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TW's Bajas - "Sheila", "Ruby", & "Kyu"


Thunderwolf

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Looks very well executed TW, motor spacer is a neat addition.

730kv and 6s should be a nice combination, lots of torque available. What gearing have you opted for?

 

6s is mainly because i want to test the esc out before going full on nuts with it, it will also help me learn the control of the leccy version of a baja without having too much speed.

 

aswell as being able to dial in the settings better and the handling controlled before adding more speed into the mix.

 

 

in terms of gearing i'm sticking to the 17t pinion that came with the castle kit and the  57t hostile spur gear i got fitted, and shall see how it goes and change the gears from there to better suite the car.

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maybe but it is a new car, i don't want to push it too hard right from the word go, i had sheila about a year before i started the silly jumps so this will be no different.

 

 

 

once the car is sorted its simply a case or setting it all up, getting the shocks sorted out, diff with the right oil and so on, generaly just making sure i built it correctly.

 

 

 

i have sorted out the battery issue, i should get them next week. i'm still waiting on the bec and battery connectors to arrive (hopefully also arriving next week)

 

only thing i really need to sort out is the esc plate. that will be enough to get everything mounted and running, at which point i'll start looking at other things such as windows and the gearing, basicly just making the car easy to run and maintain as i got most of what i think are the important upgrades already.

 

 

 

so happy Thunderwolf atm, although there is abit of sadness to the story, it taken almost 2 years (1 month short in fact) of buying part when i could to get her built up and it now coming to an end.

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She will reward you with smiles per mile aplenty, and that comes with the Noj guarantee ;)

As/when you fancy upping the pinny, I have a spare 16t which will add some pep... Our lasses, being mostly stock, has been superb in terms of parts longevity, diff and box show no wear, only the odd part in the upper ball ends that have worn naturally, the stock arms are straight...

The two most solid and reliable RCs we own, for their size, weight and ridicularse power; really missed them this year, strip, clean and rebuild over winter ready for 2015 :)

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ATC
H-Bomb - Silver

Castle Creations
Electric conversion kit

Darksoul
Billet Servo Saver - Silver
Tubez

DDM
HD Front Shock Springs - Chrome
HD Rear Shock Springs - Chrome

ESC
Turnigy Trackstar Sensorless 1/5th 200amp - 8s

GH Racing
Arm Brace - Silver
Front Shock Support - Silver
Front Tower Support - Silver
Rear Tower Support - Silver

Hemistorm
Hemi Cuffs - Silver
5b Bodyshell "The Addict"

HPI
HD Driveshafts
HD Idle Gear
HD Drive gear
HD Diff Gear

Hostile
Front Foams
Rear Foams - Zero Growth
Front MX Tyres
Rear MX Tyres
Spur Gear

Innovative RC
Enclosed Chassis - Red
V2 Rear Chassis - Red
V2 Front upper chassis plate - Red
Under Chassis Brace - Silver
Bearing kit
Screw kit
Hinge Pin Set
Rear Lower Arm Brace - Front - Silver
Rear Lower Arm Brace - Rear - Silver
Front Upper Arm Brace - Silver
Front Lower Arm Brace - Silver

Killer RC
Shock Limiters - Red

Motor
Sky RC Toro "Beast" X520 3Y 730kv

Silverback RC
Mercenary Front wheels - Black
Mercenary Rear Wheels - 5B - Black
Monkey Nuts - Red
Flat Inner Beadlock Ring - Red
Lipped Outter Beadlock Ring - V3 - Red

Turtle Racing
Front Shock Brace - Silver
Rear Shock Brace -Silver
Transmission Slug - Spike - Black

RPM
Sparkplug Cover
Front Bumper
Rear Bumper
Rear Skid Plate

Vertigo
Clipless/Boltless Front Stub Axles

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rough idea of the final position of the esc and the wires

 

DSC08701.jpg

 

 

 

got abit ocd on the wires though, yellow, blue, and orange heatshrink on the motor connectors and esc bothered me enough to cut them off, replacing the esc ones with black, and the motor wires with red....just so it looked in place with the rest of my colour theme...so...yea.

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Thats a good list of upgrades thanks, im still learning what's what and who to go with starting my own 2yr adventure but sticking to petrol im sure.

whats tubez? are they the cage release things. Or camber links.

Shock limiters why? I see shock limiters come up alot but i cant see the need.

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Thats a good list of upgrades thanks, im still learning what's what and who to go with starting my own 2yr adventure but sticking to petrol im sure.

whats tubez? are they the cage release things. Or camber links.

