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The Pink Panther:Clone Sakura D3 CS OP build.

Yoshimoto

By Yoshimoto
in On-Road & Drifting

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Sam E Newbie

Sam E

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Looking good mate! Mine arrived on Tuesday and I've fitted the tensioner and FOW so far. I can't continue with anything until fit the motor but I need to know the size of the spur. I was hoping you could help? Could you also tell me what pinion you run?

Cheers.

:)

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Yoshimoto Enthusiast

Yoshimoto

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Nice one Sam youll love it  :thumbsup:

Spur as stock is 80 teeth and 48 DP,most run an 18t pinion but im running a 21t with a 10.5 B/L motor to give me an 8.17 Final drive ratio,well within its limits.

What motor are you running with what cells?

Yoshi

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Sam E Newbie

Sam E

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I'm loving everything about it so far. :thumbsup: I think I'm going to run a Novak SS 13.5 motor with a SP Gran Turismo 2.0 speedo and various 2s lipos. I'm trying to find either a cheap 10.5t locally or get a 10.5t Turnigy from Hobbyking.

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Yoshimoto Enthusiast

Yoshimoto

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Do yourself a favour and stay away from non sensored combos-high cs cars need as much fine modulation on throttle as you can get or they will be even more difficult to drive.

With a 13.5 motor you should be fine with anything up to 21 tooth on a stock chassis with average cells.Its worth actually counting the teeth on yours just incase of any changes in the production run-we dont want any meltdowns.... :yucky:

To give yourself peace of mind have a look for a final drive ratio calculator online and then use this with your motors suggested gearing.

Yoshi

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Yoshimoto Enthusiast

Yoshimoto

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Had a great set up session today  :thumbsup: running the new zero rear toe with some adjustment to the rear shocks.

Went out with the zero toe on the rear first off..one setting at a time-bit of a golden rule in my book...hmm quite liking it-more forward drive and a smoother transition from left to right,the previous 3 degrees seems to hang up the direction change at halfway as the toe tries to keep the car going straight,there was a slight hesitation at this point when running toe-not any more-i imagined that this would also lead to some instability in a straight line but this is not evident-the rear was noticeably more planted,pleasantly surprised  :yes:

One thing that was clear is the amount of steering inputs now required to keep it pointing in the required direction-i was using a lot more inputs to keep it held on course rather than throttle alone,not a greater angle of steering input just more tweaks to do the job-nothing frantic or too busy but a marked increase of steering use for sure.

I learned from a Finnish driver the other day that the D3 sport rear hubs actually have .5 deg toe built in,these OP hubs are a true 0 degrees,giving me a completely square rear end.

Next was a look at the overall rear grip-i had considered either shock angles or ballast so the shocks at the back were stood up one hole on the upper mounts first with no other changes added-the improvement was dramatic-the biggest improvement yet-im starting to really feel comfortable with the handling,not too much grip at the rear-never overwhelming the steering,just a lot more stability-less over shooting and a lot less skittish on my less than billiard table smooth tarmac test area-huge improvement  :thumbsup:

 

Weather permitting tomorrow ill be looking at the ESC profile again.the first time i looked at the esc set up i opted for the drift specific firmware profile,i had tested it indoors with the supplied modified profile but at this point i feel that its probably more suited to a higher grip surface than im currently running on.

At average speeds i rarely use more than 1/4 throttle and think that a change will allow better modulation,hopefully getting the throttle trigger nearer to 1/3 to 1/2 way for a better feel at average speeds.

I might achieve this with a swap of pinion-dropping from 21 to perhaps an 18 or 19,the 10.5 competition V3 motor is not lacking in speed,quite the opposite but i need some modulation/feel back into the mix if i want to move forward.

 

All in all a great sesh with real results,still buzzing about my new chassis  :yes:  :yes:  :yes:

 

Yoshimoto

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Yoshimoto Enthusiast

Yoshimoto

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Hello old friend...lent mine out a while ago-turns out hes lost parts of it etc...so a new one turned up today from a forum regular on here-brilliant  :yes:

Compared to the plastic seperates ive been using this is much more consistant and accurate.

