people opt for a 'middle of the road' plug, which will give reasonable performance in most conditions... but racers will take a range of plugs and vary it for optimal performance.

 

Now...as far as setup goes....

 

I always start with the idle gap. Set to 1mm, and adjust the linkage so it has a bit of slack at fully closed and no trim on the transmitter. The stop screw should ensure it does not close when you brake. No point in going further without that correct.

 

Next thing...I can't see if you mentioned the car you have...but that is important. Mainly so we know what engine you are running. Big block and small block engines run best with different plugs and fuel.

 

If you have LSN and HSN at factory settings, you should have a stable idle....if all is well. Otherwise you potentially have an air leak somewhere. The factory setting for hSN is very rich....so once you have a stable idle...you would then look to tune that to the best setting. Listen to the motor ( it should never sound 'frantic' or sound stuttery on the over-run ) . Then you can tweak the LSN if it needs it. The idle may creep up as you lean off the HSN, or you may have poor pickup. Keep the adjustments small and run between changes long enough to clean through any surplus fuel. Very important if you are leaning off an engine.... you don;t want to find out that it was only running rich due to a build up fuel in the crankcases....

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How glow plugs are labelled can be misleading at times and I have not used the QuikFire plugs but as the one you have seems to be the hottest (?) then that is not going to help at all.

 

Ideally you want a colder plug of standard length for the MacStar .28....the manual recommends RB 6 and McCoy MC-9...I have used McCoy in the .28 and yes it will work fine if you can get them easily. There are a load of other plugs that will be fine that I have used...NovaRossi C6S...OS 8 + (note this is a short plug but will work fine and is common)...Fireball Super Cool (this is the cheapest of any of the plugs mentioned and available here- http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/Product_Category/Nitro/U2848.html )

 

Mick should get you up and running in no time. :)

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