Shock limiters why? I see shock limiters come up alot but i cant see the need.

 

 

the tubez are metal rings that go around the diff cups and axles, over time the stock ones get pulled apart by the dog bones and eventually one side breaks off. the tubez stop that movement outward by basically joining to 2 sides together, the stock dog bone pins are a fraction too large and have to be ground down to fit, but they add a fair bit of strength to the driveline, good when you plan on running higher power engines.

 

 

the shock limiters do just that, limit the shocks, specifically it limits how far the suspension arms will drop. the stock shocks have less travel than the arms do, result of which is every time the car leaves the ground the piston in the shock slams into the bottom shock cap, this has a habit of damaging the piston aswell as the shock seals leading the shock to leak, it also put a fair bit of stress on the rod ends of the shocks which is half of the reason they break so often (ther other half being they arn't that strong to begin with), the limiters stop the travel of the arms just short of the over all travel of the shocks, stopping this from happening making the arms last longer

 

 

 

90% of the parts are front what i've learned from running Sheila, she has taken all the hits and broken the parts, taken the upgrades and even broken some of them, i've used what works, like the i-c chassis parts and hinge pins, right from the word go, may not be good or needed on a flux model but then again when i started building her i originally planned to put a twin cylinder engine in her, not an esc and motor.

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the tubez are metal rings that go around the diff cups and axles, over time the stock ones get pulled apart by the dog bones and eventually one side breaks off. the tubez stop that movement outward by basically joining to 2 sides together, the stock dog bone pins are a fraction too large and have to be ground down to fit, but they add a fair bit of strength to the driveline, good when you plan on running higher power engines.

 

 

the shock limiters do just that, limit the shocks, specifically it limits how far the suspension arms will drop. the stock shocks have less travel than the arms do, result of which is every time the car leaves the ground the piston in the shock slams into the bottom shock cap, this has a habit of damaging the piston aswell as the shock seals leading the shock to leak, it also put a fair bit of stress on the rod ends of the shocks which is half of the reason they break so often (ther other half being they arn't that strong to begin with), the limiters stop the travel of the arms just short of the over all travel of the shocks, stopping this from happening making the arms last longer

 

 

 

90% of the parts are front what i've learned from running Sheila, she has taken all the hits and broken the parts, taken the upgrades and even broken some of them, i've used what works, like the i-c chassis parts and hinge pins, right from the word go, may not be good or needed on a flux model but then again when i started building her i originally planned to put a twin cylinder engine in her, not an esc and motor.

 

An evil twin? Awwww Paul, now you ruined it with electrickery :tease:

Evil twin would be fun!

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  • 2 weeks later...

so, bit awkward to post this but i have to be truthful about it.

 

 

the batteries arrived, but, in my haste to buy them i made a small error, i had them in my wish list along with a battery i wanted to run in my hong nor buggy, and i bought the wrong one.

 

so the hong nor has a new battery, the 2nd is up for sale as i don't need it, as is the old battery from the hong nor.

 

 

bad things are i now don't have any batteries for Ruby and that i can't afford any for the time being, so once again she is stuck in the water.

 

 

 

on the other side, the battery connectors have arrived and the bec has also arrived, the pic below shows the set up, or atleast what will be the set up.

 

 

i need to work out placement of the wiring, idealy the bec with be in the battery box next to the rx so its protected, but the wires from the battery are near the back so i'll need to work out a suitable placment, or solder on some longer wires to the bec.

 

DSC08725.jpg

 

2nd thing i want to do is fit the bec with a switch so that its not constantly on, got a little plan in mind but i'm not sure it will work right now so will need to do abit of testing before i go along with it

Edited by Thunderwolf
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  • 2 weeks later...

The bec will only become live once packs are connected, so I query the need for an on/off switch personally.

Re the extended wiring, use some 2mm bullets on the bec wires and on the extenders, job done. Also means you could simply disconnect the bec if required, averting the need for a switch...

Pity about lack of a suitable power source for now :(

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The bec will only become live once packs are connected, so I query the need for an on/off switch personally.

Re the extended wiring, use some 2mm bullets on the bec wires and on the extenders, job done. Also means you could simply disconnect the bec if required, averting the need for a switch...

Pity about lack of a suitable power source for now :(

 

i need one because i don't run packs down in one hit, i tend to have more than one car and change between them often. plus i'm lazy, and flipping a switch will be easier than unplugging the wires once the windows are fitted.

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