Needless to say it wont be getting lent out again  :whistling:

The camber as set previously was at least 2 degrees higher than i had set on the other gauges and toe was way out.Spotted something interesting though,id measured the rear toe at zero with the new mount-turns out that my hubs have 1/2 a degree built in as per stock D3 sport.
 
Yoshimoto
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Yoshimoto Enthusiast

Yoshimoto

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Theres a new shell on its way too,i sold the Supra after a good bit of interest on FB-wasnt even trying to shift it,but i do like doing body's- went for another HPI-a Silvia S15-pretty good value,not the Vertex one though the other.

I really fancied the Pandora Nissan Sunny ( i had one as a lad and it was the best 90 quid 'rally car' i ever owned)  :yes: but the 38 quid hit with the risk of poor decals and dodgy paint adhesion has put me off.

 
Yoshimoto
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Sam E Newbie

Sam E

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I've joined the D3 Brotherhood group on FB and some of the cars on there like the silver and gold ones with horizontal shocks etc are really cool. I had my first go with mine last Friday just messing around in the hall our club pits in and the high CS really showed. I found that a few more steering corrections and a little more/less throttle helped a lot. My fun was cut short when the rear CVDs imploded because they weren't lock tighted when made. My fault for not checking but luckily the pins used to hold the hex in place fitted and it's ready for my next play. :)

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Yoshimoto Enthusiast

Yoshimoto

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Got another shell-HPI Silvia S15-its all cut and almost ready for paint.Ill be hiding the mounting points on this one but the chassis needs lowering al least 5mm to clear the spur gear....

Yoshi

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Yoshimoto Enthusiast

Yoshimoto

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This arrived today,R2 Hobbies must have been on the lash for at least 7 full days after Chinese new year but its here now.Had a bit of a blub over the new shell with the 1 degree rear toe as the rear wheels were 3mm further from the front-stretching the wheelbase to 260mm-it just diddnt look right,so ive gone back to 4 deg toe on the rear.

The diffuser fits inside the s15 body without any drama-not sure what effect it will make if any at the sort of speeds im doing but looks quite scale-if i do a shorter body in the future and have to trim it to fit-should look well   :yes:

Yoshimoto

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  • 1 month later...
Yoshimoto Enthusiast

Yoshimoto

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I havnt done much with this for a couple of weeks :xd: as nitros have been a welcome distraction while the tarmac has been damp  :deviltongue:  

Ive stocked up on paint while its been idle and also bought some more bits and bobs to add to the tuning arsenal,i couldnt resist a set of Ti turnbuckles-just because i could-a couple sets of springs...3R purple and blue's and some original alloy steering hubs too.

Although i can happily get 57 degrees from my outside wheel the ackerman differential cuts this by a good bit.The clone hubs are not the same as the stock plastic nor the OP alloy ones they are a completely different shape altogether and my wiper arms have some way to go before hitting the bulkheads while the steering hubs are already fouling the C-hubs-hopefully the new hubs will extract a suitable amount of lock whilst also dialing out the current high ackerman.It doesnt need more steering angle-afterall it is a throttle steered CS car-but ill not be happy until the ackerman is gone.

 

Paint....hmmm...

I had set my heart on pearl metal flake white-but after some drooling searching online,im really liking some of the 1/1 drift comp s15's in pink with black hoods-so ive also got some translucent pink to have a play with and see what i think-red is dead-blue is poo....think pink  :yes: 

 

Ive looked long and hard at some stealth body mounting systems too-I dont think im gonna be able to live with one  :xd: the clip type are a pain to line up,and the velcro or magnet types also need to be captured in some way really to get them either secure or positioned correctly time after time.

If i do go with no holes before paint and then dump the stealth system ill have a paranoid nightmare getting the shell marked up for a perfect fit-i dont think im brave enough-ill lose some scale looks but ill be confident that the shell is exactly where it should be-everytime i fit it.

If i rely on good old body posts at least i know where im at  :hahadance: i know...wimped it  :whistling: 

I should manage to get some of the colours laid on some test scraps in the next few days and make a final decision on the paint job,the hubs and springs wont be here for a week or so anyway so im going to take my time with the paint and post drillings for now.

