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TW's Bajas - "Sheila", "Ruby", & "Kyu"


Thunderwolf

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busy working out how to do the video atm so going to be a bit of a wait lads

 

 

in the mean time i got a few more pictures to show you guys.

 

 

first is a better shot of the esc and motor, the motor wires are cable tired to a part of the castle conversion (the bit that replaces one of the engine mounts) as well as the rear shock tower, keeps them form flapping about and give plenty of room around the cooling fans (which are stupidly loud)

DSC08864.jpg

 

 

this is where the gp pro fits inside the cage for the 1st person view, it fairly far back so it doesn't hit the cage, which will flex a bit in a roll, so should be well protected and i can drive as normal without having to consider the idea of it getting damaged in a crash.

DSC08865.jpg

 

 

 

there will be some pictures of Sheila coming up sometime this week

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Spent a fair while removing the engine out of my baby, Sheila...i love this old girl.

 

DSC08869.jpg

 

i can't work or run her a lot anymore due to being stored in my mums garage (not going back to my days of having her in my room stinking the place out with fuel)

 

but anyway, engine removed fairly easy, not a single issue there.

 

no it not going brushless as well, i replaced it with the oddified engine from Revy (My marder), need to find out more about this engine, i found Revy had a 2 shoe adjustable clutch which i was unaware/forgot about, only when the clutch bell was removed the pads fell out in little bits, i kept the clutch, i may buy new shoes and run it on sheila.

 

considering changing my cpi big bore exhaust for something else, although i'm not sure what right now, fancy giving a jet pro a try but we'll see

DSC08872.jpg

 

the Pitdawg Hydro gear cover has seen better days, the clear coat and film has started coming off.

DSC08870.jpg

 

these are all the photos i got due to my camera  running out of battery.

 

 

EDIT: i almost forgot, anyone who is killswitch crazy will be happy to know that the baja now has her first ever killswitch, only taken 4.5 years.

Edited by Thunderwolf
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something i didn't think of until just now with ruby, when i started this build i was a 30 second walk from a nice large field in which i could run her.

 

since then though i have moved and now the best place to run my cars is a 15min walk, enough to warrant a back pack for my 1/8th buggy and smaller cars, 15 min walk with a baja on my shoulder/back isn't going to be pleasant...this is a problem lol

 

 

also my idea of making a thread has failed me, because i started some bits before making a thread, like the diff for example got stripped for fitting the dark soul tubez, i got asked what wt oil i used to which i said 7k, but i've just found a bottle of 30k and now can't be sure whats in Ruby or Sheila

 

since doing the diff in Ruby i rebuilt the one in sheila, which was using 7k before rebuild, the 30k oil bottle has can only have filled one diff judging by how full it is.

 

so the big question, did i put the 30k in Ruby when i built her, and rebuild the diff in Sheila with my normal 7k

 

or did i fill the diff in Ruby with the thickest oil i had at the time (7k) and bought a 30k oil for Sheila because i though 7k was too thin....

Edited by Thunderwolf
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had some time and a recent conversation with someone got me thinking so i tried something out

 

 

so ruby went from off road:

DSC08894.jpg

 

 

 

to on road ride height

DSC08895.jpg

 

 

a task that took 20mins to do, is really easy, and helps with an idea i've had playing in my head for a little while.

 

i have since returned her to off road set up.

 

i'm thinking the shocks may need some thicker oil in them as well but i'll wait until i run her a bit, let everything bed in some

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  • 2 weeks later...

still not run the flux yet, after all the time its taken to build her and get her running, i now don't want to get her dirty (i said "her" a lot in that)

 

 

although that said, i've been thinking of several ideas, one of which i think is both possible and worth trying out, but it will mean making another part in cad and having it printed out.

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new addition to the ruby colour theme.

 

mud brown:

DSC08915.jpg

 

 

Important note before i continue, the remainder of this post is based from just the first 5 minutes of driving the car, it shows nothing more than my very first thoughts, they are very open to change through continued use. don't think into my comments too deeply, i haven't used the car nearly enough to form any form of solid or practical opinions on running what is essentially a highly upgraded brushless large scale rc that i have had 2 years of thinking about and planning put into it. i also may start rambling, so you have been warned.

 

 

car turned on as it has at home, no drama, few slowish runs, get a bit of a feel for the power delivery, let the gears, bearing and stuff get into their running positions and stuff, nothing heavy.

 

i'm very much used to running a baja with an engine sound, first thing i noticed is how much more you notice other part making a sound as you are running, like the sound of the shock limiters snapping tight as the suspension drops, but it was a different feeling to drive a fairly large car with a different sound track to it.

 

another thing i noticed is the handling, partly because i forgot to wind down the shock collar on the rears after trying out my slammed look idea, resulting in a rather drooped looking, chassis slapping rear end.

DSC08919.jpg

 

 

the lack of engine weight at the back is also very noticeable i thought, mostly front the way she was able to grip roll, but that may also be down to the current shock set up.

 

as for the leccy side of it the power is interesting, albeit under whelming in its delivery. there is certainly scope for improvement, be that gearing or more volts, shall see, too early to tell really.

 

i did do some very small jumps (nothing more than 1 or 2 feet in height) which proved fairly standard going minus the thud from the loose rear end i was running with.

