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big turbo

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I ran an sh.26 p6 in both a savage and my mgt and it was a very nice motor, plenty of power and reliable. I did find the pullstart junk though and changed to a drill start backplate.

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The LRP.28, NosramRS.28, SH.28, Losi 454 are all made by the same company....Golden Lion...look at the engine casing and you can see.

Most of the SH.28 engines are 3 port engines....but I have never had one so can not comment on performance....but I can tell you that the Losi 454, the LRP.28 and the Nosram are all virtually identical other than engine timing differences.

I would choose the 454 as it seems to be abundant and...as mentioned the customs and postage could prove the killer.

Edited by Anthoop
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Cheers chaps. It not for me it's for a guy at works son who is 14 hence not wanting to spend to much. I will have a look around in the uk as don't want to get stuck with customs. I mite just go with the sh 28 but will see.

I'm going to have one last look at the engine it come with, a hong nor .25 but the compression is very low and having problems with the pin that sits in the gudgen pin that turns it over as it keeps falling out. It's all very worn but will see what I can do.

Thanks again. :-)

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If it came with the hong nor get the same brand to replace it thing is hong nor do sh and force engine all on eBay and cheap in the uk http://bit.ly/1cRBRU1

Edit just looked and it seems hong nor have dropped from using sh engines so I wouldn't get one if I was you stick with the force

Edited by fatboyneil
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Cheers chaps. It not for me it's for a guy at works son who is 14 hence not wanting to spend to much. I will have a look around in the uk as don't want to get stuck with customs. I mite just go with the sh 28 but will see.

I'm going to have one last look at the engine it come with, a hong nor .25 but the compression is very low and having problems with the pin that sits in the gudgen pin that turns it over as it keeps falling out. It's all very worn but will see what I can do.

Thanks again. :-)

I would expect replacing the pin and spring will fix one fault (the pin+ spring sit in the crank pin (the gudgeon pin holds the piston to the connecting rod)).

Most engines can be coaxed into life with a bit of this and that...but if there is too much wear then you are beating a dead horse with a stick...

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Yep I ment the crank pin, well spotted that man ;-)

Well it's all back together managed to find a better fitting pin that's about a 1mm longer so it's not so sloppy. and I'm off work tomorrow so will get the stick out and see what's what. Cheers

Edited by big turbo
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its not a .28  its a 4.1   = .25      but for the money its a good motor 

Edited by jea
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Yep I ment the crank pin, well spotted that man ;-)

Well it's all back together managed to find a better fitting pin that's about a 1mm longer so it's not so sloppy. and I'm off work tomorrow so will get the stick out and see what's what. Cheers

Hehe...good luck...let us know how it goes. :)

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Had two attempts at starting it for about 1-2 mins and the crapy starter drill go's flat It's on charge AGAIN now. No luck so far not even a hint of it wanting to fire up but I think it's down to this drill starting as it's only one 550 size motor and doesn't turn it over very quick.

Quick question how bad is the compression if you can not hold the engine at 90 degrees by the flywheel and it doesn't hold its own weight ?

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Going to bite the bullet and go for a new engine but as he needs a new battery for the rotor start too was now looking at the hpi engine linked

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-nitro-star-f4.1-engine-with-pullstart/rc-car-products/24584

Any one got one or know what there like ?

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Quick question how bad is the compression if you can not hold the engine at 90 degrees by the flywheel and it doesn't hold its own weight ?

I realise that the "hold own weight" thing is popular....but I have a different veiw ( :whistling: ).

Even a well worn engine will complete the test if it has enough fuel/oil in the bore...and also...an engine that may be perfectly useable can fail the test.

Essentially the combustion chamber should be "sealed" at operating speeds and temperature and what happens outside of those boundaries is insignificant. If you have the piston,rod and sleeve in your hand and you can push the piston through the sleeve then 9/10 it is too far gone and will need new p/s or pinching.

 

Most engines will at least fire even when they are totally kerplunked....so I do wonder if there is some issue.

 

That engine you linked (above) is mighty cheap...if they are prepared to go for that, then I think you will not get a much better deal. If you want someone to take a look at the other engine then send me a PM.

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To be honest I just don't no what to do now, all the obvious seems ok. back to stock needle setting, new plug (os8). fuel getting to carb, all sealed up so no air leaks The compression is really bad you can turn it over via the flywheel with one figer quite easily hence why I think it's a compression issue. He's more than happy to go for that engine for 50 quid, rather than put money into this engine.

Thanks for your help really do appreciate it.

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