 

Yoshimoto

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Yoshimoto Enthusiast

Yoshimoto

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Got the paint laid....Played with the translucent pink...it wasnt a winner,so pearl metal flake white it is.

Took the time to remove the outer decal from the front grill and air vents to make a very accurate set of masks-i think it looks very good and should accommodate a  radiator and oil cooler well.

The pics show the various coats-and the final ones are still with the overspray film fitted,so it quite difficult to catch the pearl metal flake effect.

i did toy with the idea of tinting the windows but im never happy with the finish.

the chrome for the light buckets was stunning at coat number two but come number three it had lost its lusture-again-maybe it will improve once the overspray film is off ???

The main color is 3 coats of Pactra pearl white,2 heavy coats of Fast Finish silver glitter,3 coats of tamiya PS1 white and 3 coats of Fast Finish Indy silver to top it all off.The hood took 3 coats of Fast Finish Jet black backed with 2 silver.

Up close it looks stunning-the masking lines were quite tight with only minimal bleed on the front and rear lamps(fiddly masks) that was removed with some Tamiya thinners before it was fully cured-very happy  :thumbsup:

 

Yoshimoto

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Yoshimoto Enthusiast

Yoshimoto

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Thats another shell done  :yes:

looks great in natural light and i dont feel it needs any more decals-i like the clean look.

i moved the front number plate today,just below where it is in these pics and it does look better.The light buckets have been left off for the time being as im not sure what im going to do with it long term.The shell is quite low profile and sits close to the spur gear at the front-originally i dialled lots more droop into it giving a softer front end and in turn more suspension travel but this completely cocked my front end handling up.Im trying to stay around 10mm ride height if i can but the shell doesnt sit slammed-I have today set the whole car up again with some testing to see if i can get a good compromise between looks and handling-but i think im going to have to face the fact that this S15 isnt the greatest fitting for my set-up.

 

Initial testing was a little frustrating as all my hard won handling and set up on the front was completely lost  :yucky: understeer was evident from the outset so the car has been on the bench for most of the evening.

While i was at it i rebuilt the shocks with different oil-45 at the rear and 15 front and have made some quite drastic adjustments to shock mounting positions and geometry.The front is now running 3 deg neg toe-same as the rear's 3 pos,0 camber and 3 deg neg camber on the back.

Ride height is bang on 10/10mm F to R.

 

More set up tommorow.For the time being im slurping coffee and admiring the new shell-the paint looks like liquid,i really like it  :yes:  :yes:  :yes:

With any luck the sun might shine too so i can try to get a good picture or two of the paint.

 
On another issue-i gave the shell its first wash today to remove some fingerprints and bench crud-be warned the spa silver paint contains actual metal particles  :yucky: and has left its mark on a couple of places inside on the windows  :shockingscary: where i inadvertently rubbed off some loose flakes.
Yoshimoto
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Yoshimoto Enthusiast

Yoshimoto

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Ok thats enough looking at it  :yes:

Put the new hubs on last night-lots more lock but still some ackerman no matter which holes i use in the wipers or hubs.

Had a 5 minute run on carpet with it and it was a lot more responsive to steering-hopefully this will translate to tarmac too.Ive left the new springs off for now to see what the overall set-up is like once back on the black stuff-dont want to get ahead of myself  :whistling:

Yoshimoto
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Yoshimoto Enthusiast

Yoshimoto

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New cell layout-the next steps...

Had a good sesh this morning but ive reached the limits of the chassis layout on these tyres.

The rear end was mercilessly softened up,to the point that it could go no further with the available shock angles-i think ive gone as far as i can with the cells in the forward position.

During todays testing the only changes made were rear camber back to 5 degrees and the rear shock angles-its time for a more fundamental change to the car.

Although big improvements have been made,i just cant get too excited with the rear end-on tarmac its just not as stable as it needs to be so today ive moved the cells to the rear position in the search for a more planted back end.

This layout mimic's the sport version and im hoping it will get the car even sweeter  :yes:

To suit the new weight distribution the rear shocks were stood up on the top mountings 2 holes,but as yet i havnt been able to test properly but the weight feels better in my hands but still with a front end bias.