 

speed isn't amazing, kinda like a 26cc engine with a mid decent pipe on it with the low end of a 23cc rtr, it was enough to drive around but certainly nothing that could drop my jaw in awe, which i didn't expect anyway so no big thing to worry about.

 

so currently not a bad go, the motor shifted on a landing, which shaved abit of plastic from the hostile spur, the pinion was also loose, enough to be able to turn the motor but i could pull it off the shaft without having to try.

DSC08918.jpg

 

DSC08917.jpg

 

i hasn't blown me away but i've not been put off either, its a new car, first run, you never expect to get a perfect run, i got something to work with now, so a play with gearing and shock set up is in order and a few more run before i draw any solid conclusions.

 

 

there will be a rough video, nothing overly interesting, i ended up turning it off after the first few mins as i was too busy focusing on the car to be pointing a camera as well, i'll upload it later on.

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Pinion tightened back onto the motor shaft.

 

motor positioned back in place

 

57t spur replaced with a 54t spur

 

rear shock pre-load collars lowered 15mm

 

 

may also need to thicken the shock oil but i'll see how this goes first. current oils are 40wt front and 5 wt rear (aka the stock setup for the rtr hpi baja)

 

Underwhelmed??

Get back out on 7s and rag the pants off her!! ;)

Important note before i continue, the remainder of this post is based from just the first 5 minutes of driving the car, it shows nothing more than my very first thoughts

 

Edited by Thunderwolf
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i know i said there would be a video but the file is becoming an issue, i can't edit it to be smaller than it is and the attempts that have resulted in an unwatchable mess.

 

spent the last 2 days trying to sort it out but nothing doing, and i'm done, so you will all have to wait until i finish filming and editing the video i'll be putting on TWR

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Here is an idea of how much use Ruby got before the motor shifted

 

each of the 3s batteries were at 4.05 - 4.10 volts per cell.

 

the 2s li-fe battery was at 3.45 volts per cell

 

so yea... didn't run for long lol

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well it was a beautiful day today so i figured i'd get Ruby out for a drive, partly because i wanted to see what my small changed had done, mostly because she is the only rc i have access to that still runs.

DSC08931.jpg

 

i also had my MSUK hat with me to keep the sun out of my eyes and my eyes on the car.

DSC08932.jpg

 

also adjusted the strap a little bit which made it much more comfortable to have on my shoulder for the 20min walk, although i think i may be able to work out away to get on my bike with it without it getting in the way, which would mean a faster transit time which would be great.

 

i did have my camera again (hopefully it did screw up like last time) but i put it on the car this time, rear facing at first, 1st person later on, meant i could run the car without being distracted about the camera being pointed in the right place.

 

the run went much better this time around after a small issue getting going, it would seem my RX switch is busted, needing to be pushed down to power it up, seems the vibrations on a cheap switch has made it loosen and become useless, so i took the battery over out and unplugged the switch and plugged the battery in directly, wasn't happy with it but it was better than another 20min walk on a shoulder that already hurt without giving a bit of rest.

 

the car runs much better, putting the pre-load back onto the rear shocks certainly helped the handling, also did a fair few jumps, 2 or 3 fairly large jumps too, covering around 6feet i height and a distance of about 20 feet, couple rolls.

 

the 14/55 gearing has infact worked out very well imo, it still not silly fast, but it is fast enough to be interesting, there is abit of cogging on take off, little more than i would like so i think a 14/56 gearing would be better in that respect as the motor was getting quite hot, not such an issue as is but thats going to become a problem when i got upto 8s, i'd loose abit of speed but with 8s i don't think i'll care too much lol

 

i had afew kids and their mother watching from the start which was fine to begin with and they started to get on my nerves, it was attracting a fair old crowd and the kids had started riding the bikes around the same area and it was stating to get too hectic, i decided to quit before someone screwed up or did something stupid and just as i was think about doing one last jump the choice was made for me.

 

as i came over a hill i noticed a sudden power drop and then watching a rear wheel nut fall off shortly followed by the rear wheel, being bright red the wheel nut was easy to find, quick look of it showed about half of the thread had stripped, not sure how much of the thread gets used when fully tight but its stripped enough for me not to want to run it like it, wasn't sure on the whole plastic wheel nut thing and i think them thoughts have been justified at this point so i shall replace them with some classic metal wheel nuts when i can afford to do so. the other rear wheel nut was also loose, however the fronts are still solid.

DSC08933.jpg

 

the wheel came of under power so on its way off the wheel hex took some damage, about half of it has taken damage but its only the very end thats been destroyed so it should be ok to run it as it is, the bigger concern is the amount of heat i felt in the drive shafts and hexes, i'm putting it down to everything still being fairly new (had around 20-25 mins run time total so far) and so it generating some heat from the diff and bearings, i'm expecting it to get better as thing start bedding in and loosening up but i will be keeping an eye on it all the same.

DSC08934.jpg

 

so that was the end of play time, put the wheel and nut back on and carried her home, as i took the nut and wheel off to take the above pics something unexpected happened.

 

 

the other rear wheel fell off onto the floor, turn out i've lost the drive pin that goes through the hex and axle, how it didn't fall off before then i have no idea, but yea, i need to replace it, or find it at the park, i'm guessing this was the real cause of the power loss, doesn't hurt to look.

 

 

 

so list of things to do:

 

replace wheel nuts
change spur gear (when i can / when i go 8s)

thicker oil in rear shocks

new drive pin (buy new / bodge / find)

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