Yoshimoto
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Yoshimoto Enthusiast

Yoshimoto

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Spent a full pack with the cells at the new rearward position-as per stock Sakura D3 CS Sport-quite surprised really,i was expecting to have to do some adjustments to the front end at the very least-not the case-understeer was not evident other than a little on off camber sections.

Forward drive is improved as well as rear end stability and the car changes direction a little more fluidly-well chuffed-ive not made any other adjustments today and the handling has been improved a great deal.

I do have some optional springs to play with if i see fit at some point,but its working really nice.

In all honesty i had set myself quite a task,setting the car up to work nice on any surface can be a chore but setting up for the sort of rough tarmac with varying camber that im driving on is probably one of the more challenging surfaces to deal with.

Im really getting to know the chassis now and feel i could probably get a decent set-up on any track-my set up bench has never seen so much use  :yes:

Heres the current settings,listed springs are the slightly shorter kit ones-kit tyres too.

 

CS Ratio-2.14

Pinion-21

Motor-10.5

AUW-1673g-fully laden with shell and battery

Shocks are F20w 1.2mm springs-2.5mm preload,R45w 1.1mm springs-0 preload-no internal limiting on any

Shock positions F4th in at top,R5th in at top and 3rd in at bottom

Steering is outer hole on wipers and inner on hubs

Droop arms level or just below F+R

Ride height 10mm F and 9mm R

Camber is F0 and R4

Toe F4 neg R3 pos

Cells at rear position

 

If your lucky enough to own one of these cars and your struggling with the set-up try these-im sure they would be a big improvement on any chosen surface over the stock settings  :thumbsup:

The change of cell position is a biggie though and well worth the minor effort to change from stock.

Yoshi 

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Colicab Newbie

Colicab

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Again been reading this thread with that much interest I`ve had to revive my old TT-01 drifter.

Nice car Yosh.

Might have to pick one up next time Ive got the $$$ :). There a lovely looking bit of kit and have a few options I don`t with the TT-01.

What tyres you use outdoors? Ive been on some T-Drifts but was a bit worried I was rubbing them down faster than I should be.

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Yoshimoto Enthusiast

Yoshimoto

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Thanks Colicab im loving my budget drifter-many call them as a cheap clone but ive learned that the alloy is 3Racings outsourced alloy rejected by 3 before engraving on the grounds that the anodizing isnt the correct shade for 3 Racing,its a little darker.

 

The tyres im using are the kit supplied one's they are the almost solid ones with very little give-i would rate them as medium hard compound as they fare very well on rough Tarmac.

I have used the T drifts also but they show high rates of wear as you have discovered and are only a thin carcass,but the supplied boots seem to work well on carpet,lino,wood and my chosen rough tarmac-all be it with a little chassis tuning to suit  :yes:

Yoshi

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  • 2 weeks later...
Diamondmaxx Rookie

Diamondmaxx

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Hi, I am a New user on this forum, & I have not got a Drifter in my collection of RC's.

 

This thread has done it for me, I need to make room for this such a model, I dont want the standard plastic model, Need the blinged out version, Not to sure on where to find out if Original or clone? But I suggest I look for the silver graphite chassis, is there much difference in price posted for clone & or oem 3racing product?  

 

Yoshimoto Would you mind PMing me the best links of where to buy? I can only thank you for all your info in this thread, It was a NICE read...

 

I dont mind a Clone, Aslong as its a good buy, & I dont have to shop for to many OEM products thereafter buying a clone...

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Diamondmaxx Rookie

Diamondmaxx

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Guys help me out, My heads hurting, Can I run a 5600kv (roughly 8t) 540 SENSORED Motor, OR is that Too high of a KV?

 

I am Also looking on a CHEAPO Sensored 60a 1/10 Esc, Either hobbyking Xcar or Turnigy 60 car

 

(BUT am unsure which to go for? They are around the same price, I can share links? BUT NOT sure if I am allowed to paste or view here as per forum rules?)

 

Please confirm...

 

I would like to have everything ready for when My build comes along....

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